New Pool, first test, I'm confused?

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J

juggy

0
Aug 23, 2015
20
davie/florida
Hi All,

So my new pool has been up for about a week. I have had a LOT of sand or what looks like sand in the pool since it's been filled. Pool builder never came by to clean it up, I do have first month free on the servicing of the pool so I was hoping he would do it. Anyway, never came by so I talked to him and he told me to buy the brush and pole and net and I could do it myself if I really wanted to get it done.

Anyway, I did it, pool plaster looks very discolored in certain areas (I have midnight blue marbletite). Like REALLY streaky, he insists it's just the sand that's making it look that way so I wanted to brush it to see if it's true and, of course, it's not the sand. So he's coming by tomorrow to take a look. I'm expecting a long fight on this plaster issue. Anyway, back to the question. I ran my range of tests using the Taylor K2006 kit. I tried getting the FC reading but no matter how much R-0870 I add, it never turns pink or anywhere near pink. Just flat out clear. My other readings are as follows: TA 80, PH off the charts deep red purple so I am assuming 8.5? CH 150. I wanted to run the CYA test but I couldn't find the R-0630 in this kit? Does it come with it or do you need to buy it separately? Water is pretty warm, I'd say around 85 degrees, it's not refreshing cold or cool at all. Anyway, I tried adding what little info I have into the pool math and it's telling me my pool water is not doing the plaster any favors.
 
Hello Congrats on the new pool. That was mighty nice of the PB wasting your free month, and then telling you if you want it done to do it yourself, wasn't it?

OK did you add 2 scoops of the powder to the chlorine sample water before adding the 0871? The powder is what turns it Pink IF there is chlorine present and Then you add the 0871 by drops (counting each one until clear).

If you added the powder 1st and it remained clear you have No chlorine in there and need to add the recommended amount for your current CYA level.

(The things you need to use for your CYA test is the clear plastic container, and the solution with the WHITE top It should be in there).

You'll need to add MA per POOLMATH to drop your pH to the mid 7's range. (with warranty permission of course)

EDIT: If you do add also be careful with the Muriatic Acid be sure it doesn't come in contact with your skin, It will cause burns, keep it away from metal, just pour the correct amount in front of the return, with the pump running, sweep that area well after, and make sure you keep the fumes from blowing in your face or eyes. WAIT at least 1 hour after adding MA, to add any other chemicals, or swim.
 
Right, I added the scoops before adding any other reagent and it never turned pink. Instructions said to add more if it doesn't turn pink but after 6 scoops I figured it wasn't turning and gave up. So my guess was right, there's no chlorine in the water which would also explain why the water color has changed since the first day. Unfortunately, he left me no chemicals or any idea of how to use the system so I can't really do anything about it. I kept asking him about how to run the system and something didn't look right but he just kept saying he'd pass by tomorrow.

Sorry, I realize I didn't run the CYA since I figured if it didn't have any chlorine in it, it was probably true there was no CYA either. I have a SWG so I just assumed that stuff would pump in on its own? I guess not.

I misspoke about the CYA test, it was the sodium chloride test I was trying to perform, I couldn't find the R-0630 to test that in the taylor kit even though it does mention it in the instructions. Do they just not include the R-0630 in the test kit?
 
Juggy, you seem to be in a tough spot, but let's be very clear .... that pool builder owes you support - period. New plaster needs careful attention, and the chemical portion is no different. As an example, please see this page Pool School - Start-up New Plaster. I want you to be familiar with what this page says, but not necessarily to try and do anything on your own yet unless you know FOR SURE you have complied with any minimum "break-in" period for your new plaster as noted in your contract. You do not want to do anything that could void your warranty. So try to arm yourself with some info before he shows-up, then ask some direct questions. Have a pad/pen ready and take notes. Be polite, but be clear and persistent to make sure you understand what he plans to do. Confirm a timetable of tasks and expectations from him. The fact that he basically avoided you during some of the most critical times required for new plaster doesn't give me any warm-fuzzies. I hope you receive better customer support when he arrives.
After that, and when you know for sure you have 100% control of chemical maintenance for your pool, we can really get specific with you on what to do next.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.
 
Yeah if no Stabilizer CYA has been added then there is None in there. If on the chlorine it didn't turn pink, then there is None in there. Here we recommend regular bleach BUT you'll have to add what your warranty tells you that you have to add then after the warranty is up we can help you with our method if you want us to.

You definitely need to get some stabilizer and chlorine in the pool sooner instead of later, or else it's going to turn algae green on you. (which may be what's causing the plaster to not look right now?) But as Texas said above, you have to do it THEIR way for now.


