Introduction

[550MSport]

Hi everyone. New user here. Completely new to pools. Have always wanted one, and finally bought a house with a 20K Gallon inground pool. First thing I did was buy the Taylor kit to do all my testing.

Having an issue and am not sure what it is. I can't figure out if it's some form of algae of just pollen. It will collect overnight on the bottom, sometimes in the "crecives" of corners. My shallow end is completely clear, but my deep end is somewhat cloudy. It's a sand like brown/yellow color. and when you wave your hand over it in the pool it distributes like a dust cloud only to settle down at the bottome again a few hours later.

I will post all my test results when I get home, but as of yesterday my TC was in the 6-7ppm range and my CC was around 1ppm, which I believe is a sign of a problem.
I vacuumed the pool on Saturday and 80% of it is gone and I believe the residual 20% is what I missed while vacuuming...

How can I be sure it is dust/pollen and not algae?

Can someone explain what the FAS/DPD test is? I thought my taylor kit provided me with all the chlorine testing I needed.

Bleach or Chlorine to Slam and how much? I am leaning toward using bleach but wanted some guidance..

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome! Pollen and dirt tends to accumulate in drifts on the floor in places with slower circulation. Dust/pollen will keep re-appearing, but will never accumulate on the walls of the pool. Green algae sometimes grows in mats on the walls or floor. Gritty is usually dirt; squishy is usually pollen; slimy is usually algae. There are occasional exceptions to all of these descriptors which is why the test results are so important. The fact you have a CC of 1ppm does indicate chlorine is trying to kill something.

Which Taylor kit do you have? If it's the 2005, it didn't' come with the R-0870 powder and R-0871 drops (FAS-DPD) which is critical to proper FC management. You can order it from the TF test kits (TF-100) link below. To SLAM - regular bleach - generic is fine. When we see your readings (especially CYA) we can confirm how much bleach you'll need.

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During a SLAM, you will also use the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart which is especially important to understand.

 

[Chuckiechan]

Do you have an automatic cleaner system?

You probably have the OTO chlorine test system. That's OK for now. We like to see Taylor chemicals used so everyone is on the same page, and reasonably accurate. TF-100 is a good one.

I have a $5 Walmart OTO/PH test for quick tests, or for the family when I'm out of town. It's idiot proof when you pool is in pretty good shape. But I have a Taylor K-2006 kit for serious testing.

 

[chiefwej]

Welcome,

So that we can better help you without asking the same questions over and over, it's important that you put all the detail of your pool in your signature. You can see my signature and others for details. We love to help other pool owners learn how to have crystal clear pools with little effort, using some basic scientific principals, and inexpensive chemicals found in your local grocery or hardware store.

 

[550MSport]

I purchased the TF-100 kit. So I can do the OTO as well as the DFD/FAS testing. I left my notebook at home, so I do not have my numbers with me right now. I will add my signature details this evening when I get home.

Just spoke with my wife and she says the pool is better (clearer) but the yellow/brown stuff is clinging to the sides in the deep end..I guess I'm not going to get lucky with it being pollen.

I will redo all my chemical tests when I get home and post new numbers. In the mean time, I am keeping the filter running and putting a new chlorine tab in and asked my wife to buy a few bottles of bleach at wal-mart to have on hand..

Appreciate all your help guys...Still trying to figure all this out.

 

[Texas Splash]

TF-100 great! You may want to have her remove the chlorine tabs. We really don't recommend their use because of the side-effect of increasing CYA to an unmanageable level. Also, if she's up to the task, any bit or brushing to expose that algae now will help as you start to put bleach in the water. We'll look for those test results later.

 

[550MSport]

Too late. I will have to take them out when I get home. Should I brush the sides of the pool prior to taking my chemical tests? Should I remove the tabs and put a gallon of bleach in first?

Apologize for this folks, I am very new to this and not sure what steps to take in what order. I am going to purchase the bleach on my way home today. Any guidance on how much I should buy to avoid multiple trips?

 

[Texas Splash]

No sweat. Ask away! You can add bleach to the water any time as needed. When you get home, simply remove the tablets/pucks and save them for later like when you go on vacation or something. You can (and should) brush the pool surfaces at any time to agitate the algae or whatever is attempting to grow on the walls. That will also help the bleach to get to the organic material and destroy it.

Also, at some point later, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

 

[550MSport]

I have already had her remove them and she is going to the pool store to pick me up a new brush (the one left by the previous owner is falling apart). I will also do an entire new set of chemical analysis and post it all for you guys to take a look at.

Just one clarification...I won't be using my chlorine tabs anymore?

 

[Texas Splash]

No need to use tabs unless you go out of town and don't have anyone to add chlorine for you. It will probably be rare that you need them. At $99 a bucket, that's a good thing.

 

[550MSport]

Wonderful!! (note the sarcasm)..I just bought a $100 tub of them...where is that for sale forum again

 

[Texas Splash]

Doh! I know that feeling.

 

[550MSport]

Wife is going to pick me up 6 bottle of bleach too...No swimming for a few days I guess!

 

[Texas Splash]

Actually, you CAN swim as long as your FC is not above your SLAM/Shock level based on the CYA on the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. For example: If your CYA is 60 and your FC SLAM/Shock level 24, then you can swim in the water as long as you don't go over 24. You may not want to wear you newest swimwear (just in case), and take a shower afterwards, but for your body it is fine. Many people hop-in because it's easier to scrub and clean some parts of the pool from inside rather than out.

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And as a reminder, the generic Wal-Mart "Great Value" bleach is just fine. It doesn't have to be a brand name bleach. Save a few bucks.

 

[Chuckiechan]

Do you have an automatic pool cleaner? That will keep the bottom clean.

It's surprising how much junk is in the air. When I brush my steps where the cleaner doesn't get I and see a lite cloud of dirt from construction dust, pollen, and what not.

 

[Crackerjack4u]

Hello 550MSport, and welcome to TFP,

One good thing about the pucks/tabs that you've already opened is they'll last in storage for a looooong time, so you can use them through many years of vacations. And now that you're not having to buy the expensive tabs all the time, and all the money you'll be saving using the TFP method, you'll have more money for vacations. So its a win-win situation, and you're pool will be in awesome shape again before you know it. Again welcome, and have a wonderful day.