Hello all, I am a first time pool owner and also a first time poster. I love my pool but it doesn't love me back. Here in Fl. It has been a very hot and rainy summer. About a month ago my pool turned a lovely shade of green and it has been a daily battle ever since. My pool is 10,400 gallons, I dumped in 8 gallons of bleach, that killed all the algae (turned white) and made the pool a lovely blue. The problem is it never cleared the cloudiness. I have run the pump 24/7 for the last 4 weeks. I vacuum, I brush, I clean the filter everyday sometimes twice a day and nothing helps. And now after all this work its tuning green AGAIN. Can someone please help. I still have a crumby test kit pool style 4 way( will replace next week). My chlorine is 3, ph is 8.5, and alkalinity at 70. Just bought another 12 gallons of bleach and am preparing to start AGAIN.
Help I have algae AGAIN!
- Thread starter Sherry Sweeny
- Start date
Do yourself a favor and order the TF-100 kit from tftestkits.net It's the best value you can get for a test kit and has everything you need to manage your own pool.
Check out the links in my signature for the basics to start with in ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Once you've gone through that, you'll be better prepared for what's needed to rid your pool of algae. You need to SLAM the pool. Shock Level And MAINTAIN. It's a process that works because of reliable home testing with your TF-100 and consistent dosing of chlorine until you pass the criteria in the method. Links to that method and the necessary CYA/Chlorine chart in my signature.
With your Intex cartridge filters, your pool is going to take ages to clear. I would suggest stepping up to a sand filter/pump set up when money allows as well. Intex pumps and cartridge filter just aren't the best quality and don't go a good job of filtering out particulates and dead algae once you've killed it all off, so the clarity would take a long time to return.
Because you have been using trichlor pucks, your CYA level may be very high and a partial drain may be required before SLAMing the pool. You won't know that until you get your own test kit and we can help you from there.
Welcome to TFP!
Check out the links in my signature for the basics to start with in ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Once you've gone through that, you'll be better prepared for what's needed to rid your pool of algae. You need to SLAM the pool. Shock Level And MAINTAIN. It's a process that works because of reliable home testing with your TF-100 and consistent dosing of chlorine until you pass the criteria in the method. Links to that method and the necessary CYA/Chlorine chart in my signature.
With your Intex cartridge filters, your pool is going to take ages to clear. I would suggest stepping up to a sand filter/pump set up when money allows as well. Intex pumps and cartridge filter just aren't the best quality and don't go a good job of filtering out particulates and dead algae once you've killed it all off, so the clarity would take a long time to return.
Because you have been using trichlor pucks, your CYA level may be very high and a partial drain may be required before SLAMing the pool. You won't know that until you get your own test kit and we can help you from there.
Welcome to TFP!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I love my TF-100 Sherry! You will too. Don't forget to include the "speed stir" so you can mix like a pro. Makes a BIG difference. Welcome to TFP.
Hello again, I took your advise and purchased the Taylor 2006 test kit . CYA was at 100 so I drained 1/2 the water refilled and slammed the pool. My numbers today are chlorine at 5.2 combined at 0.2 ph at 7.4 alkaline at 140 CYA at 45. My question now is should I use acid to lower alkalinity or leave it since other numbers are good. Pool is still cloudy, running filter 24/7. It's been 3 days since finishing slam. Thank you for any help you can offer.
Just maintain you pH between 7.4 and 7.8. When it rises above 7.8, then use acid to lower back to 7.4. Use Pool Math for your calculations, making sure you input all your values into Pool Math as your TA level will affect how much acid is needed to produce the desired pH change. Eventually your TA will settle into a place where you get lesser pH rise over time.
You can also use the 10 mL sample size for testing FC/CC as it saves reagents and is accurate enough for daily testing, especially during a SLAM. Also, if your pool is cloudy, you have not finished the SLAM and should maintain elevated FC levels. See the SLAM criteria for finishing/passing.
You can also use the 10 mL sample size for testing FC/CC as it saves reagents and is accurate enough for daily testing, especially during a SLAM. Also, if your pool is cloudy, you have not finished the SLAM and should maintain elevated FC levels. See the SLAM criteria for finishing/passing.
Hi Sherry,
Congrats on purchasing the Taylor Kit, Im very pleased with mine.
I wanted to know how your pool is looking besides the cloudiness. Any visible algae in the pool?
I see that you recently slammed the pool. Have you passed the OCLT? This is an important step in assuring that the SLAM worked properly and you have gotten rid of all of the algae. (Link in my signature)
If everything is passed. Just need time for the pool filter to remove all of the suspended particles in the pool.
How old is the filter? Is it due to be replaced? Maybe that is why you are not gettinh the filtration that is desired, even with it running 24/7.
How are you continuing the chlorination? Have you eliminated the pucks and going with bleach?
Congrats on purchasing the Taylor Kit, Im very pleased with mine.
I wanted to know how your pool is looking besides the cloudiness. Any visible algae in the pool?
I see that you recently slammed the pool. Have you passed the OCLT? This is an important step in assuring that the SLAM worked properly and you have gotten rid of all of the algae. (Link in my signature)
If everything is passed. Just need time for the pool filter to remove all of the suspended particles in the pool.
How old is the filter? Is it due to be replaced? Maybe that is why you are not gettinh the filtration that is desired, even with it running 24/7.
How are you continuing the chlorination? Have you eliminated the pucks and going with bleach?
Good catch JV! I was wondering about that myself. Finished SLAM but cloudy?? Didn't sound right to me.
As mentioned the SLAM procedure requires passing three criteria to be successful:
1) The water is clear (& no visible algae either alive or dead)
2) You can pass an OCLT
3) Your CC's are = or < 0.5ppm
Did you pass #2 or #3?
Also, it's fine to use the 10ml sample size for a FC resolution of 0.5ppm, that's fine for managing the pool and will save on reagents.
I would think that with the required amount of testing needed to maintain FC during SLAMming & using a 25ml sample you must be through that 0.75ml bottle of FC reagent R-0871 by now.
Dom
Here's a starting point: "Pool Style 4 way test kit. Have been using chlorine pucks in floater and bleach."
Your CYA level is probably really high, so the FC level to actually kill algae has to be really high, and the FC level just to keep it at bay is going to be higher than 3.
The solution is pretty simple: follow the SLAM instructions. All of them, including the parts about a FAS-DPD test kit and not even bothering if CYA is too high.
Your CYA level is probably really high, so the FC level to actually kill algae has to be really high, and the FC level just to keep it at bay is going to be higher than 3.
The solution is pretty simple: follow the SLAM instructions. All of them, including the parts about a FAS-DPD test kit and not even bothering if CYA is too high.
Hi all, I thought that I had done the slam write. I drained 1/2 the water to get cya down to 45 and then kept the chlorine at 12 ( about 3 days ) until it only dropped 1.2 over night. I don't see any signs of green anywhere and combo chlorine is at 0.2. I did lose about 1 point of chlorine last night but I thought that might be because it rained. When I clean my filter it's a milky tan color, I don't know if that's dead algae color or not. This is my first year with a pool and my first time slamming . I'm afraid I'm lost.
HI again,
For a CYA of 45, you should be slamming at 18ppm and not 12. This might be your problem.
SLAM stand for Shock Level and Maintain. You must get yourself to the shock level (in your case 18ppm) and maintain it until you accomplish the 3 requirements.
As mentioned by domct203
the SLAM procedure requires passing three criteria to be successful:
1) The water is clear (& no visible algae either alive or dead)
2) You can pass an OCLT
3) Your CC's are = or < 0.5ppm
I would test the water at least 4 times a day (depending how quickly you are losing FC) and continue adding bleach to maintain the minimum of 18ppm. If time constraints prevent you from testing often, you can go higher than 18ppm to buy yourself more time between tests.
Furthermore, depending how old your cartridge is, there comes a point where cleaning it no longer works and has to be replaced? Do you know how old the cartridge is?
Will you keep using bleach or switch back to pucks? Keep in mind that the pucks will gradually increase your CYA, eventually keeping a proper FC to keep the algae dead may become difficult.
For a CYA of 45, you should be slamming at 18ppm and not 12. This might be your problem.
SLAM stand for Shock Level and Maintain. You must get yourself to the shock level (in your case 18ppm) and maintain it until you accomplish the 3 requirements.
As mentioned by domct203
the SLAM procedure requires passing three criteria to be successful:
1) The water is clear (& no visible algae either alive or dead)
2) You can pass an OCLT
3) Your CC's are = or < 0.5ppm
I would test the water at least 4 times a day (depending how quickly you are losing FC) and continue adding bleach to maintain the minimum of 18ppm. If time constraints prevent you from testing often, you can go higher than 18ppm to buy yourself more time between tests.
Furthermore, depending how old your cartridge is, there comes a point where cleaning it no longer works and has to be replaced? Do you know how old the cartridge is?
Will you keep using bleach or switch back to pucks? Keep in mind that the pucks will gradually increase your CYA, eventually keeping a proper FC to keep the algae dead may become difficult.
Sometimes it helps to read others algae clearing posts, to get a good understanding of the process. You have to meet all three criteria, included clear water, before letting the chlorine level drop. Keep reading, and ask specific questions here, there are plenty of people willing to help you!
I must have some how mis calculated the shock level. The filter is only 2 weeks old. When you say to maintain shock level until the water is clear do you mean until all cloudiness is gone? I know that seems like a stupid question but it's been like a week at this color. How long do you think that would take?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,754
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes Sherry, please maintain the SLAM/Shock level as noted on the Chlorine/CYA chart until your pass all 3 SLAM criteria, one of them of course being clear water. Once you are at the point of completion, if we suspect you have a "faint" cloudiness remaining, we can always try to address that at that time. But overall, it should be mostly clear to where you can easily see the bottom. PS - There are NO silly questions. 
You said that you have had the algae problem for over a month.
If i am understanding correctly, you changed the cartridge 2 weeks ago or have you just been cleaning it?
I would raise my FC to 18ppm today, and see if you pass the OCLT tonight, (you can use the 10ml sample of water to save reagent, 1 drop is 0.5ppm FC).
This evening as the sun is going down, you can add your final dose of Bleach to get to 18ppm. Test the water 30min later. The next morning, before the sun rises on your pool. Test the water again and see if you lost more than 1ppm of FC. (remember to remove all other sources of chlorine while you slam as not to create false results)
If you dont pass, the cloudiness may be the residual algae and you will have to continue to SLAM until you do pass the OCLT and hopefully the water clears up at the same time.
If you do pass and the CC is lower than 0.5, but the pool is still cloudy we can troubleshoot more.
When you see cloudy, what do you see? Are you able to take a picture and post it so we can see?
Also Can you post full readings, so we can calculate CSI to see if the water is balanced as well.
FC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Borates (if applicable)
Salt (if applicable)
If i am understanding correctly, you changed the cartridge 2 weeks ago or have you just been cleaning it?
I would raise my FC to 18ppm today, and see if you pass the OCLT tonight, (you can use the 10ml sample of water to save reagent, 1 drop is 0.5ppm FC).
This evening as the sun is going down, you can add your final dose of Bleach to get to 18ppm. Test the water 30min later. The next morning, before the sun rises on your pool. Test the water again and see if you lost more than 1ppm of FC. (remember to remove all other sources of chlorine while you slam as not to create false results)
If you dont pass, the cloudiness may be the residual algae and you will have to continue to SLAM until you do pass the OCLT and hopefully the water clears up at the same time.
If you do pass and the CC is lower than 0.5, but the pool is still cloudy we can troubleshoot more.
When you see cloudy, what do you see? Are you able to take a picture and post it so we can see?
Also Can you post full readings, so we can calculate CSI to see if the water is balanced as well.
FC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Borates (if applicable)
Salt (if applicable)
It can take the Intex cartridge filter a little longer to clear the pool. Putting a stocking (knee high pantyhose) over the return, or, if you have the over the side skimmer, in the basket, it can help catch the finer stuff.