Suz's pool salted today for the first time - any suggestions?

[SuzfromTexas]

Since my new pool was filled a little over 4 weeks ago, I knew it was soon time for the salt startup. My pool guy has been out of pocket for the last 10 days due to his son being in Texas Children's Hospital with meningitis.

A few days after the pool was filled, he pretty much let me follow TFP for watching the chemical levels. Until his son was hospitalized, he came out twice a week to check on the pool.

Today, he came out unexpectedly and added the salt while I was away from home. He left a note saying he would call in the morning. But this evening, he is bringing his son home from the hospital, so he may not be available tomorrow.

I have done a search for newly 'salted' pools, but most of what I found related to how much salt to add and how.
I've also read the article on SWG pools.

I'm going to test the FC and everything else when I get home in an hour or so. The levels were good last night with the exception of CH. I've been slowly raising it, but hadn't finished. It was 200 last night (newly filled, it was 75).

Can I add bleach if the FC is low?

Can we swim tonight?

Some of the articles I read confused me about whether the salt cell should be turned on right away. On or off?

I also read the pool pump should be on 24 hrs after salt is added. Since ours was programmed to shut off at 5pm, I turned it back on to run all night. Is this correct?

Anything else I should know these first few hours/days?

Thank you!
Suz.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You can certainly swim in your pool as long as the water is clear and your FC/CYA ratio is correct.

You should be running the pumps continuously for the next 24-36 hours at least to ensure good mixing of the water. I would also recommended light brushing to help move the salt around and get the water layers to mix.

You SHOULD NOT turn on the cell. The water should mix for at least 24 hours before the cell goes on. Then you should test the salt levels with your K-1766 BUT DO NOT ADJUST ANYTHING. Remember, it is all about making your salt cell happy. If your K-1766 reads 3000ppm and the manufacturer recommends 3600ppm and the cell itself reports 3400ppm and is happy, then leave the level alone. Yes, your water is probably closer to what the K-1766 says but you have to make the cell happy, not your good chemical conscience.

After the mixing period and turning the cell on, I would suggest 8 hour pump run times and 50% power on the cell. Test 24 hours later and see where you are. Adjust pump run times and output % as needed to reach your desired FC.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Oh, and yes you can add bleach to your salt water pool to maintain FC. In fact, just because it's a SWG pool doesn't mean you won't be bumping the FC with bleach every now and then. Sometimes when I know my bather load is going to be higher, rather than turn up the cell, I'll just bump the water before or after with bleach. So don't go throwing away all your clorox bottles just yet

 

[SuzfromTexas]

Thanks, Matt! Some of what you wrote is over my head, but I think when I get home, I can figure out some of the questions I have regarding your reply.

I'll get in the pool and brush everywhere to mix things up.

I have no idea if the pool guy turned the salt cell on or not. But I may be able to tell when I get home. I haven't had pool school yet, so the equipment pad still boggles my mind. But no time like the present to learn. I'll check pool school for the equipment pictures.

Thanks again!
Suz.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

No worries Suz, just post to this thread with as many questions and pictures as you like. I'll be up all night....(mainly because my kids never let me sleep!!!!)

 

[SuzfromTexas]

I really appreciate your help, Matt. I don't want to damage anything the first time the new system begins. I checked out the equipment pictures on Pool School. My son and I both went out with our flash lights and could find only the cylinder looking thing that said AquaPure. We didn't find anything like a wall box as shown in the picture. Maybe that's outdated. And as far as the cylinder thing, we couldn't tell if it is turned on or not.

On the AquaLink wall box, the only light on is for the 'Pool Mode' which I turned on before we left the house around 6pm. No other lights were on red for anything else including the 'auxiliary' spots.

So I checked my remote and the Equipment Status screen reads:

AquaPure 100%
Salt 3100 PPM

and then the usual 'Filter Pump' message that I've seen since the pump start-up.

So...... that sounds like to me that the salt cell is on. How in the world do I turn it off? On one older TFP thread I read when researching before I posted questions, I remember something about a specific sequence of unplugging 'this' before 'that', etc. I don't want to burn up anything.

Will I ruin the cell if I can't get it turned off tonight?

Suz.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Hmmm...sounds like the PB turned on the cell. I'm not familiar with the Jandy SWGs, perhaps others can chime in. If the cell/controller is reading 3100ppm and there's no red lights on anywhere, then I suppose it will be fine. Typically if the salt is low, the unit senses that and turns off the power to the cell so as not to damage anything. Your cell and pool will be fine.

Perhaps the best thing is to list out exactly what SWG equipment and controller you have. That way, folks can give you the best advice. Pictures help too.

