Do you have a spare Raypak 2100 Heater part I need?

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nazran

nazran

0
Jul 23, 2012
65
Dallas Ft Worth
My very old inherited Raypak 2100 won't stay on. It ran through April here in Texas. It got hot in Texasp, and I don't do hot tubs in 100 degree weather :cool: so I haven't turned it on since April.

As Fall is approaching I wanted to make sure all was good. (The LCD screen was not functioning when I bought the house but the old owner gave me detailed operating instructions. I had no problems as far as turning it on, changing temps etc.)

This weekend I fired it on and I can hear the click of the lighter (not technical term I know) but it never catches and continues to heat the pool.

I am unable to determine the error code because the LCD on the panel is toast. In order for me to see what the PCB board thinks the problem is I need to be able to read the error code. :(

I am putting out the plea to see if any readers would happen to have an old PCB board (working or not) and wouldn't mind mailing me the LCD screen from it? (It detaches easily) I would pay you for shipping. Please save me from spending $400+ on a whole unit. :) Here are some photos of the part I am looking for.

FRONT

BACK

Thanks!
 

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Thank you ps0303 for sending me the spare LCD. Unfortunately I did not get a read out on it after installing. It was getting late last night so I didn't take a voltage meter to anything but I took the access panel off of the in/out flow for the Raypak 2100 and noticed the pressure sensor was rusted to the point of crumbling (the top part I should mention. The part screwed in still had a seal to the heater. ) One of the wires to the sensor was completely disconnected by the corrosion. If I replace the pressure sensor and the electrical circuit is completed would that then return power to the board/lcd screen, or is it possible my board has died too?
 
nazran said:
Thank you ps0303 for sending me the spare LCD. Unfortunately I did not get a read out on it after installing. It was getting late last night so I didn't take a voltage meter to anything but I took the access panel off of the in/out flow for the Raypak 2100 and noticed the pressure sensor was rusted to the point of crumbling (the top part I should mention. The part screwed in still had a seal to the heater. ) One of the wires to the sensor was completely disconnected by the corrosion. If I replace the pressure sensor and the electrical circuit is completed would that then return power to the board/lcd screen, or is it possible my board has died too?
Click to expand...

Sent you a PM on this.
 
Hi ps0303.

Ok I re-seated the LCD panel you sent me along with all of my PCB board connectors. I now can see the screen. Thank you for that spare screen.

I replaced the pressure sensor today and reconnected the wiring. (I did not make an adjustment to the default pressure from shipping)

The LCD is only displaying water temp and OFF. pressing the mode button does not change it to SPA or POOL option.

What do you think my next step would be?

Edit... Actually when I fire the heater for about 2 secs RV1 seems to display before water temp and off shows

Edit 2 ... Rv1 is the firmware revision
 
Just for the heck of it, simultaneously, hold down the two temp buttons and mode for 3-5 seconds. See if REM shows up on it. REM stands for remote mode and that's used for systems with automation where it controls the heater on/off/temp function. If it was in remote mode though, REM OFF would be showing up on the display.

I'm starting to wonder on the control board and if it is any good. Only way to know would be to replace it. That's the bad thing with not having extra parts to swap out and try. You'd have to buy it an hope all is good. Also, you could just have a bad key pad. Again, hard to tell unless you swap it out.
 
ps0303 said:
Just for the heck of it, simultaneously, hold down the two temp buttons and mode for 3-5 seconds. See if REM shows up on it. REM stands for remote mode and that's used for systems with automation where it controls the heater on/off/temp function. If it was in remote mode though, REM OFF would be showing up on the display.

I'm starting to wonder on the control board and if it is any good. Only way to know would be to replace it. That's the bad thing with not having extra parts to swap out and try. You'd have to buy it an hope all is good. Also, you could just have a bad key pad. Again, hard to tell unless you swap it out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. Pushing all 3 buttons made no difference. Any suggestions on where to get that board online cheap?
 
Hi Paul,

Yes holding down all three buttons for up to 10 seconds did not change to Remote mode. Still just says off and water temp.

I will start looking for replacement boards. I think to be safe I will replace the buttons as well (PN 006739F)

In your experience are the PCB board failures and or LCD failures results of exposure to the elements?
 
Yes either exposure to the elements because the cellophane window of the keypad gave way over time and allowed water into the board. Also here in FL, critters like to sneak up and hide up in that area by the board. I've found snakes in many systems and that caused the board to short and do funny things. Ultimately the board needed to be replaced.

One other thing, is the unit worth it to keep putting so much money into? How does it look inside under the burners and around the manifold by the gas valve?
 

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