Signed contract last night, deposit paid!

Been testing in a regular basis with my Taylor 2006. Free chlorine- 3.0, CC-0, pH-7.4ish. I haven't fired up the SWG, probably wait till spring. I have been adding acid about every 3 days to manage the pH. CYA is at 60. Everything going good so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Been testing in a regular basis with my Taylor 2006. Free chlorine- 3.0, CC-0, pH-7.4ish. I haven't fired up the SWG, probably wait till spring. I have been adding acid about every 3 days to manage the pH. CYA is at 60. Everything going good so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your FC is too low for a CYA of 60ppm. Your minimum value (really a floor value you should not cross) is 5ppm. Temperatures are low now so little will grow at an FC of 3ppm but it's good practice to maintain the proper FC level.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
Your FC is too low for a CYA of 60ppm. Your minimum value (really a floor value you should not cross) is 5ppm. Temperatures are low now so little will grow at an FC of 3ppm but it's good practice to maintain the proper FC level.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006

Thanks for the tip. Adjusted my FC to 5. Will monitor daily. My biggest issue right now is maintaining pH. I'm adding acid almost every 3 days to keep the pH down. Hopefully this will start to level off as the interior cures.

I have decided to wait till March 1 to fire up the swg. So I'll be using chlorine until then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the tip. Adjusted my FC to 5. Will monitor daily. My biggest issue right now is maintaining pH. I'm adding acid almost every 3 days to keep the pH down. Hopefully this will start to level off as the interior cures.

I have decided to wait till March 1 to fire up the swg. So I'll be using chlorine until then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, your new plaster is curing and will be a source of acid demand for a long time. For some, it can take almost a year before the acid demand starts to level off. During the winter months when the water is cold, let the CSI remain in the positive range (0 to +0.1). You're really in no danger of scaling and keeping the CSI a little on the positive side will help keep acid usage to a minimum. Also, if you have any water features (I think you have some sheer waterfalls or deck jets and bubblers?), stop using them or minimize their use as much as possible. Aeration of the water will cause your pH to rise very quickly and add to frequent acid additions. Once you start using the SWG, it too will add to the aeration of the water and cause upward pressure on your pH. So expect to use a lot of acid in the near future.

If you post a new series of test data (include CH), I can try to see if there's anything that stands out to me.
 
Yes, your new plaster is curing and will be a source of acid demand for a long time. For some, it can take almost a year before the acid demand starts to level off. During the winter months when the water is cold, let the CSI remain in the positive range (0 to +0.1). You're really in no danger of scaling and keeping the CSI a little on the positive side will help keep acid usage to a minimum. Also, if you have any water features (I think you have some sheer waterfalls or deck jets and bubblers?), stop using them or minimize their use as much as possible. Aeration of the water will cause your pH to rise very quickly and add to frequent acid additions. Once you start using the SWG, it too will add to the aeration of the water and cause upward pressure on your pH. So expect to use a lot of acid in the near future.

If you post a new series of test data (include CH), I can try to see if there's anything that stands out to me.

Ok just test result from today

FC- 2.8
CC- 0
pH- 7.6
TA- 90
CH- 180
CYA- 45

FC was at 4 on the 26th. Thinking i need to add stabilizer????

Josh
 
Ok just test result from today

FC- 2.8
CC- 0
pH- 7.6
TA- 90
CH- 180
CYA- 45

FC was at 4 on the 26th. Thinking i need to add stabilizer????

Josh

You don't need stabilizer, you need to add bleach. About 95 oz of 8.25% regular clorox will get you back up to 6ppm FC. 4ppm FC is your floor value, don't go below that. Right now the water is cold and the sun is low in the sky so the UV incidence on the water is minimal. You have plenty of CYA for a bleach pool. Also, don't try to thread the needle on the CYA reading as the scale is logarithmic. If it's between 40 and 50, just call it 50ppm. It's always better to ere on the side of caution (high side) with CYA as it is easy to increase but costly to decrease.

Your CH is a bit low for hard AZ water, but it won't stay that way for long. If I assume your water temps are similar to mine (~50-55F), then your CSI is a bit too negative, CSI = -0.34. Your pH is 7.6 and that's actually kind of low for a cold winter pool. If you let your pH come up to 7.8, then your CSI drops to ~ -0.14 which is balanced. You could even let it get as high as 8.0 and you would barely be above 0 for your CSI.

Given your new plaster, you should NOT try to drop your pH lower than 7.6. 7.8 would be a preferable pH for now and, if you let it rise to 8.0 before adding any acid and only add enough acid to get it down to 7.7-7.8, you will find that your acid additions should stretch out a bit longer. Going from 8.0 to 7.7 only requires about 13 fl. oz. of muriatic acid and it is very likely that addition will last several days.

Cheers,
Matt
 
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