No the 0630 does not come in the kit to my knowledge.

EDIT: I think you will have to order this kit to test your Sodium chloride. Taylor K-1766 Chloride Salt Water Drop Test Kithttp://tftestkits.net/K-1766-Taylor-Salt-Test-p31.html Here is a link for it: http://tftestkits.net/K-1766-Taylor-Salt-Test-p31.html

*****Also I do NOT have a SWG, so I'm not certain the system doesn't monitor the sodium levels for you. Perhaps someone with a SWG can verify before you order it to let you know if you need it for sure or not. *******

 
juggy said:
I misspoke about the CYA test, it was the sodium chloride test I was trying to perform, I couldn't find the R-0630 to test that in the taylor kit even though it does mention it in the instructions. Do they just not include the R-0630 in the test kit?
Click to expand...

The CYA testing solution should be there.

If the PB left you with no CYA (Stabilizer), then clearly you have none. Stabilizer needs to be added so your liquid chlorine does not burn off. Also your PH will increase and will need to be reduced daily, if not every other day. This is the experience people have had with new concrete, plaster pools. Most PB add 3" tablets for the first 30 days so the CYA is increased to appropriate levels and you have adequate chlorine, at least the good ones.

At this point, you may have to attack this on your own. Other members have more experience with Plaster and PH issues. I know that this is very important to maintain daily until the plaster is cured. Please pick up either dry acid or muriatic acid immediately and add in increments. Test about 1 hour later & repeat the process. Keep the pump running at all times. Chances are that you will not be using your SWG for the first month or so. The PB should be assisting you with this during the "orientation" process.

Please post a full set of results using your Test Kit in this manner:

TC = Total Chlorine
CC = Combined Chlorine
CYA = Cyanuric Acid
CH = Calcium Hardness
TA= Total Alkalinity

Also, please post Salt Level
 
If you have a SWG it should give you the salt content on the digital readout in the controller. Make sure the chlorine switch is turned to auto. I am running mine in a 13,000 gallon pool for two six hour periods each day set at 20% and am keeping an FC of 6. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the input guys, so he came this week and dropped some bleach in but I wasn't there to witness it. He also scrubbed the pool, vacuumed the sand pit that was there, and then had his people scrub the plaster again. The streaking looks much better in some areas, still visible in others. Once he put the bleach in the pool blue'd up again and the water was clear. Problem is he comes once a week and I'm guessing he doesn't use CYA so the bleach runs out pretty quickly. The pool is pretty open to the sun, I offered to insert chemicals in between visits but he doesn't want me to do it until he shows me what to do. He told me the SWG doesn't go on for the first month so the first month it's basically his once a week visit. He's coming by this Saturday to show me how everything works. I will post my test results after he leaves on Saturday and run the full set of tests.


Rusty, I'm interested in why you keep FC at 6? When I look at pool school and see the pool math page it shows SWG should be running FC at 2?
 

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Juggy, when looking at the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, you will eventually be looking at the bottom portion of the chart for SWGs. You're in that awkward stage right now with the SWG not operating. Either way, you will eventually shoot for an FC target level as recommended by that chart. Once the SWG is operating and CYA is raised to the proper level (70-80) for a SWG pool, your FC level will be around 5-6, possibly a notch higher until you ensure it is dialed-in accurately and reliable on its own.

Definitely follow your PBs advice. After his visit tomorrow, you'll know more. You can always ask him if there's any problem with adding a 1/2 gallon or so of regular bleach each day to prevent an algae growth. Also, please try to update your signature with your pool details. It really helps us when we reply. :)
 
Ok, I've updated my signature, thanks! I get what you're saying about not being on an SWG yet but in 3 weeks when I'm on it I'll be going with the TFP recommendations. Right now, the pool math is showing me this for what the FC should be on a SWG, to me this means I should set the target for 3, no?

Suggested FC LevelsSWG:3 Normal:5 to  10 Shock:28 Mustard Algae Shock:39
Suggested target FC levels based on the current CYA level for outdoor pools.
 
The "3" that you are looking at on the calculator is actually the "minimum" recommended. When you let it get that low, you run the risk of algae setting-in. When you look at the calculator, it's best to stay at the "normal" range. The calculator lists a normal range of "5-10", but the CYA chart simply lists it as a "target" level of 5. I think most folks simply print that portion of the CYA Chart table that applies, keep it somewhere visible, and use that one target value. It's just more convenient for daily reference.

Hope that helps.
 
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