New TFP Method User, First Test Results, Some Questions

Sep 11, 2015
22
Orlando, FL
Hi all - Dan from Orlando. Thanks so much for the site, it has been a lifesaver while firing my pool company (they never told me to fix my broken pressure gauge, when I did my system was at 25PSI because they never mentioned my old filter, after buying a new one, it went to 9!) and then trying to understand the voodoo the pool store was selling. I finally got a TF-50 to test things properly (Rebecca at TFTestkits was terrific), and my numbers are decent:

FC - 7.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.5
CH - 450
CYA - 70 (was measured at 100 by pool store, which was what brought me here and got me off tablets)
TA - 80

I did the overnight FC test, and it went to 7.0FC/0CC, so I think I'm OK on that front.

Some questions:
1) Since I'm using liquid Cl and not a SWG, I assume I should do a couple dilutions to get my CYA to 40 or 50, and my CH a little lower (fill water is 150). Being in FL, I'm leary of a partial drain/fill... figure I'll get a submersible pump for the stairs and a hose at the bottom of the deep end.

2) Does it matter what liquid Cl I use? In my area, the 10% pool chlorinator at Lowes is cheaper than 8.3% bleach at BJs. Or I could use the 12% (?) Cl from the pool store. But...

3) When I add the Cl from Lowes, it doesn't seem to give me the results that PoolCalculator tells me it should - the FC doesn't get as high. Is there an easy way to test the strength of Cl that you buy? If my math is right, I would need to dilute 1ml of 10% Cl in 26 gallons of water to test in ppm? That's not realistic.

4) I read somewhere (caveat emptor) that using bleach instead of pool store Cl raises Total Disolved Solids - is that true?

(Edited to remove some questions after reading the rules - oops!)

Thanks,
Dan
 
Hi Dan,
welcome to TFP!

I will chime in on some of your questions.
1. Sounds like a good plan. Drain and refill will help out with both the CH and the CYA.

2. Use any liquid CL you want. to know which prices and % is actually the best deal, here's a nifty little price calculator you can use.
Chlorine Price Per Ounce Calculator


3. There isnt an easy way to test the strength of clorine. I wish there were. If you dont get your expected results in pool math, that could also be due to your pool volume being slightly different that you may have thought?

4. Bleach and liquid chlorine is Sodium Hypochlorite. Sodium being a bit of salt, so yes, using bleach or liquid chlorine does raise the TDS slightly. And no, TDS are not relevent in keeping your pool clean and sanitary if using TFPC method. In additon to salt, TDS encompases CYA, CH, Phosphates etc... all of which are solids.

5. If you keep your parameters within recommended levels, then there is no need to test for TDS (testing it doesnt matter anyhow because it doesnt distinguish between one thing and another). CH, CYA, a it of salt, etc are all TDS's. So if you mantain correct parameters per TFPC, then it doesnt really matter what the TDS count is. It will be fine.

6. No harm in that, but those extra FCs will be unprotected by CYA, and generally will burn off fairly quickly by UV from the sun.

7. Keep your water level anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 way down from the top of teh skimmer. When I top of my water, I fill until its 1/4 down from the top. When it's evaporated to midway of the skimmer, I top it off again.

hope this helps,
 
Welcome! :wave:

Your chemistry looks okay to me. Is the water clear and sparkling? No algae anywhere?

Hi all - Dan from Orlando. Thanks so much for the site, it has been a lifesaver while firing my pool company (they never told me to fix my broken pressure gauge, when I did my system was at 25PSI because they never mentioned my old filter, after buying a new one, it went to 9!) and then trying to understand the voodoo the pool store was selling. I finally got a TF-50 to test things properly (Rebecca at TFTestkits was terrific), and my numbers are decent:

FC - 7.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.5
CH - 450
CYA - 70 (was measured at 100 by pool store, which was what brought me here and got me off tablets)
TA - 80

I did the overnight FC test, and it went to 7.0FC/0CC, so I think I'm OK on that front.

