My first SLAM....and still SLAM-ing

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C

cata

0
Aug 31, 2015
41
Loxahatchee
Hi, I am new to all this salt systems and all kind of pools actually.
I just replaced my old T-cell-15 (tested in 3 stores and it was dead ....after 6 years) with new one.
My AquaRite board (also few years old) readings are good, 3200ppm salt, 25V, 6amp, -3100, r1.32
Power on and generating on.
I have tested water at 3 different local pool stores, and two said 5 FC and 3 FC, one stored said 0ppm FC. stabilizer 80ppm, 7.6ph, No phosphate.
I have spots of green algae.
The box gets really hot.I have set the board to 90%.
Question: Do I need a new PCB board/panel (GLX-PCB-RITE Aqua Rite Main Circuit Board), is it lying to me that is producing chlorine when in fact it is not?
Thanks in advance.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

See if is, in fact, producing chlorine. Take a sample from the pool and a second sample directly from the return while it set at 100%. Compare the two readings. My bet is its working and algae is eating your chlorine. If so time to SLAM.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Thank you guys...I will try the water test today.
James, how do I check to see if the transformer is the problem? I taught if transformer would be the problem the whole aquarite panel would not work at all.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Just got back from testing the water....see attachment for results...
After adding the acid, chlorine and stop green,like they asked me to, my panel now shows Generating but the numbers I have are 30V and 0.00Amp reading(meaning it is not producing chlorine, right?)
I see that there is chlorine in the pool(the picture attached being from water tested from another spot in the pool), plus the water sample directly from the return shows it is producing chlorine number being higher,the guy said.
Is it normal for AquaRite board system to go on and off during the daily 8 hours cycle? And if yes than panel should not "generating" light on, right?

- - - Updated - - -

img254.jpg
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Yes the power to the cell does go and off during the times when the filter pump is running. The power sent to the cell is fixed and generally is not controllable. What Hayward does is cycle the power on and off to the cell on a percentage basis based on the percent set on your unit. The actual time base depends on your particular unit. Some cycle every 100 minutes and some (like mine) cycle every 120 minutes. Si if you unit has a cycle time of 100 minutes and the setting is at 50% then power will be applied to the cell for 50 minutes and is off for 50 minutes and then the cycle repeats.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

The generating light does not go on and off during this cycling, it stays on. I'll bet money that your problem isn't the SWG, you have something eating the chlorine as fast as its produced. A SWG system is designed to MAINTAIN chlorine levels. It doesn't have the chlorine output to deal with algae already in a pool.

Do you have one of the recommended test kits? If so run a full test on your water and post the results here.

Update: it looks like you are using pool store advice to manage your pool. If you continue to use testing and chemical additions based on advice other than the forum we won't be able to be of much assistance. The methods and advice here will differ and conflict dramatically from theirs. Ours is based on hard science and requires an educated pool owner. Take a look at the info in Pool School, it's the button at the upper right of this page.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Hot is somewhat subjective. I have an Aqualogic which uses the same cell and the box tends to get pretty warm when the unit is running but not hot enough to burn your hand. I just measured the case temperature with an IR thermometer where the transformer is mounted and it is at around 120F and for that transformer, I believe it is well below rating. Plus it has been running that way for 10 years now.
 

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Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

It says at the bottom of the test results that green algae is visible. I think that answers the question of where your chlorine is going. If you want to take control of your pool you are going to have to get a recommended test kit (there are two to chose from), do your own testing, read and study the Pool School articles, and use only advice from this forum. As I said our methods are incompatible with the advice you will get elsewhere. If you are ready to get started, I would suggest you order the TF-100 test kit with the XL option. That give you extra reagents you will need for testing during your battle with algae. It will cost you less than one trip to the pool store charges for the "magic potions" that don't work. Next, stay away from pool stores and only follow what you learn here. Now, while waiting for your new test kit start studying Pool School.

Once you have the tools you need to test your water properly (pool store testing is notoriously inaccurate), you can begin to correct the problem. You will need to test water multiple times a day during a battle with algae . You will turn off the SWG and combat algae by raising the FC to shock level with bleach or liquid chlorine, and keeping it there until it's killed (SLAM). Then you can switch back to SWG to maintain chlorine.

Another tip is to put all the info about your pool,and equipment in your signature line, so we can help you without asking the same question time and again.

BTW; If you do order the TF-100 I strongly recommend you include the SpeedStir. It makes testing so much easier and more accurate.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Ordered my TF-100,the XL option and the SpeedStir today.
Does it make a difference where you buy the chemicals needed? Suggested stores?
chiefwej -"Another tip is to put all the info about your pool,and equipment in your signature line, so we can help you without asking the same question time and again." I do not have the signature option in my "about me" section....
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

If you have even started reading Pool School you would find that in the "Getting Started" page it gives you the instructions. Go to the top of the page, select "settings", scroll down along the left side of the page for "edit signature".

Common ordinary bleach is what you are going to be using the most of to clear any algae. If you have visible algae in the pool, I would suggest that you add a gallon of bleach a day while waiting for your test kit to arrive. If you have a Walmart nearby their Great Value bleach is a good price. Make sure it's ordinary bleach, no non-splash, outdoor, scented, cleaning formula, just plain old laundry bleach.
Everything I'm telling you is in Pool School. You need to read it all, study it, and re read it. There is a lot of information there and it takes some study to digest it all, but with a bit of time and study it all fits together and makes sense. The one article you might focus on now is under "how to" called SLAM it stands for Shock Level And Maintain. This is the process you will be using to rid the pool of algae, but it requires a test kit. So while waiting for a test kit do some reading, and stock up on bleach your going to need a lot if you have visible algae.

The good news is using the TFP methods with a SWG pool, once you get the pool to clear up and in balance the only chemical you will likely be ever using is some muratic acid every once in a while to balance pH.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Hello...have been using my TF-100 and the SpeedStir for my tests....been shocking the pool for 5 days, chlorine going down and adding more, checked level every @ 2 hours.
Now getting chlorine results not dropping more then 1 ppm every 2 hours.
Problem is that my cc is high 2 and 3 with fluctuations.
How do I get cc down? Do I just keep shocking until my cc drops to .5 or less?
Also I have calcium stains on walls and some on bottom of the pool....does this influences my shocking process regarding FC and CC reading?
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

You have to keep the FC level above the shock level at all times. Any time it drops below the shock level you are losing ground. That's the reason we don't recommend shocking a pool, it's SLAM, Shock Level And Maintain. The key is maintain. Once all the algae is dead the CC level will drop. CC is the result of the FC breaking down organic material in the water. Once the FC levels start to hold the CC level will drop.
 
Re: Do I need a new main PCB panel?

Calcium deposits have no effect on the SLAM process. We will talk about that once the SLAM is done. One problem at a time. BTW: When you tested the water, what was your CH reading?
 

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