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hayfarmer

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Mar 29, 2009
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eastern washington state
Ok guys finally got my Good test kit.. The wife saw the kit and thought maybe i was going to build a bomb.LOL
I said no just a clear pool
So here are my numbers, i did them twice because i think some of them are high.. but they came out the same both times
FC 32
CC 0
TC 32
PH 7.3
T/A 120
CH 210 we have very hard water in this part of the world
CYA 90 remember I was using pucks last year.. but only for about 3 months
temp 52
 
Your FC level is quite high, particularly for cold water. It shouldn't cause a problem (because CYA is so high), but there is no need to keep your FC level that high. Ah, I looked at your old posts and that explains things. It would help us if you kept your discussion of your levels in one place rather than is several different topics.

Your TA is a little high, not a big deal. Simply avoid raising TA for a while and you should be fine.

CH is fine where it is.

CYA is too high. I recommend bringing CYA down to 50.
 
Sorry jason for posting a new topic, wanted to make sure you would see it.. I will learn all the rules. just keep reminding me!!!
I am glad that i waited to get the test kit to find out the FC. I thought it might be high.After all the clorine i put in it. Yes i see with the CYA at 90ppm the FC is not that bad. But i would rather be down around 50 or 60ppm for the CYA.
so how much water do i take out of the pool. its kind of milky cloudy, not bad, but far from sparkly.
thanks so much,
jim
And the kit is great
 
You should replace a little more than 1/3 of your water.

The milky water is dead algae. It may take the filter several days to over a week to clear up the water. Keep an eye on your filter pressure and backwash/clean the filter as needed. You should see a visible improvement each day.
 
Jason, Is there any chance of damage to the pool linner or walls. so let me get the right, after draining 1/3 of pool and refilling,then I check the CYA and if its 50 i will keep the TC at between 4 and 6ppm. Add some bleach if its lower then 4ppm..
thanks
jim
 
hayfarmer said:
Jason, Is there any chance of damage to the pool linner or walls. so let me get the right, after draining 1/3 of pool and refilling,then I check the CYA and if its 50 i will keep the TC at between 4 and 6ppm. Add some bleach if its lower then 4ppm..
thanks
jim

Sounds like you got it. :goodjob: ... damage from draining 1/3 - no you should be fine with that. Lots of people drain that much for winterization.....

My AG liner pool is down 1/3 right now. :)
 
When draining a vinyl liner pool, to avoid problems, you want to make sure there is at least one foot of water left in the shallow end. Also, you don't want to drain below the level of the local water table. If you live in a particularly low and wet area or it has been raining extra much and the ground is completely saturated with water then you should only drain a little at one time.

Once you get CYA down to 50, the ideal FC range is from 4 to 8, and never below 4. Your FC level will come down as you replace water, and the lower CYA level will allow the FC level to fall more quickly.
 
cool, draining as we speak. cant wait to get it back full again and then recheck. I am sure things will be better..
I also brushed all the fine dirt to the deep end so it can go out the main drain.. kill two birds with on stone.
thanks for all your help
Jim

I started a new topic maybe you could check it to..
thanks
 
Hello everyone, Well i drained 1/3 of pool approx 8000 gals from pool to try and get the CYA down and the FC down..
here are the new numbers
FC 20
CC 0
TC 20
Ph 7.6
T/A 50
CYA 45
temp 58
I cant really see if the pool is clear because its still dark out side, but last night before dark is still had a cloudy look to it.
thanks jim
 

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I think the numbers look good. With that much FC any algae should be dead and the cloudyness is probably just that, dead algae. It takes time to filter it out of your pool. POP - run the filter 24/7 (backwash if necessary) and keep an eye on the FC/CC, bumping up the FC if necessary.

Do an overnight test tonight of the FC. Check it after dark, and then retest in the morning and compare the two results. If you have a drop in the FC of more than 1ppm, you need to keep shocking. But now that your CYA level is down, so is your shock level. 16-20 is fine for you now! That 20 should drop during the day today...(sunlight). If you have a significant drop, consider a bleach addition again. Use the pool Calculator so you don't overdose on FC.

Remember the criteria to know if you are done shocking:
Your water is clear
You lose less than 1ppm overnight
Your CC is .5 or less

As for the well water, you can test your tap water separately. Why don't you go ahead and test that for us. Metals can be a problem with well water, so you may need to head to the Pool Store and have them test for metals if you think it could be a problem.
 
I think i will take a sample to the pool store and check for minerals in the water. Because i know last year when they started the pool after it was built they added something to get rid of the minerals, Or so they said. Maybe they just added it to make sure i did not have any. I do belive that they checked before adding anything for that.

here are the numbers from my tap water
FC 0
CC 0
Tc 0
Ph 7.5
TA 160
Ch 220
CYA did not test for it

I will do a TC and a CC check tonight at dark and then recheck in the morning
Thanks for the help, can wait until it sparkles
Thanks again
jim
 
Hello
I was wondering why I am getting so much difference between to test kits.. i have a 5 in 1 bio gaurd. And i have the TF100
I test the TA and get two very different readings. with the bio I get 120 and with the TF100 I get 50 So which one is right. I know 50 is low but don't want to add any soda until I am sure about the reading.
Everything looking but the TA
FC 15 coming down
CC 0
TC 0
PH 7.5
TA 50
Ch 220
CYA 45
 
The TF100 uses Taylor reagents, which are the best available. I would go with the TF100 results. If you have any doubts, do the TF100 test a second time and if you get the same number then I would be very confident that that is correct.
 
Yes, raise your TA level.

What you raise it to depends on what you use as a source of chlorine and how much trouble you have with constantly rising PH. See Recommended Levels for a starting point, and head towards the lower end of the range if you have problems with constantly rising PH and the higher end of the range if PH drift is not a problem.
 
hayfarmer said:
Hello
I was wondering why I am getting so much difference between to test kits.. i have a 5 in 1 bio gaurd. And i have the TF100
I test the TA and get two very different readings. with the bio I get 120 and with the TF100 I get 50 So which one is right. I know 50 is low but don't want to add any soda until I am sure about the reading.
Everything looking but the TA
FC 15 coming down
CC 0
TC 0
PH 7.5
TA 50
Ch 220
CYA 45
The bioguard kits are not the best in the world, IMHO. I would trust the TF100 or a Taylor!
Also, you were using Trichlor and one of the side effects of trichlor is lowering the TA.
 
Hi everyone,
I have a question, My pool is Crystal clear and sparkling clean,, but I am wondering is it as clear as it gets or is there even better... should i be able to see the bottom and be crystal clear even in the deep end.. i can see the main drains very good but how well should i see them....here are my number from today, the FC is still coming down from being in a very heavy shock to get rid of algae.
FC 7
CC 0
TC 0
PH 7.9 little high and I am watching it
TA 80
CH 220
CYA 45
Thanks for all the help, switching to BBB :goodjob:
Jim
 

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