New Pool! Noob owner with test results

[LJay]

Hello everyone, thank you for taking the time to give advice. Here are my test results using the Taylor K-2006.

FC 1.6
CC 0
PH 7.4 - 7.6
TA 140
CYA 50-60
CH 80

I'm a completely new pool owner with a new pool and the pool training I received from my builder was a joke at best. Research has lead me to this site. I've been using 3" tabs in the auto feeder but my reading on this site has me thinking I should discontinue use pretty soon. I'm also concerned about my CH levels testing so low. Any advice on getting me off to a good start would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DaninFLA]

hi there, well you are lucky that your CYA levels are still manageable, but you should stop tabs right away. you don't want your CYA higher than where you are at. your FC is way too low. how does your water look?

for your CYA, your absolute minimum FC level is 5ppm! see link:
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
you should target to hit 7 or 8 when you dose, so that when it goes back down it doesn't ever go below 5ppm. you need bleach in there asap

yes, for a plaster pool like you need to get your CH up asap. you can pay 3x as much at a pool store, or order online at home depot, etc. this is from pool school:


CH - Calcium Hardness

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.


how does the water look? is it crystal clear? any cloudiness or visibile algae??

 

[JVTrain]

First things first. NEED MORE FC IN THE POOL! Refer to the CYA/Chlorine chart in my signature. You need to get the FC up to the recommended level for 60 CYA ASAP to prevent algae problems.

Your CH is indeed fairly low for a plaster pool. I would test the CH of your fill water as well. You may be adding CH in your fill water and a new plaster pool will leech out some calcium after install. They gave you no instructions on starting up the pool or anything that you must do in order to maintain your warranty?

 

[jagger2005]

Welcome to TFP!

 

[LJay]

hi there, well you are lucky that your CYA levels are still manageable, but you should stop tabs right away. you don't want your CYA higher than where you are at. your FC is way too low. how does your water look?

for your CYA, your absolute minimum FC level is 5ppm! see link:
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
you should target to hit 7 or 8 when you dose, so that when it goes back down it doesn't ever go below 5ppm. you need bleach in there asap

yes, for a plaster pool like you need to get your CH up asap. you can pay 3x as much at a pool store, or order online at home depot, etc. this is from pool school:


CH - Calcium Hardness

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.


how does the water look? is it crystal clear? any cloudiness or visibile algae??

First things first. NEED MORE FC IN THE POOL! Refer to the CYA/Chlorine chart in my signature. You need to get the FC up to the recommended level for 60 CYA ASAP to prevent algae problems.

Your CH is indeed fairly low for a plaster pool. I would test the CH of your fill water as well. You may be adding CH in your fill water and a new plaster pool will leech out some calcium after install. They gave you no instructions on starting up the pool or anything that you must do in order to maintain your warranty?

Yes I read the chlorine/CYA chart here. It's kind of confusing since various sources says ideal range for chlorine was 1.0 - 1.5 ppm or 2.0 - 4.0 ppm and chlorine above 4 ppm could cause irritation. I thought I was in the appropriate range. Water is crystal clear.

My plan is to stop use of tabs and switch to bleach or liquid chlorine. I'll get my levels raised but i'd love to see some info debating these test kits or at least confirming chlorine above 4 ppm is harmless. Why is it stating 1.0 - 1.5 as being ideal? So confusing.

My CH was never tested at start up. I received start up instructions but chemicals were never mentioned beyond testing FC, PH & TA. I'll raise my CH levels asap as well. Should I do this slowly over a couple of days?

Sorry total noob here but i'm ready to learn

 

[robertmee]

My plan is to stop use of tabs and switch to bleach or liquid chlorine. I'll get my levels raised but i'd love to see some info debating these test kits or at least confirming chlorine above 4 ppm is harmless. Why is it stating 1.0 - 1.5 as being ideal? So confusing.

Because you're reading the pool store mentality that doesn't take the science of CYA/Chlorine relationship into account. Continue to read and study here. Most of us keep our FC in the 5 to 7ppm range. With a CYA of 50 if you keep FC in the 2ppm level you will soon have algae. You are safe to swim in water up to shock level and for 50 CYA that's 20ppm FC. The first step into Trouble Free maintenance of your pool is to quit listening to the pool store and study the science of pool care here in the pool school links. As long as you keep trying to reconcile the TFP science with Pool Store hocus pocus then you will remain confused.

The science: http://standards.nsf.org/apps/group_public/download.php/5891/Chlorine-CYA.pdf