What is the purpose of adding Antifreeze during closing?

[TreeFiter]

Normally when I close an inground pool, I blow the lines and plug them. If the line is properly blown, there is no water to freeze.

I have a customer that wants me to add Antifreeze to their lines. I have no problem with giving them what they ask for, but I just don't see what value this adds. From what I have seen, most people just pour a gallon or two into the piping. I don't see how that is going to do anything. Unless you pour in enough that it runs through from one end to the other, you have no way of knowing if the antifreeze is going to help.

To me, it would make more sense to first blow the lines. Then fill the pump basket with antifreeze and blow the line again so that the antifreeze is forced all the way through that line to the pool, then plug the line. At least this way you can be reasonably sure that the antifreeze made contact with any water that might still be in the line, and would have mixed with it to prevent freezing.

Am I missing something when it comes to pouring the antifreeze in? It just feels like something else to sell pool owners that really doesn't offer too much real protection beyond what is already there from blowing the line. If the antifreeze doesn't fill the entire pipe, its entirely possible to have low spots full of water that might still freeze.

 

[dw9000]

I would think filling the pump with antifreeze and then blowing the lines, how would you make sure all of the antifreeze doesn't end up in the pool water? I mean you could blow it out, put in the antifreeze, then blow some more and when you see the red liquid coming out you could stop the blower.

My biggest concern is my main drain, my pool is only 5 foot deep, and if I have to drain 1.5 feet, that doesn't leave much ice above the pool floor and it gets cold in Toledo.

So I was going to blow the main drains from the pump side, until I get about 30 secs of bubbles,,, some say you can just jam your 3 way (jandy) valve shut and hope it holds, and it might. I was thinking of doing this, but before jamming it shut, dumping 2 gals of RV antifreeze (using a 3 gal pail and funnel),, tryuing to get that liquid down as close to the drains as possible, ,knowing as soon as I start pouring the antifreeze the water will start working its way back from the main drain.

Or i could just blow it for 30 secs, then jam it shut. It is water tight so it should be air tight as well and it might just keep the line completely clear.

BTW - I bought a Cyclone blower, came in mail today. That thing appears to be well made and very powerful.

 

[JohnT]

The antifreeze is a backup. If a little water seeps in or the plumbing has a big dip in it, the antifreeze may save the pipe.

 

[TreeFiter]

I would think filling the pump with antifreeze and then blowing the lines, how would you make sure all of the antifreeze doesn't end up in the pool water?

I think this is where I have an issue with the process. Who really cares if the antifreeze stays in the line. If the antifreeze gets blown out into the pool, so did everything that was in the pipe before it. And if a small amount of water managed to stay behind, it is now mixed with antifreeze. So if the antifreeze ends up in the pool, you know the line has very minimal to no water left in it, and if there is any, it has been mixed with antifreeze.

- - - Updated - - -

The antifreeze is a backup. If a little water seeps in or the plumbing has a big dip in it, the antifreeze may save the pipe.

Antifreeze as a backup makes sense to me, but if there is more than one dip, you have no way of knowing if antifreeze made it to them all, unless you add enough antifreeze to completely fill the line, or watch it pour out the other end.

 

[dw9000]

If the antifreeze doesn't stay in the line, the pool water will make its way back towards the pump, based on gravity. If it is filled with antifreeze I don't think it would do this.

SO I CARE ABOUT IT STAYING IN THE LINE


I could be convinced to skip the antifreeze, just blow out the lines, specifically for me the main drain is my concern, but blow it out and close the valve,, the air pressure should keep most of the pool water out of the line???

 

[wjr75]

They dump antifreeze in my skimmer baskets also and then put an upside down empty chlorine bottle in there in case water freezes. The bottle flexes before your skimmer cracks. I still have had cracked valves at my pad even after all this stuff is done. luckly no broken pipes under concrete.

 

[TreeFiter]

If the antifreeze doesn't stay in the line, the pool water will make its way back towards the pump, based on gravity. If it is filled with antifreeze I don't think it would do this.

SO I CARE ABOUT IT STAYING IN THE LINE


I could be convinced to skip the antifreeze, just blow out the lines, specifically for me the main drain is my concern, but blow it out and close the valve,, the air pressure should keep most of the pool water out of the line???

You make a good point here, but I would still say there is no way of knowing if the antifreeze is where you will need it, unless you run it all the way through, or blow it through.

With regard to your Main Drain, we typically blow the line and then close the valve to create an air lock. Then once all of the lines are plugged and valves are closed, we put a tapered rubber plug (usually #8) in the suction line from inside the pump basket. This way if the valve doesn't completely hold, the plug should maintain the air lock.

With your situation, you could try blowing the Main Drain line then adding antifreeze and then blowing the Main Drain line just until you see the antifreeze start to come out, then close the valve to trap the antifreeze in the Main Drain line.

 

[dw9000]

Ok thanks! I think I will do that.

 

[pookiesunshine]

You make a good point here, but I would still say there is no way of knowing if the antifreeze is where you will need it, unless you run it all the way through, or blow it through.

With regard to your Main Drain, we typically blow the line and then close the valve to create an air lock. Then once all of the lines are plugged and valves are closed, we put a tapered rubber plug (usually #8) in the suction line from inside the pump basket. This way if the valve doesn't completely hold, the plug should maintain the air lock.

....

Liquids in the skimmer line to pump will find the lowest point. So the AF should be where it is needed in case of water intrustion.

Ditto on blowing main drain and closing valve. I dont use the stopper backup....yet.

Return lines blown out and jet openings capped while air is blowing out. no AF in those.