First post wih a new pool and its green

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Hi Jim! :wave: More than likely, your pool has been over-run by algae. Not to worry, you CAN fix it, but you need to know a couple things:
- You will need to "SLAM" via Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
- You need a test kit that will test CYA accurately, test CC, and also test FC at level higher than just 5 ppm. If you don't have such a test kit, I would urge you to consider getting a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit. Those will provide the results you need to perform a SLAM accurately.
When you do the SLAM, make sure you follow every step as instructed on that page. It DOES work. If you have any more questions, just let us know.
 
The best way to effectively reduce CYA is by a partial drain/refill. So if you chose to go that route, you should do it now before anything else so you don't waste chemicals. It's still quite hot, so if you wanted to keep the CYA at about 50, you could get by with about a 40% drain/fill. Once the new CYA is verified, start back with the chemicals and preparations to SLAM accordingly since the SLAM (and FC levels) are based off of your CYA.
 
So after reading about murky water and the dot test not sure the CYA is really 80 test strip says closer to 40-60.

I dont have the DAP/FAS test but will get it.

I currently have FC at 15 TC at 15 leaving the CC at 0. Now what? Not sure I understand if that's good or bad

Thanks again
 
Jim, according to our test kit comparisons here at Pool School - Test Kits Compared, your 81329 kit should be able to test FC and CYA. Are you saying you don't have any more reagents, or just aren't sure how to test? Those two tests are critical right now to start and conduct a SLAM. Conducting a SLAM without the right test kit it's like driving blindfolded. If your Leslies kit has the CYA test where you mix the solution then pour it in the skinny viewing tube, that's what you want to use. Definitely no test strips - for anything. You must confirm your CYA before you can proceed. Once you/we know your CYA, then we go to the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart to verify what higher FC (SLAM/Shock) level you should be at.
 
I see Jim. I was looking at what you had listed in your Signature. :( Well, that 2004b test package won't serve you very well right now. Your biggest problem, other than green water, is not the alkalinity, we need to know your CYA (stabilizer) level. If your CYA level is high from past chemicals, then your only option is to do a partial drain to lower the CYA. That must be done first before trying to adjust any other chemical readings. If you don't want to order the proper kit on-line, you can check locally for someone who may have a CYA test kit locally. But by the time you do that and run around, you could probably just order a good kit on-line.

Until you know what your CYA is and can really start a SLAM, I would not put anything in the water other than about 1/2 gallon of regular bleach each day just to try and keep the green from getting any worse. Once you get the proper test kit (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C), we can get a full set of test results and really pinpoint what needs to be done and in which order.
 

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20% new well water added, a little acid to drop the PH, some aeration, a filter rinse and 12 bottles of bleach added before the numbers below. Based on the pool calculator I added 4 more. Pool has turned grey now.

Ok lets try these numbers. Using DAP not FAS
FC 7.2
TC 10
CC 2.8
CYA 60
ALK 16
PH 7.2
 
If we assume those readings are reliable, pH is perfect for your SLAM. A CYA of 60 would mean your FC needs to be increased to "24" with pump running 24/7 until the SLAM is complete. Do not test pH while FC is over 10, not do any other chemical adjustments. Also remember (FYI) that while acid lowers pH, the aeration raises it back up. An ALK of 16 doesn't make sense. Probably 160? In any case, while doing a SLAM, FC is your most important concern right now. You must be able to test and maintain an FC of 24 until the SLAM is complete. No need to adjust any other items, only maintain FC of 24 with regular liquid bleach.
 
The amount of bleach used really varies on how bad the algae is and the pool's CYA level. Maintaining the proper FC (SLAM) level could easily take 6-10 bottles. What you don't use the first day, you'll certainly use over the next few days, so it's always better to have extra. Once you increase to the required SLAM FC level, then of course you just need to keep it there. After the first day or two, you'll get into a bit of a rhythm and be able to guess how much bleach you need for the next day or two. So do you best to keep the FC level where it needs to be. While that's happening, don't forget your other SLAM duties as noted on the SLAM page. :) Good luck!
 
Ok, things are looking great. Pool is not green, just cloudy and I can see the bottom. Fc is holding around 30. I have vacuumed to remove the dead alge of the bottom and brushed the sides. Now I just sit back and wait running the pump 24/7 cleaning filter as needed.

Do I wait for completely clear water and holding its FC overnite or is cloudy ok?
 
Now I just sit back and wait running the pump 24/7 cleaning filter as needed.
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Nope. Per the SLAM article in Pool School....SLAM:
Test the FC level and add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (see here for correct shock level)
Test and adjust chlorine levels as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day. Chlorine additions should be frequent, especially at the beginning. Algae and other organic debris will consume chlorine very rapidly at first. As things progress, you will lose less chlorine each cycle and can add chlorine less frequently.
Brush and/or vacuum the entire pool once a day
Backwash or clean the filter as needed
Vacuum up debris as needed
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You must follow these guidelines to a T if you want the SLAM to work. If you quit early, you will fail.
 
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