Some questions:
1) Since I'm using liquid Cl and not a SWG, I assume I should do a couple dilutions to get my CYA to 40 or 50, and my CH a little lower (fill water is 150). Being in FL, I'm leary of a partial drain/fill... figure I'll get a submersible pump for the stairs and a hose at the bottom of the deep end.
I wouldn't go to any great effort to replace water if I was you. Unlike California, you get substantial rain, don't you? Rainwater has no CYA and no CH. Grab what you can when it rains. Your CYA level isn't so high it's going to be a problem, as long as you don't let any algae get started. Which is why I asked how things look.
2) Does it matter what liquid Cl I use? In my area, the 10% pool chlorinator at Lowes is cheaper than 8.3% bleach at BJs. Or I could use the 12% (?) Cl from the pool store. But...
No. Crunch the numbers and buy whichever works out cheapest per %-oz.
3) When I add the Cl from Lowes, it doesn't seem to give me the results that PoolCalculator tells me it should - the FC doesn't get as high. Is there an easy way to test the strength of Cl that you buy? If my math is right, I would need to dilute 1ml of 10% Cl in 26 gallons of water to test in ppm? That's not realistic.
The stuff at Lowes is probably old and sits outside in the garden department in the heat. Check this thread: Chlorine Date Code Decoder/Easy Way to Measure Strength.
4) I read somewhere (caveat emptor) that using bleach instead of pool store Cl raises Total Disolved Solids - is that true?

(Edited to remove some questions after reading the rules - oops!)

Thanks,
Dan
Anything you add to the water will raise TDS. Who cares? I've never had mine tested and my water is crystal clear.
 
Dave, Richard, thanks for the quick replies!

My water is sparkling clear (and stays that way consistently), so I'm good on that front. What I've been doing before getting the getting the FAS/DPD test was using the the OTO test, and when I got to the 3-6 range, I would add enough Cl to get back up to 10 or so. I didn't occur to me until reading the "detailed TFTestkit instructions" thread that I could dilute the water and test at a higher range with some accuracy. Still, it'd be nice to get the ideal FC to a level that the OTO test reads natively.

I get buckets of rain, and I have two gutter downspouts that could be easily directed to the pool when I know a big rain is coming. Any precautions I ought to use? Maybe some cheesecloth over the output to block big stuff? Then I can drain off the excess with the drain by the pump and over time dilute things a bit.

That thread about Cl strength is incredible... turns out my stuff from Lowes is 6 months old! That means that I'm lucky if I'm even getting half the FC I ought to be, based on the half-life table. I'll have to check out the date codes on the Chlorox at BJs, which is at least air-conditioned.
 
This afternoon I bought 5 gallons (2 2.5 containers) at Pinch-A-Penny for $9. Don't let all the anti-pool store talk go to your head. I am signed up for their rewards program also and get coupons from time to time.

Since we are in Orlando and get tons of rain in summer I usually need to add CYA because of overflow/splash. Because of this, another thing I do ( that is discouraged on here) is use pucks. But since we are near the end of the rainy season I will pull them out.

Wish I could be out fishing today. That lake looks great.

Dave
 

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I buy all my chlorine at the pool stores. Pinch-a-penny sells the 2.5gal refills for under $5, and its 12.5%. Leslie's is about the same price, but I always keep an eye out for sales and coupons. I also use the tabs to raise my CYA when it's needed, due to all the rain. I have stayed between 40-50 CYA all summer
 
Good point all - thanks. I had a feeling that the PaP Cl was actually pretty cheap... my biggest worry has actually been if I can manage to pour out a few cups at a time without spilling it all over, vs using gallons. I have an automatic puck feeder, and I'll still probably use it when I have to travel, so the better half doesn't have to worry about adding Cl every day. I figure that occasional use will keep the CYA level reasonable (and it's good to know that that is reasonable for our city - thanks mwDave). I bought an extra 8oz of CYA reagent with my kit specifically so I can test CYA more often than others might.
 
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