Need help with green pool

[egles]

I just bought a house with a pool two weeks ago. When I first saw the house the pool was crystal clear and now when I moved in, it is green. Two weeks ago I knew nothing about pool or pool care, but now I'm start to understand a little. One thing I know is that the local pool store chemicals cost a lot of money and my pool is still green. It is already starting to cool down here in Wisconsin, and all I want to do is clean this pool up so that I can close it down for the winter. This is what has been done so far...
When I first got the water tested it was low on everything and there was no chlorine in it.
So I put in some Lo and Slo.
Then put in Algeaside
Then I put in Burn Out (chlorine shock)
Then I put in Power Floc
Then I was suppose to wait and then vacuum
I waited and vacuumed, but I think I vacuumed to fast and spread it around.
Then the chlorine got low again and I put more burn out in.
I went back to the pool store and there was no chlorine in the water and was told to get more chemicals
So now I put in balance 100 to raise the alkalinity, which I think was incorrect because the normal pool store guy wasn't there and the replacement didn't know anything. After checking again the alkalinity was too high, which would explain why the next step was to add more Lo and Slo which lowers Alkalinity and PH.
I think the PH close to where it should be, then I added 3lbs of burn out (shock). I'm skipping the recommended redoes of algaecide because I think the aglea is dead from the first dose and it costs $43 a bottle.
After reading more, I've decided my best approach is to shock the heck out of this water and let it settle again for vacuuming. And during the shocking I need to keep the PH correct so the chlorine works.
I'm also considering using liquid bleach instead of this burn out stuff based on what I've been reading.

My goal here is to just close this pool down for the winter. I'm getting close to the point where I'm going to drain it and turn it into a sandbox for the kids. Please advise me on the best way to get this pool clear and then winterize it. I've already bought a bioguard winterizing kit, but everything says I should have a clear pool before using it. I still consider myself pool dumb, so please help me with easy to understand guidance. Thank you.

 

[MarianParoo]

Oh lord. A pool $tore nightmare! Are you willing to wait on you closing until you can get a recommended test kit? The TFtestkits or K-2006?

 

[LFrankow]

Well you surely have come to the right place for sure, these people have helped me keep my pool crystal clear for cheap for the last four years. A good test kit is the right place to start, also start reading the pool school section. I am sure one or more the pro's here will be along shortly.

 

[pabeader]

A picture can speak volumes so here you go. This is just one of many, many pool this group has helped get from green to clean.

 

[Catanzaro]

Oh lord. A pool $tore nightmare! Are you willing to wait on you closing until you can get a recommended test kit? The TFtestkits or K-2006?

Please do not listen to the Pool Store and only to the members on this forum. A test kit is the first priority. While you are waiting for the kit, you can add a gallon of liquid chlorine (bleach 8.25%) with the filter running to keep the "algae" in check. Everyone here will help you clear up the pool, although we will need accurate testing results done by yourself. Pool Store's blindly recommend throwing in chemicals and try everything on the shelf and continue to sell you "stuff" you do not need. I have seen people go out and spend months trying to clear their pool and spend between $500-$750 in chemicals before finally giving up and coming to TFP.

Please stock up on a lot of bleach and possibly purchase a gallon of Muriatic Acid as you PH may have to be lowered during the SLAM. Have to run, but everyone is here to help. Welcome to TFP! This is how you will be taking care of the Algae!

 

[kimkats]

Hugs! I have a sad for you.....................the pool store got to you before we could save your money $43 a bottle??????? OUCH!

BUT never fear! TFP is here! Like Bob showed you we CAN show you how to clear your pool.

As you have found the pool store testing is NOT good. Even the "regular" guy will not be as good as YOU will be when you get your own test kit.

With your pool being green you are going to need to order the TF-100 XL so make sure you have enough testing stuff to get you to a clear pool.

I KNOW the last thing you want to do right now is spend more money on your pool but................think of it as an investment to get to a clear pool.

Once you get your test kit let us know and we can walk you through how to get your pool clear just like in that pool Bob showed you!

