Auto Pilot Startup Questions

[Steve456]

I am in the process of installing a Pool Pilot Digital. Perhaps Sean and other experienced users can help with a few questions. My current water chemistry is as follows:

FC 4
TA 70
CYA 30
CH 200
pH 7.5
Borates 50
Salt 3,000

1. I am bringing my CYA level up. My pool is in the shade most of the day. Should I aim for a CYA level of 60 or raise it even higher?
2. AutoPilot recommends a salt level of 2,500 to 3,500. What is the disadvantage of going perhaps to 4,000?
3. I am measuring the salt level using the AquaChek test strips. The AutoPilot manual says you should contact the factory for a salt calibration solution. Is this necessary or generally recommended? What is the cost?
4. The manual says to add 2 lb (0.9 kg) Sodium Bromide (NaBr) per 2,000 gallons (7.5 m³) of water. Is this for all pools or just pools that are to be purified by bromide?
5. How does the salt sensor work? Does it calculate the salt level based on amps, volts, and temperature?
6. The manual says to increase purifier levels add Potassium Monopersulfate shock. I have never heard of this type of shock. Why would this be recommended over bleach or even hypo?
7. What is Lo-Chlor Salt Cell Protector Plus? Is it magnesium? If your calcium is on the low side is it necessary? Should you first determine if you have a scale problem before you purchase this? I sure hope that this product is not important; I live in a rural area with few pool stores. The first three web stores I checked do not carry this product.

I will be purchasing PVC pipes and other supplies starting tomorrow so wish me luck.posting.php?mode=post&f=21#

 

[JasonLion]

1) The SWG will work most efficiently and last the longest if you bring your CYA level up to between 70 and 80.
2) Salt at 4,000 is alright, but there is no reason to go there.
3) Just use the strips.
4) Do not add Sodium Bromide. That section does not apply to you.
5) The AutoPilot units use a dedicated salt sensor, not the volts/amps reading. I don't know the exact technology.
6) Potassium Monopersulfate is really only appropriate for indoor pools.
7) You shouldn't need it. I don't believe that they say what it is, but we think it is magnesium. The only point in using it would be if your CH levels are very very high and you have no way to bring them down.

 

[Poolsean]

Jason is correct.

On some of your questions,
5. How does the salt sensor work? Does it calculate the salt level based on amps, volts, and temperature?
We're using conductivity across two points in the Tri-sensor. This is then calibrated/calculate to read salinity. It does compensate for temperature, but is not dependent on the cell amps and volts.
6. The manual says to increase purifier levels add Potassium Monopersulfate shock. I have never heard of this type of shock. Why would this be recommended over bleach or even hypo?
Monopersulfate falls in line with our statement of not having to buy "chlorine" anymore. However, ANY form of chlorine can still be used.
7. What is Lo-Chlor Salt Cell Protector Plus? Is it magnesium? If your calcium is on the low side is it necessary? Should you first determine if you have a scale problem before you purchase this? I sure hope that this product is not important; I live in a rural area with few pool stores. The first three web stores I checked do not carry this product.
This is a recommended maintainence product, and as Jason said, not necessary. For areas where you have a high tendency for scale formation, this will help. It's a proprietary blend so I can't confirm what it is.

Thanks,