Is PH too high to Close 8.0

[rjg202]

I thought my PH was high so I confirmed with Pool store. I have not done anything to my pool this year other than 12.5%, shocked twice with 12.5% and a few pucks on vacation.

I was going to close this weekend if the wind settles down. Just wondering if I should be concerned with the PH level? Otherwise I would have just closed.
Thoughts?

FC 3.4
Tot CL 3.4
CC 0.1
PH 8.0
Hardness 170
Alkalinity 50
CYA 10
Copper 0.08

Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

Definitely bring it down if you're sure that reading is correct. Problem is here at TFP we don't' rely on store testing for many reasons, but if that's all you have right now, shoot for a target of 7.2 with muriatic acid. You'll want it there before your raise your FC level in preparation for closing. Your low CYA and FC level are also concerning, but again, without your own (proper) test it's hard to tell (oops, you DO have the right test kit). You might like see this page as well: Pool School - Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool.

Good luck!

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Sorry - you DO have a TF-100. Uhg. I didn't read carefully. sorry.

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You might also want to add some stabilizer to get you to the 30 target before closing, just so it's in there during the winter.

 

[Richard320]

What test kit measures CYA down to 10?

 

[rjg202]

I just ran my #'s with TF-100 Kit

My PH looks about 7.8. I am bad at shades of red which is why I went to Pool Store. My numbers are close except my FC is .6 higher, CC is 0 they had .1, TA exact, CH I was 30 lower. That could be my error as I see the color change, and if I add another drop and it don't change much I use the count prior.

They also said I have .08 ppm copper, any reason for concern?
TF-100 numbers

FC 4
CC 0
TA 50
CH 140
CYA This is low I pretty much fill the tube and can slightly see the dot. I ran the test twice. I keep my FC around 3-4 since I kept my CYA low this year and had no issue. My CYA in the past was off the chart and when that was the case I had a couple bouts of algae, which I have not seen in the last 2 years.

Anyway if my Pool store is Closed, does the HTH stuff WalMart sells to lower PH accomplish the Same? Looking at the Calculator to Drop from 7.8 to 7.2 PH it says to add muriatic or dry acid. I don't think they have stabilizer. Otherwise I can try to get to the store tomorrow.



I think I will wait a week and close.

 

[Texas Splash]

That's some good info to know. Since you probably want to close soon and be done with everything, hopefully we can try to help in some way. Perhaps just do the following:
- Little to no CYA (black dot never disappeared) is a concern for your liner right now as you prepare to close. Next to no CYA makes the chlorine extremely strong, so I would still recommend adding some stabilizer via the sock method with a target of about 30ppm. Just let the sock hang near a return jet - easy stuff. Wal-Mart should have the granular stabilizer (purple HTH) for about $16 4lb container.
- Your FC of 4 is fine right now since you have no CYA, but when you get ready to close, you'll be able to go higher with your final SLAM/Shock level.
- pH ... I have the same problem sometimes with the comparator blocks. But you do need it lower than 7.8. I would suggest 7.2-7.4. Closer to an orange color. Remember, never add bleach and acid at the same time; 30 min apart from each other with the pump running. You can get acid from Lowes/Home Depot (paint section - blue label), or their pool sections.
- As for the copper, that is a bit high. Curious, is your fill water from a well, or did you ever use an algaecide in the past perhaps?
Let us know if you have any more questions and we'll try to help to make your closing as easy as possible.

 

[rjg202]

I put poly 60 in when I close. Pool store says to put full bottle in but instructions say 16 oz for 10,000 gallons. I have city water. They told me today the .08 was negligible for copper since it is under .3 ppm.

I will pick up the stabilizer and acid tonight. For about 10-11000 gallons should I put the full 32 oz of poly 60 in, what do you think? I have done it for the last few years. Pretty much I dump a bottle of that in and a gallon of 12.5%. According to pool calculator based on 10,000 gallons 123 oz will get me to shock level of 16 from 4. So that sound right.

One thing I don't follow and I have not had issues. Is when I add the Poly 60 I walk around the pool and pour it in and let the filter run on recirculate. Same for the Chlorine. I was told by store to drop water level and then add poly 60 and chlorine and don't circulate.

Thoughts on that?

 

[Texas Splash]

Nothing wrong with adding the Polyquat after you've lowered the water. You just have to mix manually as best as you can. But our closing instructions recommend letting the higher FC level mix real well for 24 hours before shutting it down. So I would run the bleach through for a day, then allow that FC to drop halfway down from the SLAM level before adding the Poly. You don't want to add Poly at the full SLAM FC bleach strength or it can breakdown the Poly and reduce its effectiveness.

 

[pabeader]

rjg202 - Something that might help with the pH test is to place a piece of paper behind the comparator. Try different colors of paper, you should find one that makes the differences easier to discern. For red colors you might want to try a shade of blue or even green.