Shocking An Indoor Pool???

[rpape01]

Shocking An Indoor Pool???

I am looking for tips to shock an indoor pool.

I have a 25000 gallon vinyl pool. The pool is not new but I have owned it for about 2 years. I have a Hayward chlorinator that I have been using with great success. I have not had to do much of anything to the pool until about a month ago. The TA was suddenly up to 220 so I added dry acid as instructed by the pool store... This was the beginning of a 2 week battle. I was finally able the get the TA down (muriatic acid and aeration) and PH stable but am now having an issue with too much CC. I have never had to shock the pool in the 2 years I have owned it.

FC = .5
TC = 2
PH = 7.2
TA = 110
CYA = 50
TDS = 1000

After I tested the water, I added a gallon of bleach to increase the FC. I was not trying to shock the pool tonight but was temporarity increasing the FC till I shock it. My concern is that if I used bleach to shock the pool it would take FOREVER to come back down since the pool does not receive much sun light (indoors....). Is there another product I can use to shock it?

I found this forum the other day and am excited about the BBB method. Thanks for the help.

 

[JasonLion]

Welcome to TFP!

Many people like to use MPS for shocking indoor pools. MPS, potassium monopersulfate, is called various things in the store. Many of the non-chlorine shock products are MPS. MPS costs more than chlorine, but it does dissipate fairly quickly so you can start swimming again quickly.

It is generally not such a good idea to use a tablet chlorinator with an indoor pool. Chlorine tablets are made of trichlor, which adds CYA to the water. Eventually your CYA level gets too high and you start to have problems. Your CYA level isn't dangerously high yet, but it is high enough that it probably is the reason your CC level got so high. The higher the CYA level, the more chlorine you need to get the same effect.

 

[rpape01]

Reading about my CYA lead me to this site. I have been using the tabs for 2 years with no problems but am looking into switching to something else. I like the BBB method but the tabs are just so easy! I have used bleach yesterday and tonight...

Are there any other tabs that do not add to the CYA?


Thank you for the time on the potassium monopersulfate. I will try that this weekend. How long does it take for the chlorine to go down to safe levels? (how long till I can jump in!)

Thanks.

 

[rpape01]

Another note... I had a leak at the filter for the last 2 years.... I would have to add 1 in or so of water every month. I think this has helped keep my CYA down.

I replaced the gasket SEVERAL times, cleaned the surfaces a MILLION times.... Finally gave up and had a very knowledgeable pool man come out... The pool store had been selling me private labeled Orings that were NOT the same as the OEM orings. The private labeled Oring was smaller and felt like a different durometer material.... I will never buy anything but the OEM gaskets from now on.

This is a warning to everyone. Do not buy Leislies Pools gaskets. They mark them "Hayward" but they are not the same. The Hayward Orings will have markings to show you the are OEM. If anyone wants more info, let me know.

 

[JasonLion]

Every kind of chlorine has some disadvantage. The slow dissolving tablets all add CYA. There are some fast dissolving tablets, much less convenient, made of cal-hypo, that add calcium instead of CYA.

The advertising on MPS says you can swim in 15 minutes. I like to give it at least an hour. One thing to keep in mind is that MPS can read on the test as if it was CC for up to a couple of days, which can create some confusion. There is a test kit you can get to prevent the MPS from affecting the chlorine results (Taylor K-1518), but it tends to be difficult to find.

 

[waste]

I gladly welcome another Nutmeg Stater to TFP!! (we're gaining on all those Texans )