First TF-100 test results!

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zamazing

Well-known member
Jul 18, 2015
130
Bergen County, NJ
I just received my TF-100 test kit and have been looking forward to seeing the results. I also ordered and received the Taylor TF-1766 Salt test kit and the Magnetic stirrer (best $30 you can spend in my opinion).

The water in my pool has been pretty clear, thanks to the dual SWG's, but I wanted to transition from test strips to a real test kit so I can stay on top of anything that develops. Here are the results of today's test:

FC - 4.5
CC - 0
Ph - 7.8
CH - 250
TA - 110
CYA - 50 (45 second reading)
Salt - 3800

If I understand the TFP method correctly, I should increase my CYA to around 70 and keep the FC levels where they are. Not sure what to make of the TA and CH levels. TA seems too high and CH too low.
 
You did the right thing with the TF-100. A few quick thoughts:
- For SWG system, you'll want your CYA slightly higher to about 70
- pH is on the high side, so if it creeps over 7.8, hit it with some muriatic acid to stay in the mid-7s

Other than that, you should be well on your way. Nice job!
 
Hello zamazing,

It looks like you've been doing a pretty good job maintaining up to this point. Like Texas Splash said just a few minor tweaks here and there, and away you go.

Making the decision to transition from the strips to the TF100 is the best decision you could have made to be able to completely, and accurately maintain your pool.


LOL So all I can say is everyone had better look out!!!! zamazing will now be unstoppable with that new test kit.

Well done, and a very wise investment.

Have a wonderful day!!! :)
 
Thanks for the encouragement. It feels great to better understand the chemistry behind my pool and to have the right tools to stay on top of things.

I'm a little confused about the Total Alkalinity number as I'm getting some different direction from the Pool School section of the website. In the article "Water Balance for SWG's" http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator, it recommends adjusting TA to 60-80 ppm and highlights this recommendation saying :" (This is IMPORTANT!)".
On the other hand, the article "Lower Total Alkalinity" http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity states that "You shouldn't lower TA just to reach a target number. Make sure you actually have one of the above issues before lowering your TA."

So which one is it? Should I be lowering my TA from 110 to 70?
 
There is not any need to add any calcium as 250 is in a good range for all pool types. Edit your signature to reflect what type of pool surface you have.

Have you been checking the cells for scale? If the cells have been building up with scale then lowering the TA will help prevent that from happening also as it will drive the CSI into the negative range. It is ideal to have the CSI to be a little negative in SWG pools as the scale will be minor to nonexistent.

This is the way to Lowering Total Alkalinity.
 
Hi Zamazing,
the reason the confilicting posts or articles about TA is because there is a LOT of chemistry going on behind the scenes.

To try and summarize it, the TA buffers how quickly the pH rises. It also plays a factor into teh health of your plaster pool surface.

Taking into account the Calcite Saturation Index, the TA scale can be very wide. The recommended levels referred to in Pool School are a basic guideline which are intended for newcomers to basically care for their pool.

The more in depth of subject of CSI isnt largely taken into consideratin in the recommended levels. In almost all cases, if you maintain the recomended levels, there will never be a problem. But depending on many factors, in the Long Run, an adjustment to recommended levels may be in order. But it is certainly NOT as critical as many other paramaters. AND, all pools are a bit different, they have their own personalities and especially TA will vary from one to another.

In trying to keep things simple, it's best not to try and make things complicated. TFP is about teaching people about pool care and water chemistry. For now, until you get over the learning curve, I would recommend to keep it simple. Stick with the recommended levels until you get your feet wet, then if you want to dive into the Deep End, and get into the finer tunings of water chemistry, then that would be the next step. But get the basics down first.

I hope this helps to make you feel a bit better about the conundrum.

zamazing said:
Thanks for the encouragement. It feels great to better understand the chemistry behind my pool and to have the right tools to stay on top of things.

I'm a little confused about the Total Alkalinity number as I'm getting some different direction from the Pool School section of the website. In the article "Water Balance for SWG's" http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator, it recommends adjusting TA to 60-80 ppm and highlights this recommendation saying :" (This is IMPORTANT!)".
On the other hand, the article "Lower Total Alkalinity" http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity states that "You shouldn't lower TA just to reach a target number. Make sure you actually have one of the above issues before lowering your TA."

So which one is it? Should I be lowering my TA from 110 to 70?
Click to expand...
 
UPDATE. I added one gallon of Muriatic Acid yesterday to get the TA down. PH dropped to 7.5 as expected and TA dropped to 90. Here are the new numbers:
FC - 4.5
CC - 0
Ph - 7.5 (target is 7.8 so I can add more MA and drop TA)
CH - 250 (target is 300)
TA - 90 (dropped from 110, target is 70)
CYA - 50 (target is 70)

Put in 8 lbs of Stabilizer using the sock method to try and increase CYA to around 70. I also have the Spa blowers on in order to increase Ph while keeping TA constant. Is it safe to assume that the spa blowers count as aeration and will cause the Ph to go up?
 

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Everything looks like it is balancing out nicely. I like to always quickly run the #s through Pool Math myself to make sure the adds are being calculated correctly, and you are right on the money :). Keep up the great job, and Have a wonderful day.
 
Nice.
targeting that slightly higher pH and raising your CH by 50 and lowering your TA, puts your CSI at -.1
(noting wrong with it now... just sayin).

excellent plan.

zamazing said:
UPDATE. I added one gallon of Muriatic Acid yesterday to get the TA down. PH dropped to 7.5 as expected and TA dropped to 90. Here are the new numbers:
FC - 4.5
CC - 0
Ph - 7.5 (target is 7.8 so I can add more MA and drop TA)
CH - 250 (target is 300)
TA - 90 (dropped from 110, target is 70)
CYA - 50 (target is 70)

Put in 8 lbs of Stabilizer using the sock method to try and increase CYA to around 70. I also have the Spa blowers on in order to increase Ph while keeping TA constant. Is it safe to assume that the spa blowers count as aeration and will cause the Ph to go up?
Click to expand...
 
zamazing said:
Put in 8 lbs of Stabilizer using the sock method to try and increase CYA to around 70. I also have the Spa blowers on in order to increase Ph while keeping TA constant. Is it safe to assume that the spa blowers count as aeration and will cause the Ph to go up?[/COLOR]
Click to expand...
That is usually the best aeration method one can use for the pool if the pool has a spa.
 
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