 

[wayner]

My son and I both went out with our flash lights and could find only the cylinder looking thing that said AquaPure. We didn't find anything like a wall box as shown in the picture. Maybe that's outdated. And as far as the cylinder thing, we couldn't tell if it is turned on or not.

That cylinder thing is likely the salt cell. It should have a few cables attached to it that run to the controller. Follow those cables (one is a thick black round one for power, the other a thin gray flat one for the sensors) and at the other end you will see the controller. Mine is a gray box that is about 12x10x8" but it is almost a decade old so newer ones make look different.

 

[SuzfromTexas]

That cylinder thing is likely the salt cell. It should have a few cables attached to it that run to the controller. Follow those cables (one is a thick black round one for power, the other a thin gray flat one for the sensors) and at the other end you will see the controller. Mine is a gray box that is about 12x10x8" but it is almost a decade old so newer ones make look different.

Oh thanks! I'll go out and check. I just ran my first set of tests since the salt was added yesterday. From the Pool School page, "Water Balance for SWGs", it looks like I've got some adjustments to make for the new system.

Should I wait another day before adding anything? Does it need time to stabilize?

Oh wait, I just re-read what Joyful said - wait for another 24 hours.

But the salt cell is already on.... I haven't heard yet from the pool guy. His note said he would call this morning.

I was just beginning to feel comfortable with the manual chlorine methods, so now I'm a little unsure about things with the switch-over. I know I'll be fine with it soon, but thanks ya'll for your patience and help.
Suz.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Hey Suz. I think you'll be just fine.

While you wait for the PB, you can always do your own FC testing.

Let us know what size cell you have and what controller you have.


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[SuzfromTexas]

Thanks, Joyful!! I just went out to the equipment pad. This is what I found so far:

PLC1400 is the model number on the AquaPure cylinder - is this what you need?

The controller? Do you mean the remote control? I have an AquaLink PS-8. (if this isn't what you meant, I'm not sure how to find out - I don't see anything on my contract)

Last night I couldn't find the wall box for the SWG like the picture on Pool School.

But just now, I see that it's inside the AquaLink wall box.
Green lights are on for: Cell on; Flow; Reverse.


And out of curiosity, I tested most of the levels about 2 hours ago. In case it helps you guys in some way, here they are:

Water temp: 84

FC: 7.5
CC: 0.0
pH: 7.8
TA: 80

Last Tuesday, the CH was 200 (I was beginning to raise it up with increaser since it began at 75, but I hadn't finished 'slowly' raising it)

Last Sunday, the CYA was 50.

Thanks - infinity.....
Suz.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Ok, so the wall box is the AquaLink RS sub panel where all the power supplies, relays and circuit breakers are. The PS-8 is your handheld remote and the "tube" is the 1400 series SWG which generates 1.25lbs chlorine per 24-hr runtime.

So, with the handheld unit you should be able to adjust the SWG power output. Right now you're at 100% meaning that every 24hrs your cell is operating, it is going to deliver 1.25lbs of chlorine. That's probably way too high as is evidenced by your FC already being at 7.5ppm.

I would wait on your PB or check with him to see what his intentions are. Some PBs startup the cells at 100% to superchlorinate the water. IMHO, I think that's just unnecessary. But you need to work with your PB.


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[ping]

The good news is that the pool is in good shape and the SWG settings are not doing any harm.

You will want to bump the pH a bit lower to 7.5 if the pH rises above 7.8. Keep a close eye on the pH as it could start rising at a faster rate now that the SWG is turned on.

Add some CYA to raise it to 70-80 range.

The SWG will need to be programmed to lower the output % some. You need to get the builder give you a complete lesson on how to operate all of the equipment. Make sure you take notes and add any labels to the plumbing if you don't have them labeled already.

 

[SuzfromTexas]

Ok, so the wall box is the AquaLink RS sub panel where all the power supplies, relays and circuit breakers are. The PS-8 is your handheld remote and the "tube" is the 1400 series SWG which generates 1.25lbs chlorine per 24-hr runtime.

So, with the handheld unit you should be able to adjust the SWG power output. Right now you're at 100% meaning that every 24hrs your cell is operating, it is going to deliver 1.25lbs of chlorine. That's probably way too high as is evidenced by your FC already being at 7.5ppm.

I would wait on your PB or check with him to see what his intentions are. Some PBs startup the cells at 100% to superchlorinate the water. IMHO, I think that's just unnecessary. But you need to work with your PB.


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This is great info! I was shocked that the FC was so high without any bleach boost. If I don't hear from the pool guy by mid-afternoon, I'll text him my FC level. He's been pretty trusting of me since he watched what I did with the manual chlorine system guidance TFP gave me. He said I had the best looking water of any of his customers. (thank you guys!!!) So maybe he will tell me how to adjust the cell delivery amount. And I will definitely test again this evening after a full day of hot full sun today.

Suz.