Green tinge. Halp! I have numbers just new to this.

Sep 2, 2015
21
Canton, Ohio
I have some numbers and my pool stats are in my signature.
I plan on running these tests again when I get home from work to make sure the numbers are in line.
Mainly because I read the notice afterwards about going 18" deep. So that may throw these numbers off since I did not do that.

Temp = 78

FC = 15ppm
CC = 0

PH = 7.7

TA = 210

CH = 250

CYA = 60ppm

My pool is green and I cannot get it to go away. I sweep the bottom with a thick bag to get fine dirt. Some makes it through then the dispereses in the water and will settle to be dust again.
It will be kinda better for a day then it will go back to how it was.

Pictures of said pool here: My Pool Ugh - Album on Imgur

Anything else you need... let me know and I can do it tonight.
 
I can perform a OCLT tonight if that is the best first step.

I have had this issue constantly since about June. I have almost used the entire 5lb jug of KemTek.

The water itself seems clear unless the stuff on the bottom is agitated.
 
I backwashed and am now filling up the same level it was.

Family member gave me some of this: Amazon.com: Aqua Chem 5-Pack Shock Xtra Blue for Swimming Pools, 5 Pounds: Patio, Lawn Garden

Is that ok to use or should I just do bleach for shock?

Also some more pictures now that the glare is off the pool.

Pool Part Deux - Album on Imgur

The 2nd to last picture is the outtake. The green stuff on top. I do not remember that being there, it does not come off easily either.

I wouldn't use it. It's Dichlor which adds lots of CYA to the pool. You are already at 60 and really should do a partial drain/refill before starting a SLAM. You don't need any mnore CYA.
 
Will do. I shall use bleach then.

After backwashing, and also draining probably 1/5th of the pool and a fill.

Here are my numbers for this evening.

FC: 15
CC: .5

PH: 7.6

TA: 230

CH Turned Pink not red. Not sure if that matters.
I finished the test anyways.

CH: 375

CYA: 33
 

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With a 4ppm loss in FC overnight we havce proven that organics in the water are being oxidized by the chlorine. It is time to read the SALAM article well, stock up on chlorine (liquid only) and prepare to SALAM.

You have a decision to make. A SLAM at 60 CYA is certainly possible, but needs a lot more chlorine than a SLAM at 30. So, take time and do a partial drain/refill to get the CYA down or just bite the bullet.

At this point do not add chlorine until the FC goes below 10 so you can get an accurate pH reading and adjust to 7.2 with acid.

With a SLAM the first few days set the tone. If you hit it hard and test and adjust back to shock level every hour or two it seems to get the SLAM going better. Witht he weekend in front of us that is the perfect time to work on the
 
Yeah I got my CYA down to 33 last night when I did a partial drain during backwash.

Also my first set of numbers may not have been fully accurate since I did not take the test water from the right depth.

When I get home I am guessing I will be below FC of 10. I will test PH and then get to SLAM probably starting tomorrow afternoon/evening.
 
While better filtration will help get dead algae out of the water, we have proven you have a chemistry problem - not necessarily a filtration problem.

The SALAM will fix most of your problems. Don't get distracted by the filtration at this point You need to kill what is in the water. Filtration is important, but it is really third in line after passing OCLT and CC .5 or below.
 
Just added muriatic acid to lower ph.

LtcnOws.png
 

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