I notice that since I started to increase my FC levels my CC has risen too. I though shocking/increase FC level would lower CC not increase it. My FC is now 14.5PPM and my CC is 1ppm. I started to raise my FC production in preparation for closing new weeks.
Can high levels of fc cause a cc increase?
- Thread starter RESISTENCIA13
- Start date
It just means that the higher FC has found something that needed oxidizing. Maybe some hidden algae in a light or step.
So should I use shock or Oxidizer? What is the difference anyways.....I have not shock for months (water is fine until now), but when I used to rely on pool store test, they were always selling me Oxidizer instead of Shock.
Neither, just hold steady for a day or so. The chlorine will take care of it. Make sure you have good sun exposure as much as possible.
BTW. You have no need for 'shock' or 'oxidizer' anymore. All you need is bleach/liquid chlorine. That's the beauty of TFP.
BTW. You have no need for 'shock' or 'oxidizer' anymore. All you need is bleach/liquid chlorine. That's the beauty of TFP.
Following our methods you never "shock" your pool. I have never shocked my pool
I believe you just have ordered your TF-100 kit this summer because of the issues that were occurring with CH. Can you please post a full set of results. When performing the test, please do the following:
I actually perform this test outside, as the CFL bulbs in the home do not produce the best lighting and my eye sight is better this way. If the pink color is extremely faint, please add another drop until completely clear. If I stop before doing this, I always register CC of .5, otherwise CC is 0. If you have CC that registers 0, then the color change to pink is very apparent when adding the 5 drops of R-0003. You do not have to put a lot of pressure on the R-0871, just enough where the drops are consistent and they fall off the tip. Pressure makes the drops move very quickly. If indeed, there is a CC of 1, then you will need to SLAM until you pass the 3 Tests before closing the pool.
Please keep us posted!
Extended Test Kit Directions
My test results the date my CC was high were as follows:
FC 9ppm
CC 1PPM
PH 8.4 PM
TA 75PPM
CH 500PPM
CYA 60
I will be performing another full panel test this week as soon as I receive reagent refill I ordered. I will post results once done.
FC 9ppm
CC 1PPM
PH 8.4 PM
TA 75PPM
CH 500PPM
CYA 60
I will be performing another full panel test this week as soon as I receive reagent refill I ordered. I will post results once done.
I hope you used some MA to lower the PH. That seems unusually high. It might be a good idea to to an overnight chlorine loss test. (OCLT)
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
I used PH test that comes with the TF-100. I know the highest tested level can only be 8.2, but based on the color being so red, I estimated 8.4. I tested again today and my number look better, but I am concern with my CSI? Can someone clarify how to read the CSI values as there is two sets numbers. I do not really understand what the 2nd set of number means as normally that is the target level, but I did not input this number. My results are as follows:
FC 30.5 (I am shocking just in case in preparation for closing this saturday)
CC 0
TA 75
CH 500
CYA 60 I think, I am still having problems as to when the black that is really gone or obscured.
CSI -0.36 Left side and -0.84 right side.
Per pool math there is potential to become corrosive to plaster. Is what I though to be stains corrosion? See attached picture.
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I did and it levels are lower now. See my previous post. FYI: My pool was built last years so I have battling PH all summer.
FC 30.5 (I am shocking just in case in preparation for closing this saturday)
CC 0
TA 75
CH 500
CYA 60 I think, I am still having problems as to when the black that is really gone or obscured.
CSI -0.36 Left side and -0.84 right side.
Per pool math there is potential to become corrosive to plaster. Is what I though to be stains corrosion? See attached picture.
- - - Updated - - -
I did and it levels are lower now. See my previous post. FYI: My pool was built last years so I have battling PH all summer.
None of the tests are designed for extrapolation of results once you get off the scale. Use 8.2 in Pool Math to calculate the amount of muratic acid needed and work from there. May times when you are off the scale you need to make additions several times until you get back on the scale.
I can't help with CSI.....I don't use it.
You need to get your pH down soon. You cannot test it accurately now because your FC is over 10 ppm.......that skews the pH test.
What you can do is Assume the value was 8.2 and set poolmath to calculate a dose down to 7.4. Even if your FC remains high, you can be fairly confident your FC is below 8.0 which is fine.
The other result that jumps out a little is the CH of 500. That's pretty unusual for the East Coast. What is the CH of your fill water?
You need to get your pH down soon. You cannot test it accurately now because your FC is over 10 ppm.......that skews the pH test.
What you can do is Assume the value was 8.2 and set poolmath to calculate a dose down to 7.4. Even if your FC remains high, you can be fairly confident your FC is below 8.0 which is fine.
The other result that jumps out a little is the CH of 500. That's pretty unusual for the East Coast. What is the CH of your fill water?
Question: TA could only be 70 or 80. Unless I am missing something from the TF-100 testing, you multiply by 10. Did you use a 25 ml. sample by chance or any other variation?
If you go back to Pool Math, and use the same figure for current (NOW) and Target, and adjust levels to 12 (50% of shock level based on CYA), PH to 7.5, TA to 80, CH to 500, CYA to 60, and Salt at 3400 with Temp. at 64*, your CSI range is -0.27 and -0.27. (Well within recommended ranges)
If you plug in the figures again in Pool Math, your CSI will change. Allow your FC to drop down to 50% of shock level before closing. Regarding your SWG, I am not familiar with levels (if they need to be adjusted before closing).
You can plug in different figures in Pool Math to see what ranges you are in for CSI. This will give you an idea on where you can/can not allow your levels to drift.
My fill water CH was around 175PPM. I started to use TF-100 this summer last year and when I opened I was using test strips. hence some users have suggested this may be the reason for my CH being high due to inaccurate testing and dosing.
You are right about the TA. I normally use half values whenever I am not sure of my drop counts. Can you explain how to read the CSI? I did the pool math and I get -0.27 and -0.84. What does the 2nd set of number referenced to?
I basically came to the conclusion that your CH levels were due to "calcium scaling" because your pool was new and there was not enough calcium in the pool, raising your levels. There is no other explanation besides testing error, but you are using the TF-100, so this is not the issue at this point. Over time, your CH will drop, especially with probably a bad winter here in NJ of snow and rain.
Do not plug in now and target numbers in, just current readings as I did in Pool Math to come up with the CSI. I would not put too much effort of what the figures mean, probably way beyond our knowledge as only a few forum members could answer this one. If your CSI is within ranges, then you are fine. Plug in the current testing figures and your CSI ranges will change. As I wrote previously " If you go back to Pool Math, and use the same figure for current (NOW) and Target, and adjust levels to 12 (50% of shock level based on CYA), PH to 7.5, TA to 80, CH to 500, CYA to 60, and Salt at 3400 with Temp. at 64*, your CSI range is -0.27 and -0.27. (Well within recommended ranges)", this is what you will have. That simple.
Your CSI changes to a higher level, almost over the normal levels based on water temperature dropping into the 30*'s, but I remember a post from other forum members stating that as the temperature drops, your PH rises. So if your PH would rise to 7.8, even at low water temperatures, you still are fine.
I wouldn't worry about the "target" field of the CSI. Just worry about the NOW field, as that is calculated based on all the other "now" entries you put in. Low pH will bring it down, high CH will bring it up, TA has some effect. Just be between -0.6 and +0.6 and you'll be fine (read the little description to the right of the target field.
Also, it's probably worth getting some salt test strips if you have CSI concerns. I was adding a lot of MA to keep my pH in the low to mid 7's, to counteract high CH in the fill water. After a year of liquid chlorine, I tested the salt and it's over 3000. Salt also lowers the CSI, so I'm able to keep the pH a little higher.
Also, it's probably worth getting some salt test strips if you have CSI concerns. I was adding a lot of MA to keep my pH in the low to mid 7's, to counteract high CH in the fill water. After a year of liquid chlorine, I tested the salt and it's over 3000. Salt also lowers the CSI, so I'm able to keep the pH a little higher.