TF 100 Test kit arrived

Got the 3 gallons in > 1 hr ago
10:20pm tests results
FC 2
CC 16.5
TC 18.5

Per my calculator (so please correct me), I need to:
add 328oz of 6% bleach to get my goal of FC 10?


Questions FC test Line #3: “Count wach drop until the solution turns back to clear”
Entire cylinder gets clear for a few seconds or STAYS clear?

TA Test:
Line #2 “…R-0007”, my bottle reads R-007, the bottle has the right stuff, right
Line #3” …Continue until color changes to red”
Not light red/pink, beyond this to red?
 
Rule of thumb for titration tests. Keep adding titrant drop by drop until the last drop produces no further color change and then don't count that last drop. For example, on TA test you add 5 drops and the solution stays green. On the 6th drop it starts to change. On the 7th it's sort of a light pink/red. On the 8th it's red. 9th drop produces no further color change. Don't count that 9th drop. Your endpoint is 8 drops or 80 ppm TA.
 
Johnny B said:
Everyone is offline/sleeping.
So I'm going to put 2.5 gallons in (328 oz) now.
You have a lot of CC in the pool. let it circulate overnight now. You need some sunlight to break down the CC along with the chlorine. What you need now is a big bottle of POP (Pool Owner Patience). Apply liberally to yourself! :-D
 
Thanks fro the speedy replies.
I don't quite have the timing of this forum down.
I take it that by "You have a lot of CC in the pool. let it circulate overnight now. You need some sunlight to break down the CC along with the chlorine." that you mean do not add anything tonight? Or do I add the 2.5 gal?
Sorry for hassling you guys
 
Bummer, I didn't see your last post. So did not add the bleach.
I misunderstood your 10:59pm post & thought you were saying add no more?
You guys can be blunt w me, I take no offense, if I knew what to do I wouldnt be asking.

Mon 4/6, weather: 50-60F daytime, night 30-40F, today is rainy & cloudy, tomarrow will be cloudy,
9:15am test results
FC 1
CC 15
TC 16
I need to:
add 370 oz of 6% bleach, right?
I have little time until evening & probably won't post till then.
Awaiting your reply
 

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duraleigh said:
Responders,

I think Johnnyb has probably reversed FC and CC results. John, can you confirm that?
Very possibly, unless there is a TON of ammonia in his water. In that case we need chemgeek. Once Jonnyb can confirm his testing results for us we can send a PM to chemgeek if needed.
Remember this is a pool that was just opened and we still don't know the CYA levels. It is very possible that the pool has an ammonia problem (which is not uncommon in just opened pools).
 
about 11:00 am ; cleaned filter grids again, completely, new DE powder, added the 2.9 gal of bleach. Was mostly sunny & cool today, not rainy

6:00pm test results
pH - 7.5-7.8
TA - Total Alkalinity 120
FC - Free Chlorine 4
TC - Total Chlorine 28
CH - Calcium Hardness 350
CYA - Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) 40 maybe 38

I see you guys don't want the CC (but it is on the test kit paper) & I think I may have been posting that in prior posts. The CC above was 24 obviously.
Water is fairly clear till I brush it.

Is my FC target still 10?
So I go add 246 oz of bleach?
Do anything else (since you have all the #'s on this test)?

Please advise.

Thanks
 
We do want to know your CC level each time. But you can put down either CC or TC, they both give the same information.

Given your CYA level of about 40, your FC target for shocking should be 15 from now on (unless CYA changes). That means that you add 452 oz of bleach this time.

It is unusual for CC to go up that quickly. Some of us have been wondering if there is any chance that there are testing errors. Now would be a good time to double check your water testing procedures for the FAS-DPD chlorine test. An FC level of 4 means 8 drops of titrant to turn the sample from pink back to clear the first time, and then a CC level of 24 would mean 48 drops of titrant to turn the sample from pink back to clear the second time (if you are doing the test in the standard way).
 
I have compared my post above that reads:
9:15am test results FC 1 CC 15 TC 16
to my paper on the test kit.
I don't think there was an error. The instruction & my post & the paper chart on the kit cover all go in that order & so I don't think I goofed.

Notice that I asked:"Questions FC test Line #3: “Count each drop until the solution turns back to clear”. Entire cylinder gets clear for a few seconds or STAYS clear?

Someone answered & so perhaps my most recent test at 6:00 pm is more accurate? If anyone else wants to add their answer, great.

I notice several tests turn the ENTIRE solution to an indicated color but it will not STAY that color beyond a few seconds- what do I want- the # of drops that changes the entire solution maybe just breifly, or, the # of drops that changes the entire solution PERMANENTLY?
 
color change for the FC test should be stable clear for about a minite then a pinkish color will reappear as the sample starts reacting with monochloramine. You want to add titrant until the color stays clear for a slight amount if time....be sure to swirl the tube well for aobut 10-15 seconds between drops. When it turns clear and holds then add the 5 drops of the next reagent and repest the titration to get your CC (If it stays clear when you add the third reagent you have no CC)
Remember to titrate until the last drop produces no color change and then don't count the last drop.

The chlorine test needs to be done without hesitation and stopping in between steps.
 
The instructions are very clear, I'm careful, & will admit an error so hard to believe I'm testing wrong. But hey, several pros all wondering- then it must be me.
When someone chimes in w an answer to"...the # of drops that changes the entire solution briefly vs. permanently ...". I will go & re-test my FC CC & TC. I'll await that before I go add the bleach I suppose- unless you tell me to go add it reguardless.

Thanks
 
You do not wait for the color to change to clear permanently. If you do the test correctly, the first time it stays clear for several (call it 10) seconds, it will stay clear for more than a minute. Likewise, if you are doing the test right it will turn pink again a couple of minutes after you are done. If you take too long doing the test, the behavior will be different, pink will return more quickly, and the results will not be dependable.

Part of the trickiness of the wording, is that the sample can turn clear for a moment, usually for one second, maybe two, and then turn just slightly pink again. That does not count as the end, though it does mean that you are getting near the end. There are also some complex moments right when a drop is first added, where part of the sample is clear and part of the sample is pink. It is possible to misinterpret those moments.
 

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