Kim

 

[egles]

I'll order a test kit today. I did a test strip this morning and have the following
free chlorine 10+, ph 7.8ish ( hard to tell, but I think it's high), alkalinity 120-180, stabilizer 50-100. I see one recommendation of tf-100 XML test kit, is that the one to buy? Looking through the pool chemicals and spare parts I found an AquaChem kit that has several tester chemicals in it.

 

[ScottCh]

I think most folks here would highly endorse the TF-100, I know I do! Since your pool is green the XL option would definitely be a good investment.

 

[Texas Splash]

Definitely the TF-100. Contains all Taylor reagents, just larger quantities. More bang for your buck. Don't forget to ask for the speed stir! Mix like a pro. Makes a big difference.

 

[kimkats]

You will need the TF-100 XL as you will end up having to order more test stuff before you are through clearing up your pool. Might as well get what you need from the start.

Kim

 

[egles]

What am I looking to test with the tf100? I found an aqua chem test kit and I'm hoping I can start the pool healing with what I have while I wait for the other test kit. What steps should I being now? I just tested the water and chlorine is still 10+ and the ph was high. I added 3/4 lb lo and slo (sodium bisulfate) to lower ph. Also I think my water level is low since my pump only kicks out water every other minute unless if I release the air out of the pump cover. Should I put more water in? I don't want to since I want to winterized. Would it be so bad to winterized a green pool?

 

[pabeader]

That's a though call. You need more water to fix it, that's a given. If you put it away in the current condition you risk staining, a weakened liner, possible damage to pump and other stuff. Then when you open in the spring, you get to deal with who knows what. I would seriously consider fixing it now and then winterizing.

- - - Updated - - -

To answer your first question. You need a reliable test of the CYA level. Without it you can't even really start the SLAM process.

 

[egles]

I believe the test kit has a CYA tester, I'll try to get that done and post the reading. Based on the dip sticks, it says the stabilizer is ideal... and from what I've read I think they are the same thing.
My current plan is to add more water to my pool to get the return jet running faster. I plan to check the chlorine level again tomorrow (24+ hrs after shocking) and if it is still high, I'll shut the pump down and see if the green algae settles to the bottom after a day or two. If it settles, I'll vacuum to waster (slowly) and then winterize the pool. I'm racing against the weather a little bit since we're already starting to get a little bit of frost over the nights. If this plan sounds like a bad idea please let me know because I really don't know what I'm doing.

 

[kimkats]

Here at TFP we do not "shock" one time and call it good.

The whole idea is to get and KEEP the chlorine at a high enough level to kill the algae. It takes time and chlorine.

Kim

 

[egles]

Alright, I've ordered the TF-100 XL with Speedstir, should be here in 3 to 5 days. When it comes in, what should I do with it? One additional note, is that this is a salt water pool, even though I cannot run the chlorinator anymore because the pool temp is below 60 degrees. My hope is to get the salt water chlorinator up and running next spring. Another concept that I've been reading about is the BBB method... not sure what that is though.

 

[pabeader]

BBB is the root of TFPC. It was renamed because folks were often buying stuff that they really didn't need.


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[pabeader]

Use each part of it to get your current levels and post them here. Together we'll go from there to get it right.


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[MarianParoo]

Congrats on the test kit. You could always add the salt test for your SWG.

Go to Pool School at the top of this page, then go to ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry. It will get you started in understanding how we think.

 

[LFrankow]

Before you get your testkit, do a bit of reading on how to use it, paying particular interest on how to save reagents.
once you get it, do 3 tests post an average score, most important numbers being;
PH, FC and Cya
Also read up on the SLAM process
Your water is less then 60 degrees it should go quickly, as algae growth is slowed down a lot.
We just got the killing frost up here in Alberta last monday, I have my pumps timed to run from 5 am to 8 am, coldest time of the day still no freeze up, water moves it doesn't freeze.
SWG schedule that in for next year for sure.

 

[MarianParoo]

You are in great hands here! You were wondering what you could do now... We are hesitant to recommend much until we get YOUR results. We may have some ideas, but we don't trust "guess" strips nor pool $tore tests.

You should always release air out of your pump basket. If there is little to no air in there, you're golden. Does it get air often? If so, please provide details.