New build, Tampa, FL

Jump to latest Follow Reply
M

mark111

0
Sep 15, 2015
5
Tampa, FL
Hi Everyone,

We are starting a new pool, the details are in my signature. So far everything is going well. The excavation took a little longer because the ground was really wet and the water table is high (we live on a dredged island). The walls kept collapsing in as they were digging and then the builder ran into an abandoned, rusted out sewer pipe that was pouring water into the hole as they were digging, acting sort of like a french drain. The rebar looks to be about half done. I have a few questions.

The builder wants to use 1.5" pipe for the returns, should I insist on 2"?

Should the skimmer be plumbed with 2"? I looks like the main drains are plumbed with 2.5"

There is a 1.5" pipe in the middle of the spa. I think that will be the spa suction line. Is 1.5" big enough?

I asked for 12" of water on the sun shelf. I measured 26" from the top of the 2X4 form to the dirt in that area. Does that seem too deep?

Is the transition to the deep end too close to the deep end?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Mark




rebar.jpg


pool1.jpg
 
sunshelf--------the gunite will add quite a bit of height but I am not sure it will be that much. I would ask the PB to come out and go over just how the rebar people measured to put the rebar at the height they did.

NOW is the time to take care of any problems like this. GOOD JOB! Do NOT let him say "oh they know what they are doing" Make him show you what is what with a measuring tape.

Kim
 
Gunite is approximately 6 to 9 inches thick ( should be a minimum of 6). The water level is also 5 to 6 inches below the coping height - so that should also be considered is calculating overall height of water in that area.

Spacing between rebar mesh should ideally be 8 inch squares at the maximum and even lower ( 6 inches) for areas expected to be stressed more ( like unsupported retaining walls, etc)

I would suggest insisting on the 2 inch pipes and ensuring that it is a minimum of Schedule 40 ( defines thickness of pipes). However, pipe size should not be looked as an individual component - the whole hydraulics system ( pumps, pipes, filter size, number of bends, etc ) has to be designed to match everything else...just having big pipes is not necessarily a good thing.

Mark - would love to see the overall design - it looks to be quite interesting.
 
So, I believe the top of your form likely represents the top of your skimmer. The skimmer will be 6" deep, and the average water depth will be 3". 26"-3" = 23", so you should just make sure you get 11 inches of gunite on your shelf. The gunite crews are amazing to watch -- they need to have some artistic flair to make it all work together.

I intentionally chose 12" water depth on my sunshelf after researching it, and added a step to access it. Gunite crew can patch that in without rebar if you want one. Otherwise, the first step is a whopper: 12"+3"(to bottom of coping)+2"(coping)=17"
 
Love the specifications - keep the pics coming. Hope you plan to keep the Travertine sealed.

IG gunite 30' X 16'-9', 358 sqft, 3.5'-6.5' deep, 8'X5' spa flush with pool, Hayward ecostar pump, Hayward progrid DE filter, Hayward PS-8 automation, SWG, color LED X 3, overflow, 2 main drains, 1 skimmer, 3 returns, H400 NG heater for spa, HeatPro heat pump for pool, Polaris 280, sunshelf with bubbler, Pebblesheen blue granite with glass beads added to sunshelf, 750 sqft ivory travertine deck, screen enclosure.

​
 
Thanks for the comments. The sunshelf ended up being 12" deep as I requested. And the builder agreed to plumb the returns with 2" pipe.

Here are some photos of the spa plumbing, completed rebar and concrete. Today everything is being backfilled.





 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply