New guy=Green pool

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usertaken

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Apr 8, 2009
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Hi, I am new to the pool thing. That being said I found this forum and learned enough to go ahead and order the TF-100 test kit. This is a SWG.

Now to the problem, IT'S GREEN!!

I used the test kit and came up with these numbers,
FC-10
CC-0
TC-1-2
pH-7.2
T/A-30
CH-2
CYA-55-60
I have been trying to read up on what to do, but I wanted to get some better advice. The pool stores are a joke!
Thanks for any help.
 
Start with the Pool School part of the forum - that and the pool calculator will get you going.

I'm curious, however, if you think that your pool is green from an algae bloom? If so, then there's something wrong with your numbers (FC 10 ppm but CC 0 ppm). The experts will be along shortly, I suspect.
 
It is quite possible for FC to be 10 and CC to be 0. You often don't see any CC when fighting algae. Of course, it is also common to see at least some CC, but hardly always.

Assuming you have algae (murky or cloudy green), then JohnT has sent you to the right places. On the off chance that you have a clear transparent emerald green then it is probably something else entirely and you should speak up so we can give you different advice.
 
usertaken said:
I used the test kit and came up with these numbers,
FC-10
CC-0
TC-1-2
pH-7.2
T/A-30
CH-2
CYA-55-60
Click to expand...
I can't help but wonder if the FC=10 and CC=0 numbers are correct when I see that the TC=1-2. The CH=2 also seems unusual. I'm not the one to comment, but just wondered if some of the experts might be concerned about these numbers.
 
gtm said:
usertaken said:
I used the test kit and came up with these numbers,
FC-10
CC-0
TC-1-2
pH-7.2
T/A-30
CH-2
CYA-55-60
Click to expand...
I can't help but wonder if the FC=10 and CC=0 numbers are correct when I see that the TC=1-2. The CH=2 also seems unusual. I'm not the one to comment, but just wondered if some of the experts might be concerned about these numbers.
Click to expand...

Good catch. Can the OP please clarify? :goodjob:
 
Also, the TA of 30 is a bit suspect to me. It's possible but if it's true it indicats water balance problems that have probably existed for a while.
Is the green a clear green or a cloudy green?
Have you tested the water for copper and iron?
Have you added any metal sequesterant?
 
gtm said:
I can't help but wonder if the FC=10 and CC=0 numbers are correct when I see that the TC=1-2. The CH=2 also seems unusual.
Click to expand...
Yes, there are obviously some testing errors of some kind going on. I assume the TC reading is from the OTO test. It is fairly easy for a novice to mis-read the OTO color for a TC of 10 as a lower number, so I don't consider that significant. Likewise, CH can't be 2. CH is either 20 or something else entirely. But that is something to figure out after the water is clear and the algae is gone. The TA level is a little more troubling. If correct, that will require attention sooner than the other two.

I already asked if the water was a clear transparent green and usertaken replied that it was algae.

Right now the focus should be on getting rid of the algae, without allowing the minutia of water testing details to distract our attention or create unnecessary confusion. usertaken just got the TF100. Along the path of fighting the algae there will be further water test results and many of these details should sort themselves out along the way as usertaken gets more experience with the test kit.
 

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Sorry I haven't replied lately, I've been busy, but the water is a cloudy/grayish color now. I put a lot of bleach in it and it is clearing up the algae. As for the numbers I am new to all of this so it may not be right. If I can get the algae cleared up then I will work on the rest of it. The pool was filled mostly with well water so it is possible that it has some minerals in it. What I don't know is will the minerals ever disappear. I will try to post some new numbers tommorrow. Thanks
 
Metals in the water won't "dissappear" - you can have your water tested for them at a pool store. If they are a problem you might need to use a sequesterant. But for now just keep testing your chlorine levels and shocking until the water clears....which could take several days. Continue with the original advice by JohnT and keep that filter running and brush, brush, brush! :goodjob:
 
Ok, first off thanks for the help and this forum. Second, the water is still a little cloudy(not from algae)but I think it needs some adjusting. I tested FC yesterday and it was still 13 so I turned down the SWG, but I still come up with 0 CC. The pH is still 6.8, I haven't tried to adjust that yet.
Now I am doing the test per the instructions. Am I doing something wrong? I have never done this before so I only know what the instructions say.

I'll try to get some pics loaded tomorrow. ( if the dw will :lol: )
 
Hi. We have a list of criteria so that you "know" when you are done shocking:

You lose less than 1ppm overnight;
Your water is clear;
Your cc is .5 or less.

Your water is still cloudy. Have you performed an overnight test of the FC to see if it's holding? If it's holding it's okay to stop shocking. IF it's not, you need to keep at it. When you are doing the overnight test you need to have the SWG off to see if the FC is truly holding on it's own, not being helped along.

Do you have a sand filter? (You should include your equipment info in your signature)

Sand filters can take awhile to clear up cloudy water from dead algae. You could try adding DE to the sand for filtration assistance....read about it here

Hope this helps :wink:
 
Hi. We have a list of criteria so that you "know" when you are done shocking:

You lose less than 1ppm overnight;
Your water is clear;
Your cc is .5 or less.
Click to expand...

FPM,

Thank you for posting that. I have always liked the simplicity of that set of criteria (criterium....I can't remember). Kudos to chemgeek for defining it last year. I hope we see it a lot this season, too. :-D :-D
 
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