Diverter Valves - Change Ports

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G

GigaMike

0
Sep 1, 2015
19
Albany NY
I want to replace my old spin valves with a diverter valve. My Plumbing configuration doesnt allow for the perfect T of a diverter so I want to see if I can unscrew a diverter valve and change what ports would be operated by the handle?


Here is my configuration:

Pump Inlet
|
|
|-----------Main Drain Line.
|
|
Skimmer Line


Same is true for my Returns:

Filter Outlet
|
|
|-----------Stair/Shallow Return Line
|
|
Deep end Return Line


Thanks!
 

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The valves will certainly work in that configuration. You'll need to unscrew the top assembly and rotate it so the inlet corresponds to the port that you are using as the inlet. The valves are very slightly less efficient in this orientation but sometimes it's unavoidable.

If you are going through the trouble of adding these valves, I would assume there is enough replumbing going on that you could orient these valves to work as intended. It is difficult to say without a picture of your setup though
 
Thanks for the reply. I thought I attached the image but I still have trouble attaching images. Here is a link to the image on Photobucket.

The plumbing lines are configured in a way that I couldn't make the Diverter a true t without introducing some more elbows. The valves work fine I just wanted to upgrade for upgrade sake. Maybe I'm fine leaving everything alone. I do have some air entering the suction side (excessive bubbles in pump basket and in return lines) so im going to be reattaching the valves this fall after closing to ensure they are sealed tight at the threads. I just hope they aren't the source of the air. Also I'll be replacing the pump and push/pull valve after the season is over so the hood will be up for plumbing changes. I'm a complete pool noob and plumbing noob so advice is very very much appreciated.


 
If you're getting a new pump and backwash valve, I'd cut the whole thing out and start over. The three port valves are a vast improvement over your current ones. You are already doing most of the work anyway. I also suggest going to all 2" pipe

The 3 valves by the heater, is that a heater bypass? Hard to tell from the picture.
 
Yes, its a heater bypass. The heater is shot so I will be removing it this fall. I might keep some bypass valves in case I ever decide to get another heater but short time I have no desire to.

I Was planning on buying the replacement push-pull valve on Amazon for $72 but Ive seen people with multi-port valves for backwashing. Im not sure if I can put something like that in this setup and if its even worth it.

The only thing Im not replacing is the filter LOL. But that might change when I open it up for fall cleaning and take a look at the grids. I do get a lot of DE in the pool and the user manual said that could be bad grids. everything in the pool is 15 years old. Im open to suggestions if I do need to replace it.
 
Might as well replace that too. I really like the Pentair Quad filters. You can absolutely add a multi-port valve to your current or future filter, just be aware that the multiports are specific to the type of filter.

As far as Pentair is concerned, there is one multiport for the sand and quad filters, and there is one for the cartridge and DE filters. The inlet and outlet ports on these filters are the reverse of eachother (I'm partial to Pentair if you haven't noticed).

If you replace the heater, the Pentair MasterTemps or the Raypacks get very good reviews...Might as well add a salt cell too...and some automation....and some new pool lights...

Anywhere else I can help you spend your money???
 
Lol I was starting to worry for a bit when you started adding stuff. I could replace the filter if necessary. I keep going back and forth on the sat investment. I know ppl love it. I only have about $1700 in the budget so it's either salt or filter (if needed)

Btw if originally from oc fwiw. Miss it every day especially this time of year until about May. Lol
 
That looks great. It will be a little bit of work but well worth the trouble.

I take it the heater didn't make the cut?

It also looks like the valve on your suction line is closed...definitely don't want to run the pump with the valve in that position:D
 

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LOL, thanks for the drawing PST. I guess my heater didnt make the cut, which is fine because its garbage. The suction and return lines arent parallel so in order to make it look like your drawing, I need some elbows which I wanted to avoid but I think I'll be okay. When I get my new pump (whatever I decide to get) I will likely have to replumb everything anyway. Also you left me room for a SWG ;)

Only thing I might do is add some heater valves in case I decide to add some solar or something.

Lastly, by converting from individual valves to a 3-way, I am losing the ability to close both lines. Isnt that something I want to do when I close for winter? I guess I am wondering how to keep water from entering the main drain line after I blow it out.
 
View attachment 43035 Heres another way.....keep in mind im only trying to show ways to plumb in 3 way valves, the 2 illustrations should give you an idea at least, and no, the heater did not make the cut, as it was mentioned above that it is being removed, and if needed i will add a diagram with heater line stub outs that can be capped off for future heater hook up, there are several ways to skin this cat so...also, I will provide input on other concerns you have mentioned, later, when time permits,
 
I am from Phoenix,AZ we do not close pools here,they are run 365 days a year so...i am not familiar with closing of pools for winter,but, you could substitute the 3 way valve for (2) 2 way valves, one on each vertical pipe, there is a way to close off the 3 way valve it just requires lifting its handle and turning it to bypass its lock tabs on the valve plate that prevent it from closing off during normal use, maybe you can explain more as to what the procedure is involving how you intend to close your pool in the off season, and i can give a better idea if needed, the valve im describing is a "Jandy Neverlube Valve" more later
 
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