Can anyone tell me what the TF-100 will do for me that the Leslie's <span style="background-color: rgb(250, 250, 250);"><font color="#333333">Basic Poolcare DPD Test Kit won't. Since I already have the Leslie's kit, is there a cheaper way to assemble the T-100? I'm just trying to make sure I'm not doing something redundant by not picking up the TF-100.
 
List everything that your test kit will test for and we will tell you what it's missing. Although given that it's a basic test kit, it's probably missing many things and thus not worth trying to piecemeal a kit together.
 
And we don't care about bromines so you can only test for two things in that kit. And the only one that's actually useful is the pH because that chlorine test is not nearly as good as what's in the recommended tftestkits.
 
Just so you know, a new pool will have constantly rising pH for some time. So it's not unusual to need to add acid on a very regular basis for the first season. Make sure that you carefully control the pH during this time. Don't overshoot but test and balance pH carefully.
 
Hi, I posted this in one of my other threads, but I also thought it should probably be tracked in my main pool thread. Hope it's OK to post it twice!

I got my TF-100 and just ran it for the first time! Here are my results:

pH=7.4
FC=.5 ppm
CC=1 ppm
TC=1.5 ppm
CH=275 ppm
TA 50-60 (it was light pink at 50 and red at 60)
CYA=20+ (The black dot surely became hazy, but I could always see it.)

I currently have my SWG set at 80% and have not added any chlorine for about a week. My FC results had been fairly consistent around 3 ppm since I bumped the SWG to 80%, but I had a party this weekend, so my swimmer load was fairly high.

I'm a little surprised that my CH was within range. I have white soft chalky deposits developing in the nooks and crannies of my artificial rock work. I'm a little concerned with that and hope you guys can give me some advice.

Thank you!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Have you even looked a Pool School and the TFP recommended levels? Your CYA is way too low, FC too low, CC too high. Also what is your salt level.

Based numbers you are listing you probably have something starting in the pool that is going to require a SLAM.
 
Have you even looked a Pool School and the TFP recommended levels? Your CYA is way too low, FC too low, CC too high. Also what is your salt level.

Based numbers you are listing you probably have something starting in the pool that is going to require a SLAM.

Have YOU EVEN read my posts? All the questions you just asked are in there. Thanks for being as offensive as possible though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I didn't relate your post in the other thread to this one. One of the reasons to keep it all in one thread. Now I realize you are in the process of raising the CYA. Right now you need to add bleach to get your FC up. Once you start adding CYA you should raise the FC to correspond to the new CYA goal. You will have an algae bloom in no time if that FC isn't raised. In fact it may well already be started. Any CC higher than .5 is indicative of a problem.

what size cell do you have in the SWG' T-9 or T-15? You say you have it set to 80%, how many hours per day? I'm using a T-15 in a larger pool and running 7 hours at 40%. But my CYA is at 70. So either you are running a shorter time, have the smaller cell, or the sun or something organic in the pool is eating all your chlorine. The higher than normal CC makes the latter very probable.
 
I didn't relate your post in the other thread to this one. One of the reasons to keep it all in one thread. Now I realize you are in the process of raising the CYA. Right now you need to add bleach to get your FC up. Once you start adding CYA you should raise the FC to correspond to the new CYA goal. You will have an algae bloom in no time if that FC isn't raised. In fact it may well already be started. Any CC higher than .5 is indicative of a problem.

My FC is at 4 now and my CC is at 0. I tested last night. You might recall that I guessed that my FC was very low the day I originally posted because I had had a party the day before. My CYA is now also reading at 60 but I'm waiting my full week to see if that's accurate.

I will post the full results from last night when I get home.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok so I just re-ran my test even though I had done one last night. For whatever reason, I'm obsessed with continually testing my pool! Plus, I wanted to give you the most up to date readings since I said I would post them. Here they are:

FC=3.5ppm
CC=.5ppm
TC=4ppm
CH=300ppm
TA 70
CYA was between the 50 and the 60, so I'm going to add another "sock full" of CYA.

Just so I'm clear, I should be measuring at the point where I absolutely can't see the dot anymore right? It's obviously very subjective, but I'm measuring from when I can't see black anymore. The dot is very very hazy prior to that.

Other than being a little off on CYA, do I look OK? My salt (according to the system) is at 3200 ppm. Guidance on the system is 2700-3400ppm.

Thank you everyone!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Chris,

Since I think I read on your other thread that you just added CYA on 9-29 and today is only 10-2, I'd recommend you wait at least 7 days from the last add to make sure it's all registering in there before adding anymore CYA.

Once you're sure all the CYA you added on the 29th is registering: For your now CYA of 60ppm, your Target FC is 3-4ppm, since you are planning on adding a little more CYA in the near future to get to the CYA 70ppm range after the add you'll need to Target 3-5ppm per the chlorine/cya chart. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

A CYA of 70ppm is where I'd recommend you target for on your next add (again, after you are sure all the other is registering from the last add). The important thing is to be sure to not overshot the CYA level because it is much easier to add more when you check it in a week should it be a little too low then it is to remove it back out should it get too high. If it gets too high the Only way to remove it is to drain it out, and refill with new water which is never fun to have to do. :(.

On maintaining the chlorine levels as long as you maintain your level above the minimum level for your current, or anticipated CYA-If you've added CYA that is not yet registering Target your FC for that anticipated CYA level), If you keep it above the minimum at all times, you should be fine at remaining algae free. It's when the FC level drops below that minimum level for your CYA level that algae can begin to grow.

On days with higher bather loads, heavy rain, etc. it is beneficial to target your FC at 1-2ppm above the Target level as to try to prevent ever having that below minimum drop in chlorine. Being disabled, and also not having a SWG, I always Target my FC at the 1-2ppm higher than recommended level to try to prevent my pool from ever dropping below the minimum for my CYA level which so far has worked out well.

I hope this helps, and have a wonderful night. :)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.