My very first test

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Good work!

There isn't any need to write down the "Br" result. That is only if you are using bromine, which you aren't.

TC=FC+CC but 2 doesn't equal 1+0, so you wrote something down wrong.

If you can still see the black dot you call the result zero.

Your TA level is a little high, you will want to start lowering that when your pool is filled. See the Lower Total Alkalinity article at Pool School.
 
numberonenole said:
I used the TF-100 and my tap water since that is what is currently being added to the pool. Hopefully the pool will be filled by tomorrow! So...
Cl 1 Br 2
This is with the OTO test (color block that also has the pH test)...ignore the Br (bromine) scale. It doesn't apply to you since you are using chlorine.
ph 7.2
FC 1
TC 2
CC 0
There is a problem with your testing here (no worries, everyone has a bit of difficulty at frist!) because FC + CC =TC and 1 +2 does NOT equal 0!
The first part of the test is your FC. once it turns clear add the last reagent and if it turns pink you have CC and need to continue. Titrate again to get the CC (remember, with a 10 ml sample size each drop is equivalent to .5 ppm chlorine). Your total chlorine will be the number of drops for your FC + the number of drops for your CC.
For example, if your sample turned from pink to clear with 2 drops then your FC is 1 (2 x .5), you then add the R-0003 and it turns pink again. this means you have CC. (If it had stayed clear you would not have any CC and your test is done!) You titrate again and it takes 3 drops to turn clear (this is 3 x .5= 1.5 ppm CC) . Your TC is 1 + 1.5 = 2.5 ppm (or you can look at it like 2 drops + 3 drops = 5 drops x .5 = 2.5 ppm TC)

If you have NO FC, i.e. sample stays clear when adding the DPD powder) (which can happen when testing tapwater) add the R-0003 to see if there is any FC. Often there is.


TA 220 (to pink throughout)
A bit high but not your immediate concern. We will deal with that once you get your chlorination routine down pat! :goodjob:

CH 220
No worries here!

CYA ? (I could always see the black dot)
If you haven't put any in it won't be there! It's not something normally found in tap water! (sometiems it might be found in well water that has been contaminated by herbicide runoff, however.) CYA is 0 ppm!
Whatcha think?
Click to expand...
 
Third official test results

temp 75 degrees
FC .5
CC 0
TC .5
ph 7.5
TA 170
CH 180
CYA <20

The rest of this stuff is what I think based on my reading. Please let me know if it is correct! Thanks!
I think my target goals are :
FC 3-7
ph 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90
CH 50-300
CYA 30-50

which means I need to work on my FC and TA.

FC: I'm going to add 35 oz of 12% bleach to work on the FC. I will have little kids in the pool, so based on the CYA/FC chart, since my CYA is so low my target FC is 3. I am using tablets :oops: at the lowest setting (inline chlorinator) which obviously isn't letting too much FC or CYA in. I do expect the CYA to build up eventually.

TA: I'm confused on this one. Target goal stated 70-90, but I am using tablets so I shouldn't have a TA below 100. I don't think I have any aeration or a ton of calcium so can I leave it where it is (at 170) or should I keep working to bring it down. It was 220 on my first test!

Thanks for your patience with me! I really want to learn.
 
Given that you are using trichlor tablets/pucks:

Your FC target level depends on your current CYA level. Since your CYA level is currently what I call zero, you need to maintain an FC level of between 1 and 3. Later when CYA goes up that will change (trichlor constantly adds CYA).

That means your FC level is a little low. You should turn up the tablet feeder a little.

Your PH is fine. Keep an eye on it and don't let it go down too much.

Your TA is high, but since you have a vinyl pool and you are using tablets you can leave it alone for now.

CH is fine.

CYA is low, but since you are using trichlor, you are already adding CYA and can wait for the trichlor to bring CYA up slowly.
 
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