Hayward CL110 Chlorinator Installation Questions

[SharpestJim]

Me again, the newbie...

We just finished getting our 12' x 24' x 54" above-ground pool set-up, filled, and initially shocked. I now need to get to work testing the water and adding chemicals as needed. When we purchased our Hayward EC40C92S Perflex pump/DE filter kit, I also purchased a Hayward CL110 inline chlorinator. I have a couple of questions regarding the installation of the chlorinator, please:

1) The pump/filter kit came with a missing fitting and the installer was not able to get the return hose connected to the filter outlet. I had planned to hard-pipe it anyway, so I went to Lowe's and bought the needed 1-1/2" PVC pipe and fittings. Lowe's did not have any kind of PVC tees or other fittings that would give me the 1/4" outlets that I needed for my chlorinator - or so the guy in Plumbing told me. I ended up finding a brass reducer bushing to allow me to go from a 1/2" NPT outlet tee to the 1/4" fitting for the chlorinator. I've read that chlorine and copper are not good together. Is there a problem using these brass bushing with my chlorinator? If so, I'm sure that I can find a suitable PVC bushing online somewhere.

2) The CL110 instructions show the chlorinator inlet coming from the system between the pump and the filter and the outlet returning AFTER the filter. I get that. You don't want concentrated chlorine going through your filter. The problem is that there is NO space between the pump and the filter in which to install any kind of fitting to get the 1/4" outlet to the CL110. I've attached a photo that shows what I did - I installed both tees after the filter. I can't imagine this not working, but thought that I should check with the experts first. I've got plugs in the 1/2" outlets right now. So if it wont work, it's no problem.

I thought that I would impress some folks with a homeowner's work with PVC. I've gotten pretty good at cutting pipe with a regular hacksaw.

Thanks in advance for the assistance!

 

[domct203]

I think that chlorinater might need to see a pressure difference between the feed and return to work correctly. Hopefully an expert will chime in and I'm wrong.......

That's not for everyday use, is it?

Dom

 

[domct203]

Unfortunately it looks like I am correct and the chlorinator will not work hooked up like you have it.

https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/literature/ChemicalFeeders.pdf

Dom

edit: Do you understand the FC/CYA relationship and what those chlorine tablets add to your pool in addition to chlorine?

 

[poolkid]

I think that chlorinater might need to see a pressure difference between the feed and return to work correctly. Hopefully an expert will chime in and I'm wrong.......

That's not for everyday use, is it?

Dom

You are correct Dom.

If the pressure is the same on both connections there will be no flow. The reason that you connect before the filter and after the filter is that there is at least a 1 to 2 psi difference, even when the filter is perfectly clean.

Also, I would recommend against brass fittings. The tablets are so corrosive that the brass will dissolve very quickly. Then there's the whole issue with excessive cyanuric in the pool with the use of chlorine tabs.

Jim - you might want to skip the tab feeder and find a small reliable SWG for your A/G pool. You'll thank me (or US - the TFP community!) later.

 

[domct203]

............ Then there's the whole issue with excessive cyanuric in the pool with the use of chlorine tabs.

Jim - you might want to skip the tab feeder and find a small reliable SWG for your A/G pool. You'll thank me (or US - the TFP community!) later.

+1

Dom

- - - Updated - - -

Also, you should have a valve and union on the return to the pool. You are going to need to clean that filter eventually.

Dom

 

[SharpestJim]

Well, that's why I have asked the experts. Thanks everyone. I guess it makes sense that the chlorinator would need the pressure differential or it won't feed. No harm. I've got PVC plugs in the tees now and there they can stay. So stay away from stabilized chlorine tablets, huh? I'll take the unopened bucket of tablets back to the store for credit. Anyone wanna buy a CL110? Cheap?

I'm still learning this stuff. I guess I would want to put some sort of shut-off on the return line. The Hayward manual for the pump/filter shows it as "optional". But without it, there's going to be a flood, isn't there? Is there a preferred place for a ball valve? Can I take out one of the two tees and stick it in either the horizontal or vertical section?

One thing I have learned: A wine cork makes a perfect stopper for the return jet when working on piping.

Thanks again, everyone!

 

[domct203]

Great tip on the cork- I'll have to start a collection LOL.

If you put in a ball valve and union you should have no issues putting them in place of the tee.

Dom

 

[phonedave]

Nice looking pipe work, however ......

Every bend you put in that pipe equals head loss. I know it looks pretty the way you did it, but you are loosing a lot of flow. Also, hard 90's also equal lot of lost efficiency. It's better to use sweeps whenever you can.

-dave