New frustrating build in Arizona

I will let the pros weigh in but nothing looks correct in these images. The lower image shows waterline tile installed but you cannot see the gunite on the surface. It looks like the waterline tile is attached to dirt. The whole pool shell looks like it is at the same level as the surrounding yard. Should it not be at least a little above grade to drain water away from the pool? I thought that the waterline tile should be installed near the end of the build along with coping just prior to plaster.
 
LOL I'm always confused, but I still wanted to say, Hi Motocaptain, and Welcome to TFP, :wave:We're all really glad you're here.

I'm sorry your build is frustrating. Has there been a lot of issues since they started? Feel free to share your story, concerns, or ask any questions you have, and perhaps we can help.

I'm really looking forward to seeing more pictures as the build progresses. We love pics!!!

Again Welcome to TFP, and have a wonderful night. :)
 
Tile elevation is set at the high point of the bond beam. It is possible that in some places the top the tile will be higher than the top of the bond beam. They should fill in behind the tile with mortar before setting the coping. The reason is during forming or shooting the gunite the forms may shift. As a result the bond beam may not be perfectly level. On the other hand the tiles must be perfectly level or the water line will look odd.

In terms of grade, looks like they backfilled to the top of the bond beam. If you are using pavers, this is probably the proper elevation for the sand bed +field paver to meet the thicker 2" coping. If you are using a concrete deck it is more than likely too high. Some other things need to be considered at this point: Backfill will settle either through mechanical vibration or rain; some builders will backfill for safety or convenience and then set true grade later in the project; their may be some miscommunication between the builder, the excavation sub and the decking sub.

The only person who can accurately answer these questions is your builder.
 

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Yes grade is appx 2 below patio height concrete was poured and slopped towards drain at patio edge. Concrete / improper mix / bad batch / stamped too dry who knows was all torn out after a few days .. My pool is slowly going backwards in build .. Here's a pic of the tear out. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1444926501.284101.jpg



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Top of bond beam to top of patio = 2"? Or, 2" of slope (2" difference between top of patio and top of pool coping)?

What is the problem with the concrete in the picture? It is not clear from the picture. Who decided to tear out?

Generally concrete should be a minimum of 4" thick to prevent flex cracking and should have mesh or deformed bars to provide shear strength.
 
PB used 6 sack 3/8 slump no rebar , no fiber colored mix stamped ATTACH]43410[/ATTACH] concrete cracked around perimeter ..


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Yikes!! No wonder you are frustrated!! That's awful! Make sure you have EVERYTHING WELL DOCUMENTED!! You never know if you will need all of this for down the road...
hopefully, the PB will get it all worked out and provide you with a quality product.
 
The plumbing/electrical in the same trench pics in comment #16 are Not loading, but after seeing all the other problems on the other pics, I can just imagine.

Wow Moto. All those problems that you've had, I am so sorry.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they get all the issues resolved, and you get your pool built correctly very soon.
 

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