Adding E-Z Pool by the service company that closes the pool

[matali]

Hi,

We were maintaining the pool chemistry during summer by ourselves but we hire the company to close it on Friday.

They are planning to add E-Z Pool. I read some mixed opinions on this thing, but I don't have enough knowledge to draw the final conclusion. I would appreciate advice if it is ok to add this stuff, or if I should rather skip it/replace it or balance it by ourselves.

Thanks,
matali

 

[tim5055]

Itmis not a product we would recommend as it is a copper product. Here is a response to a similar question from 2009:

As shown here, it's a combo product, but does not contain a sanitizer:

Proper water care dictates the use of a sanitizing agent. E-Z Poolâ„¢ is not registered as a sanitizer with the E.P.A. It is, however, uniquely formulated for compatibility and use with minimum amounts of traditional sanitizer.

The EPA registration number for this product is 70131-1. The company that registered this product is Pure Pools, Inc. (formerly CDE Research) with some info here and here where the dba name is API (shown here) which is a marketing company. This link shows that the product contains copper sulfate, which is primarily an algaecide. This explains why they warn against using chlorinating liquid as a source of chlorine because they warn of the pH rising (which could have the copper stain pool surfaces). The product used to be called Chlor-Free (before 1997). It also may contain a linear quat as an additional algaecide and/or partial clarifier. The pH and TA Balance is probably just sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate. The only interesting unique part of this product is the oxidizer they are using that presumably lasts for 7 days. Most non-chlorine shock breaks down in a day or so.

[EDIT]In addition to the copper sulfate pentahydrate we know about from above, the LD50's from the MSDS is consistent with the ingredients ammonium chloride (produces monochloramine when reacting with chlorine so a temporary algaecide), aluminum sulfate (an alum floc), potassium persulfate (an irritating form of non-chlorine shock) and probably sodium bicarbonate. [END-EDIT]

If you want to properly sanitize your pool, then you still need to add chlorine with this product and that means daily addition unless you use "sticks" or tabs which are Trichlor as they suggest in which case you still get a buildup of CYA over time. At least you won't get algae, since you've got copper in the water, though need to be careful about staining.

Richard

If you are looking for an algecide, we remomend Polyquat 60

 

[matali]

Thanks!
Not sure if I need an algaecide, probably yes according to this steps (btw we didn't have problems with algae this summer):

Prep - Double check that the winter cover is still in good shape and that I still have enough water bags that don't leak to go all the way around the edge of the pool plus a few for spares. In the fall I let the water level drift down a little so it is closer to the bottom of the skimmer, instead of near the top where I keep it during the summer, this will save a little time latter.

Wait - I wait to close until the water temperature is solidly below 60 degrees. Below 60 degrees algae is fairly unlikely to grow and when it does it grows very slowly.

Balance - I bring PH to between 7.4 and 7.6 and make sure TA and CH are not too far out of line. This is generally easy as everything pretty much remains balanced all the time.

SLAM - Two or three days before closing, I bring the pool up to shock level and hold it there until FC holds overnight (which it generally does right off on the first night). Then I let the chlorine level fall about half way back to normal levels, typically another day and a half.

Time to close - Everything from here on is done in a single day. With two helpers it normally only takes an hour of work over two or three hours of time (draining takes a while).

PolyQuat - Add the startup (maximum) dose of PolyQuat according to package directions. I give it half an hour to mix with the pump running before starting to drain. While I am waiting for that I proceed with the next three steps.

But at first I need to slam it, right?

 

[tim5055]

Yes, it should be a quick SLAM if you have not had unusual chlorine demand and the water is clear.

 

[matali]

What do you mean by quick SLAM? (never done it)
And should I add algaecide?

 

[pabeader]

This link might help:

Pool School - Closing an In Ground Pool

 

[tim5055]

What do you mean by quick SLAM? (never done it)
And should I add algaecide?

Meaning that it will go quick. You should pass OCLT the first night. It's up to you on the algecide, but if you close after the water temperature is constantly below 60 (the colder the better) and you open next year before the water goes above 60 you should not need it.