SWG Not Maintaining Cl

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txreap

txreap

0
Gold Supporter
Apr 29, 2009
84
Austin, TX
Pool Size
19500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Howdy from TX. Been struggling with pool for last 3 months. Had black spots in July, got rid of those by adding 25 lbs of granular shock per Leslie's. Can't argue with results, black spots gone in 4-5 days. Since then have reduced CYA by removing/adding H2O. Current Leslie's test results:
FC 0
TAC 0 (added 2ga of liquid chlorine 2 days ago)
Salt 2700 (added bag today)
CH 260
TA 110
pH 7.8 (added 30oz today)
Cu 0
Fe 0
Phosphates 300 (I know, who cares)
Spa attached to pool, spills over into main pool area

Hayward/Goldline Controls SWG, but replaced motherboard last year with aftermarket version. Chlorine has been my struggle all summer. Can't seem to get pool consistent. Can't figure out what to do about the constant zeroing of TAC/FC. Suggestions? Any & all help appreciated! Thanks!
 
Welcome to TFP!

A one time addition of chlorine will not normally kill All of the algae. I'm betting you are still harboring a low level amount of algae that is consuming your chlorine.

Check out the Pool School (link above) and read two articles

How to perform an OCLT

How to SLAM your pool

Stay away from pool stores for testing, they are notoriously wrong. Get your own quality test kit and take control!
 
Hi txreap.
two things consume chlorine, organics and UV from the sun.

CYA protects the FC from the sun as well as can be.
If you dont keep your FC in the proper ratio with the CYA though, then it wont be high enough to fend off consumption by organics. My gut tells me, that if you are algae free, and keep your FC in the proper range, then you wont have this problem.

Like Tim suggests, get yourself a proper test kit (either the TF-100 or K2006), and do your own testing.
The Overnight Chlorine Test is the tell all when it comes to organics. If you loose more than 1ppm overnight, there is something somewhere consuming your chlorine.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Pool School - Recommended Levels
 
All, thanks for the feedback! #1, will order K2006 today online. Due to Leslie's reported CYA level yesterday of x40, added 4 lbs conditioner and 2 bags of chlor-brite shock. PoolMath suggested 6 lbs of conditioner, since I also need Cl, I added the chlor-brite. Today's SWG readings:

Running Pump 13 hrs/day, with SWG at 85%, T-15 cell.

Salt 3100
1. 85
2. 31.3
3. 0
4. 8P
5. -0
6. 88
7. r8.8 (aftermarket motherboard)

Today self-testing results are Cl ~2.5, TA 110, pH ~7.6. My current test kit doesn't really differentiate between FC & TAC. To me there is no color change while allowing the Cl test to sit for several minutes. Thanks again for your help!
 
I wouldn't add any more stabilizer until you get a good test kit that gives an accurate reading. If you have to SLAM (likely if you are losing chlorine and had some previous algae- the black spots) it will make it harder with higher CYA.
 
All, thanks for the feedback! #1, will order K2006 today online. Due to Leslie's reported CYA level yesterday of x40, added 4 lbs conditioner and 2 bags of chlor-brite shock. PoolMath suggested 6 lbs of conditioner, since I also need Cl, I added the chlor-brite. Today's SWG readings:

Running Pump 13 hrs/day, with SWG at 85%, T-15 cell.

Salt 3100
1. 85
2. 31.3
3. 0
4. 8P
5. -0
6. 88
7. r8.8 (aftermarket motherboard)

Today self-testing results are Cl ~2.5, TA 110, pH ~7.6. My current test kit doesn't really differentiate between FC & TAC. To me there is no color change while allowing the Cl test to sit for several minutes. Thanks again for your help!
 
I second the thought of holding off on more stabilizer until,you get a test kit and verify your numbers. The chlor-brite shock is dichlor and it containes a lot of stabilizer itself. I would recommend only using the SWG or liquid products.

I would also recommend the TF-100 over the K-2006 for two reasons. First, it's more bang for the buck. K-2006 kits come in sizes denoted by a letter at the end. The K-2006C is the closest to the TF100 and it usually runs over $100. Secondly, the TF100 sales help support this site.
 

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It seems that your percentage is stuck at 8 percent. That could explain the low chlorine output.

Try going to the percent setting and move the dial. If the displayed percentage does not change, then the display board might be bad or just not making good contact.

If it does not change, try this. Turn off power to the unit and remove the front cover. Remove the display board and reset. If that does not work, try removing and spraying the display board with electronics cleaner. Allow the cleaner to fully evaporate and then reinstall the board. If that does not work, then you might need a new display board.

The non Hayward main board might also be the problem as it is probably of a lesser quality.
 
Thanks JamesW. When I played with it this morning, I was able to see it go further down to 5P. When I changed it to Super Chlorinate, it changed to 100P. I left it at 100P for today. Will try removing/reinstalling the display board this evening. In '10, the entire control unit was flooded due to hurricane Hermine. Eventually the main board failed. There is some rust under the dial switch on the board, so it's probably corroded underneath. If anyone has a part number for the board level component, I'll try swapping it out for $4-5 the part might cost at Digi-key.
 
Received TF-100 today and just finished testing. Results:

_____10/1___________10/2
7pm_______9pm____OCLT 7am
Cl 5.0
pH 7.35
FC 3.5_____ 3.0_____3.5 (9pm filter off, 7am filter on)
CC 0.5_____ 1.5_____1.0
CH 700
TA 120
CYA 50_____________50

Cl is where it is b/c I added 1GA this morning since I know my SWG Display Board percentage not working and wasn't sure if test kit would arrive today.
CA appears high, no evidence of scaling at waters edge. I have recently replaced water by at least 30%, and live in an area with heavy limestone base. No scaling history in 10 years, so I am not sure if action is required. Bottom of pool does have brownish tint along curved side bottoms. Update after orig post: CSI on Pool Math shows 0.15 & -0.49, so I am ok, right?
TA definitely high, I have added MA nearly every day this week in declining quantities (1 pt yesterday, 0 today). Will continue to do so unless strong opinions otherwise to reduce TA.

Will wait to take any further actions until I get some confirmations on approach. However, I will perform the OCLT since I am in a good position to do so. Thanks in advance for your feedback!

PS> I had added 4 lbs of stablizer and 2 lbs of Leslie's chlor-bright on 9/27.
 
Last edited:
JamesW said:
It seems that your percentage is stuck at 8 percent. That could explain the low chlorine output.

Try going to the percent setting and move the dial. If the displayed percentage does not change, then the display board might be bad or just not making good contact.

If it does not change, try this. Turn off power to the unit and remove the front cover. Remove the display board and reset. If that does not work, try removing and spraying the display board with electronics cleaner. Allow the cleaner to fully evaporate and then reinstall the board. If that does not work, then you might need a new display board.

The non Hayward main board might also be the problem as it is probably of a lesser quality.
Click to expand...

JamesW, Received new Hayward Display board. Percentage now reflects whatever dial is pointing at. Thanks! Do I need to join/start a new thread to get feedback on my TF-100 results posted 10/1 & 10/2 as part of this thread?
 
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