1st Test Results with TF-100

[robaz]

Just got my kit fri. these are the results>>>>>>>>>>>

FC 4
CC 0
PH 7.5
TA 160
CYA 100
CH 300
I did everything twice being a noob.....It only too 4 drops of 0871 to turn it clear..then after adding 5 of 0003 it turned a very pale pink...as far as the FC & CC go......for TA it took 16 drops of 0009 to turn it green to red....16 x 10 = 160.....?????????

 

[pooldv]

That's right.

CYA test only goes to 100 so it could be 200 or 300, we've seen it many times. Try the extended test to see where it really is. Extended Test Kit Directions

How does the water look?

Chlorine is way low for your CYA, Chlorine CYA Chart

Have you read this? Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[Richard320]

Repeat the TA test and wipe the tip with a damp paper towel before each drop. Extended Test Kit Directions

You might want to repeat the CYA test using 50-50 pool and tap water for the sample portion. It's in that same thread.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Wait- if it took 4 drops of 0871 to clear that means your FC is 2 (4 divided by 2=2) and then adding the 0003 causing it to turn the palest of pink requires you to use the 0871 again to determine if 1 or more drops of it clear the tube again. 1 drop would mean your CCs were 0.5. That's an acceptable number and some pool's are always that but no more.

pH and CH look fine

... but CYA at 100 is iffy. Can you take half pool water and half tap water and mix equally. Then use this water to perform the test again anddouble the results. You might find your CYA is actually higher than just 100.

 

[robaz]

pool is crystal clear

- - - Updated - - -

how bout the TA of 160? i did wipe the top... as far as cya come up to the bottom of label with 50/50 pool and tap..then add the 0013 to top of label...double reading?

 

[Richard320]

You have the dilution test figured out. You can use one of the test vials to precisely measure out the tap/pool samples and mix them, and then pour that into the CYA mixing bottle.

Clarity isn't a reflection of CYA - only lack of algae. When I took over my pool, I was at 220-240 CYA and it was clear. The uncertainty of the test number is due to 1:3 and 1:4 testing. If CYA is only 100, you can maintain it at that level, you'll just need to keep FC up above 8 at all times. And you'll only be able to trust the pH reading when the Fc is at the low point of the day, below 10. If CYA is above 100, a partial drain to reduce it will make your life easier.

 

[robaz]

You have the dilution test figured out. You can use one of the test vials to precisely measure out the tap/pool samples and mix them, and then pour that into the CYA mixing bottle.

Clarity isn't a reflection of CYA - only lack of algae. When I took over my pool, I was at 220-240 CYA and it was clear. The uncertainty of the test number is due to 1:3 and 1:4 testing. If CYA is only 100, you can maintain it at that level, you'll just need to keep FC up above 8 at all times. And you'll only be able to trust the pH reading when the Fc is at the low point of the day, below 10. If CYA is above 100, a partial drain to reduce it will make your life easier.

Just did the dilution..It came out to 60-80 which means my cya is 120-160.......it 115 out here now so i wont be able to drain...just backwash like crazy i guess...

 

[robaz]

What do i need to do as far as keeping the fc up?

 

[Richard320]

Just did the dilution..It came out to 60-80 which means my cya is 120-160.......it 115 out here now so i wont be able to drain...just backwash like crazy i guess...

Not at all. Your water is clear. There's no reason to rush to drain water as long as you maintain adequate FC for your CYA level. I did it for a year.

What you can do is use the waste function on the multiport valve and use pool water to irrigate. That way you don't disturb the sand bed inside the filter or lose sand. It just pumps water out of the pool and straight out the backwash hose. So soak the lawn and the flowerbeds with pool water, and then replace the pool water with the water you would have used watering the landscape.

If your pool is 50" deep, changing out 2" of water will lower CYA 4% every time. If CYA is 140, you'll go down to 135 the first time. If you can lose 3" before you start sucking air in the skimmer, 131. You can see that you can get below 100 pretty quickly that way.

The high CYA by itself is not a problem if you have no algae. What is the problem is that the FC levels to keep algae away are so high they render the pH test useless. Check the pictures. The second problem is that if you do somehow get algae, shock level will be above 50 --- there isn't a test kit available that can measure that high! And the amount of bleach you'd need will look like this

What do i need to do as far as keeping the fc up?

Set up poolmath in the last row and it will autofill the levels for you. Just stay above the minimum FC number.

 

[robaz]

allright i got ya...i have 12 gal of 8.25.......what should i aim for to keep the algae at bay.....how much daily???

 

[robaz]

the min FC for what cya level....I'm totally confused Rich

 

[Richard320]

the min FC for what cya level....I'm totally confused Rich

What keeps algae at bay is "unbound" chlorine. Some is bound to the CYA, and some is floating around looking for a fight. The key to having enough around to fight algae is the FC/CYA ratio. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

You're off the chart, but just double what it says for half your CYA. Do you think your CYA is 160? Half of 160 is 80. The minimum FC for 80 CYA is 6. Double that. Your minimum FC is 12. Never let it get below that and you won't get algae. When you dose, target 15. The next time you test it should be 12 or above. If it's below 12, then you need to target 16. Each pool is different. Some lose 2 FC per day, some lose 3.5. Who knows what yours is without testing and tracking? All you need to do is make sure you never dip below 12.

But that puts us back to the rub: the pH reading is questionable when FC is above 10. How far off? I don't know. I'm not a chemist. This is why bringing the CYA down to 120 or less will help you out. If CYA is lowered, minimum FC can be lowered, and the pH test will be accurate. I guess I'm just sensitive about dumping water because of the drought we're in. If the pool is green with algae and you have 160 CYA, you have no choice. Dump it. But you water is clear, and you don;t want to drain a couple feet out in the heat. So bring it down a few inches at a time.

 

[robaz]

Ok thx.....Sorry for sounding like an idiot...but this is all kinda new to me...A backwashing i will go....Take Care and thx again :handshake:

 

[duraleigh]

Robaz,

You are off to a great start having a good test kit but I suspect you are not spending enough time in Pool School. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry", it a cornerstone and will answer most of the questions you are asking. We'll keep helping, too.

 

[robaz]

Thx Dave.....I never did pay attention in school....I'm 60 now do i still have to sit in the corner????

 

[Richard320]

Ok thx.....Sorry for sounding like an idiot...but this is all kinda new to me...A backwashing i will go....Take Care and thx again :handshake:

Waste, not backwash. There's no reason to get the filter all disturbed unless you need a backwash. The water goes out the same pipe, it just bypasses the filter when it's set on waste.

 

[robaz]

Waste, not backwash. There's no reason to get the filter all disturbed unless you need a backwash. The water goes out the same pipe, it just bypasses the filter when it's set on waste.

Rich .....i have the push down for backwash pull up for filter thats it?????

 

[Richard320]

Rich .....i have the push down for backwash pull up for filter thats it?????

Bummer. Yeah, backwash it is, then.

 

[duraleigh]

do i still have to sit in the corner????

Not until I send you the Dunce Cap that has been on my head for 70 years

 

[robaz]

Not until I send you the Dunce Cap that has been on my head for 70 years

:study: