New motor getting hot

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Unclenard

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Oct 3, 2015
30
Tampa, FL
I recently bought a house that has a 10' x 4.5' above ground pool that was installed in-ground. It has a Hayward Super II pump that had a replacement A.O. Smith 1hp motor that was having issues starting and then died. I got a new Hayward SPX1607Z1M 1hp motor to replace it. After the pump is on about 15 minutes the motor gets almost too hot to touch it. The water in the skimmer swirls strongly but doesn't appear to actually suck air in. The return line in the pool seems to be stronger than what the failing pump output before. The pressure gauge on the filter is reading about 15psi while it is running. It sounds like there is some air at the top of the filter while it is running. There is a very small amount of air in the basket of the pump while it runs. I don't think it is cavitating. I replaced the impeller when the old motor was still in as it was broke when I first tried running the equipment. The intake and return lines are 1.5" and the end of the return line has nothing to restrict flow.
Is the pump/motor too big for the lines? Should I get a smaller impeller? I haven't checked the voltage on the lines yet but will be.

Pictures of the pool and equipment can be seen here: Pool - Unclenard
 
Hot motor could be either a voltage or a cooling issue. It looks pretty clear around the pad, so probably no leaves blocking the vents. When the cover was installed on the electrical end of the motor, the vents were faced down correct? Look all around that end and make sure there isn't anything obvious blocking them.

I'm kinda leaning towards wrong voltage. I haven't dealt with a pool motor where this had happened. But there is 'jumper' or something inside the electrical connection area that will say something like 115/230 I'm guessing that you are supplying 220 but set to 110. Motor would spin a little faster, maybe, but would be using the wrong windings and heat up like crazy.

Please be sure power to the motor is off at the breaker before you look into that.
 
Thanks for the response. No debris around the motor and the vents are pointing down. The old motor was set to 115 so I set the new one to that too. I'll check the voltage at the box to verify what is being supplied. I did just notice the it almost sounds like cavitation at the skimmer. If I open the skimmer door all the way it does swirl fast enough to suck in air too.
 
water has no effect on the motor. You can run the thing dry and the motor will not care. The pump will, but not the motor. Now if there is something stuck in the impeller, or something stopping the motor from getting to full speed, that will effect the motor heat. It is possible that the jumper is incorrectly labeled. But I doubt it would run at all if the jumper was set wrong for 230 and 110 were applied.
 
duraleigh said:
I don't know what that means. The weir (flapper) door on a skimmer should always be open. Help me understand.
Click to expand...

The flapper opens but doesn't lay down all the way. I was pushing it down flat to allow more water to flow thru to see what would happen.

ewkearns said:
Problem 1 - From the video, I'd say you have a pretty massive air leak, probably at or near some place associated with the motor repair.

Problem 2 - The possibility that you have the wrong motor!
Click to expand...

This is the motor that I got. Amazon.com : Hayward SPX1607Z1M Motor Replacement for Select Hayward Pump, 1 HP MAXRATE MOTOR : Swimming Pool And Spa Supplies : Patio, Lawn Garden
 
The following is from your Amazon link. I don't know what this means, exactly, but the general direction it is taking is not comforting:

[h=4]"Item Under Review[/h] While this item is available from other marketplace sellers on this page, it is not currently offered by Amazon.com because customers have told us there may be something wrong with our inventory of the item, the way we are shipping it, or the way it's described here. (Thanks for the tip!)
We're working to fix the problem as quickly as possible."
 

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ewkearns said:
The following is from your Amazon link. I don't know what this means, exactly, but the general direction it is taking is not comforting:

"Item Under Review

While this item is available from other marketplace sellers on this page, it is not currently offered by Amazon.com because customers have told us there may be something wrong with our inventory of the item, the way we are shipping it, or the way it's described here. (Thanks for the tip!)
We're working to fix the problem as quickly as possible."
Click to expand...

I noticed that when I went to get the link to it. I've contacted Amazon to see what exactly the issue is. Tomorrow I'll take the pump apart to check the gaskets again.
 
So Amazon's response was that it was under review because "Customer Issue: The customer keeps receiving the 1 hp instead of the 1-1/2 horse power". I did notice that in the reviews. But the listing is for a 1 HP motor so I guess that person just can't read.

 
JamesW said:
What part number was the impeller? Most likely, it's too big for the motor.
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I pulled out my receipt from Pinch-A-Penny who I had replace the impeller. They did put in the wrong one. I just assumed they would know which one to put in since I gave them the exact model number off the pump SP3007X10AZ. According to Hayward's manual for the pump it should have impeller SPX3007C. Pinch-A-Penny put in SPX3010C instead. I ordered the correct impeller and a gasket set figuring it wouldn't hurt to replace them too.

THANK YOU!

After I get it and see how it goes I'll reply back.
 
In some cases, the wrong impeller can physically not fit right and rub. However, that's not the case here. An oversized impeller tries to move too many gallons per minute, which increases the power consumption. If the total power is more than the pump is designed for, the pump will overheat.
 
JamesW said:
In some cases, the wrong impeller can physically not fit right and rub. However, that's not the case here. An oversized impeller tries to move too many gallons per minute, which increases the power consumption. If the total power is more than the pump is designed for, the pump will overheat.
Click to expand...
Overheating the motor is bad for the motor windings and can breakdown the insulation on the winding wire causing damage to the motor.

Dom
 
So my assumption that it was trying to pump too much water was correct I guess. I think after getting this running properly again I'll read the guides on maintaining the chemicals correctly myself with a test kit. I've lost trust in Pinch-A-Penny and wonder if they are having me add chemicals I don't really need just to make a buck. Great community here, thanks to everyone for a the quick replies.
 
Unclenard said:
So my assumption that it was trying to pump too much water was correct I guess. I think after getting this running properly again I'll read the guides on maintaining the chemicals correctly myself with a test kit. I've lost trust in Pinch-A-Penny and wonder if they are having me add chemicals I don't really need just to make a buck. Great community here, thanks to everyone for a the quick replies.
Click to expand...
That is the core of our principles here, knowing exactly what your pool needs, and only adding exactly what your pool needs.

There are two test kits we recommend, the Taylor K2006, or the TF Testkits TF-100. I own the K2006, but if I had known of the TF-100 I would have purchased that instead. I quickly went through the small bottles of reagent, making the Taylor kit more expensive in the long run.

Be sure to have a read through Pool School, especially The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry & the topics in Pool Chemistry.

I maintained my pool this season with TFPC, nothing but liquid chlorine regularly and a bit of CYA. I'm lucky that my pH is very stable, but I have a very simple pool with no water features or other pH issues.

Dom
 

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