First test number are in!

You don't have to wait a few days, I suspected it would have all been dissolved by now, but since it isn't, just hang the sock outside the pool, (you might want to put a bucket under it to catch the water that drains out which can be poured in after), then go ahead, and adjust your pH/TA as Kim suggested, and Then hang the sock of CYA back into the pool to finish up dissolving.
 
OK, now were getting a bunch of rain, and pool seems to be filling faster than I thought it would. I don't want to let any water out of it, because of the stabilizer sock. Is it ok to let it get almost to top of skimmer?
 
Yes that will be fine as long as the skimmer skims correctly, and as long as the pool doesn't overflow you should be fine.

It's only sprinkling here right now, but I suspect you'll be sending your Mayfield rain to Owensboro anytime now. :) My granddad had a cabin at KY Lake, and his home was in Paducah
 
Thanks Crackerjack. I don't think it will get close to overflowing, or I hope not anyway. I will leave sock in there tonight, and retest water in the morning and see where I go from there.

I retired from the Corps of Engineers on KY lake and Lake Barkley!!
 
That's certainly a beautiful area there. I loved going there as a kid. We now have a cabin at Rough River, up around the Falls of the Rough, so I don't get towards the KY lake area much anymore, but sure loved it as a kid.
 
This mornings test results. FC jumped way up, so I will be adjusting SWG down or turning off for a day or so and re-check. Stabilizer sock came out last night, so I didn't check CYA. I am going to get MA and drop PH to 7.2, and turn eyeballs up to aerate water good, to drop TA. Does this sound about right?

FC: 8.5
CC: 0
PH: 7.8
TA: 120
CH: 100
CYA: No test
Salt: 3200
 
Yes the pH TA plan sounds good.

With the CYA not registering in there Yet, I wouldn't recommend shutting the SWG completely off for any extended time as your chlorine might drop too quickly because there's no CYA holding it yet. Perhaps turn it down a little, but you can safely run a FC of 5-6 ppm and be fine (that will give you a 1-2ppm cushion above your Target level for the 60 CYA when it does start registering). I just wouldn't want you to shut it off for "a day or so", and the chlorine level then end up quickly dropping below minimum on you, risking algae growth. :)
 
Yes the pH TA plan sounds good.

With the CYA not registering in there Yet, I wouldn't recommend shutting the SWG completely off for any extended time as your chlorine might drop too quickly because there's no CYA holding it yet. Perhaps turn it down a little, but you can safely run a FC of 5-6 ppm and be fine (that will give you a 1-2ppm cushion above your Target level for the 60 CYA when it does start registering). I just wouldn't want you to shut it off for "a day or so", and the chlorine level then end up quickly dropping below minimum on you, risking algae growth. :)

Got it........Thanks! I will just turn it down a few % points for today!
 

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There is really no set time of when to check it, it depends on the amount of aeration etc. You want to aerate until your pH reaches 7.8ppm, once the pH is there then check your TA at that time. If the TA is still too high then lower pH back to 7.2ppm with MA again, and start aerating it back up again to 7.8ppm do this until the TA gets to where you want it.

Here is a link that explains how to lower TA which might help. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity
 
Salt question.........My salt test strips I got with my TF-100 kit show 3200 ppm, but my Pool Pilot SWG display shows 3700 ppm. Which one do I believe? I can change the readings on display to match with test strips, but I am not sure if that's the way to go.
 
Although I do Not have a SWG from the stuff I've learned here, you should Trust the SWG reading over the test strip reading.

Here is a link where the person actually has a Aqua rite, but they too were having the same inconsistencies. Apparently this happens frequently with SWG readings vs test strip reading.

Here is something interesting, stated by Jason Lion in comment #2 that (paraphrasing)both the (Aqua rite in that case), and the strips both have a +- 400 difference possible, so in all reality they Could be 800 off total(though not likely, yet Both readings are within their range and Both are correct.)

Also comment 2 and 23 list some steps that might help you get an instant salt level reading. http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/20314-Aqua-Rite-salt-reading-not-accurate

I hope this helps. Have a nice night. :)
 
That's right, most salt tests are +/-400 ppm. They are designed to make sure you are in the ball park. If the SWG is happy and making chlorine then there is nothing to worry about. Most SWGs work with a wide range of salt levels. My Pentair will make chlorine with salt from less than 2800 ppm to over 4500 ppm. When I get a low salt light I just add another bag.
 
After adding MA about 48 hours ago, I just rechecked PH and TA. PH went back up to 7.8, and TA fell from 120 to 90. I have been aerating pretty hard from return jets pointing up, and stirring the water up good. Should I add the MA again this evening, to bring it back down to 7.2 and keep aerating or just add MA and not aerate as much. I am shooting for 70-80 TA level. Or should I leave it alone??
 
Hello,

+1 on pooldv comment: With the SWG, it too will aerate some causing the pH to slowly rise. We don't want your pH to get too high and since the TA is significantly lower now, I would recommend just putting the jets back down now to clean the bottom, go ahead, and lower your pH back down to 7.2ppm with MA once more, and then just let the SWG's natural aeration ability raise the pH slowly back up for you, which should lower the TA a little more in the process. A lot of people just let their TA float. The TA will find a spot where it will settle in, and that will help prevent you from having so many pH fluctuations.

You've done a great job with your adjustments. I hope this helps.
 

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