About to purchase all new equipment / Intelliflo VF Flow que

vinnie

0
Mar 12, 2009
68
I think i'm going to spend the money and totally redo my entire system. 20'x 50' 46k gallon pool with 1 1/2" plumbing.

So far I've made my mind on the Filter

Pentair Quad DE 100

Salt system i'm good on as well

Aquapilot Digital with 60 cell

Cleaner - Still up in the air between Polaris 280 or Aquabot Turbo / Dolphin Pro / Blue Diamond

Pump - Very interested in what I'm reading about Intelliflo VF. But i'm very worried about what the max GPM my system can handle with just 1 1/2" piping. Am I wasting my money on the VF?
 
The real value of the IntelliFlo is that you can run it at a very low speeds, which can save a substantial amount of money. You can also run it at higher speeds to vacuum or to backwash a large filter. The smaller plumbing won't interfere with either of those things.

The problem with small plumbing is that it creates extra friction, which prevents really high GPM rates. But I don't know of any reason you would need really high GPM rates, so there shouldn't be any problem. Unless you have a waterfall or fountain or other water feature that requires high flow rates, you should be fine.

Of course, if you can increase the pipe size the whole system will be more efficient.
 
Get a filter with 2 inch inlet and outlets. The pump has 2 inch fittings.
I changed over my piping in the pump house to 2 inch.
I used the valves on the lines as reducers.
I even used one of these reducers ...... 2 in. to (2) 1 1/2 in.
picserve.cgi


How many inlets and returns do you have?

I know once you get use to the VF pump, you'll really like it.
 
I have two returns and two intakes. There is a valve just after the filter where I can turn either return on or off. There is a similar valve just before the pump for the intakes. I'm not sure if they are 2" with a reducer or not, I have to take a look at them.
 
Sounds like you have three-way valves. You could use a 1 1/2 - 2 inch three-way valve.......come in with two 1 1/2 inch lines and out of the valve with a 2 inch line. Any connection can be 1 1/2 in. or 2 in.

726014-1_9.jpg


Picture taken from West Side Whole Sale Company


I bought my valves from this company; had good service from them.

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/pool-s ... spa-valves


Good luck on what ever you do.
 
Exactly what I have, BUT here is my problem. All of the lines are hard wired or glued into the (2) valves right now all with 1 1/2" pipe. Should I cut everything completely out and put in new valves? Or should I just cut the lines just before the valves and put an adapter to go form 1 1/2" to 2" then run new 2" to the filter and pump?

Also, just saw today when I was out there that one of my 1 1/2" pipes and elbows are cracked going from heater to pump. So now I have a good reason to at least replace all of that piping with 2".
 
If you have to replace some of the plumbing anyway, it might make sense to replace the pad plumbiing with 2". If you do that, I would use a 3-way valve instead 2:1 adapter. There is a small difference in head loss but not enough to worry about. However, a 3-way is nice to have in order to isolate the suction lines for draining or troubleshooting. Also, the change to 2" line will more than make up for the difference in head loss.
 
How do those Jandy 3 ways work with both 1 1/2" and 2" - which model would that be that I need to order?

I think i'm pretty much going to cut everything out and start from scratch since I think i'm going to replace the filter, pump and add the salt system. Do I also need to install check valves? If so where would they go?

Is there anything else I need to add?

My only worry is that the current valves are attached to the 1 1/2" pipes coming up from the concrete. I don't have a whole lot of room to cut and put the new valves in. One mistake and I could be in trouble. Plus on my pipes coming up for the skimmers they used some sort of semi flexible 1 1/2" which really worries me.

Any thoughts?
 
The Jandy valves take one size of pipe by putting the pipe inside the sleeve on the valve and a different size of pipe by putting the pipe over the outside of the sleeve on the valve. The valves come in two sizes, one works with 1 1/2" and 2" pipe, the other works with 2" and 2 1/2" pipe.

Absolute minimum you need about 1/2 of an inch of pipe to glue a standard fitting on, more is better of course. Alternatively, there are pipe connectors that fit inside the pipe, which will work even if the pipe is flush with the top of the concrete. The more drastic option is to break up some of the concrete and connect to the pipe underground.

A lot of flexible pipe will work with standard PVC cement and fittings, but some requires special barbed fittings. Take a look at how it is connected currently and use the same approach.
 
great, that makes me feel better. Being a novice the problem Ialso have messing with PVC is not cutting it straight!!! Any pointers for that? Also do you use the normal primer / glue?

Another question, my pool has a slide. To make it work I have to use my garden hose and connect it rubber hose that is connected to a small pvc pipe coming out of the concrete. Is there a way to hook that to the pump to just use the pool water to make it work?
 

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That looks like Tigerflex, standard PVC primer and cement.

You can plumb the slide to the return side of the plumbing if you want. You will want to have a separate valve for it, so it can be turned on and off independently.
 
vinnie said:
great, that makes me feel better. Being a novice the problem Ialso have messing with PVC is not cutting it straight!!! Any pointers for that? Also do you use the normal primer / glue?

Another question, my pool has a slide. To make it work I have to use my garden hose and connect it rubber hose that is connected to a small pvc pipe coming out of the concrete. Is there a way to hook that to the pump to just use the pool water to make it work?

Hi Vinnie!
If I want to make sure to get a straight cut through a tube do I take a sheet of paper and slide it around the tube, that way I get a template to draw a line from. Not the most proffesional way to do it, but it works if you don't have a tube cutter!!
 
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