Thanks, everyone! Just get the test kit already!

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njboater74

njboater74

0
Aug 15, 2015
18
Lawrenceville, NJ
I stumbled upon TFP like a lot of folks -- after getting a stubborn green pool.

While I definitely was sold on the system after the green pool started to clear up in literally minutes, I didn't fully commit to it because I didn't take the time to really understand it. So I'd wind up with a greenish pool just a couple weeks later, which I would easily clear with enough bleach. Not what this system is about.

I finally ordered TF-100 this year and committed to holding my FC up to the right levels based on the FC/CYA chart. It's been clear ever since.

The mistake I made about test kits was presuming that it was about being able to test for different chemicals and conditions (such as testing for CYA and CH). Since I had a kit that could test FC, CC, pH, and TA, I could just take it to the pool store for those occasions I needed to know CYA and CH.

Then I realized that the right test kit is not (just) about testing for more conditions, but about getting accurate, quality results. How could I possibly hold FC at 6ppm with a test kit that only measured up to 5, and even then just gave a range of 3-6? How could I maintain a shock level of 20ppm when, according to my test kit, 6ppm and 20ppm were indistinguishable.

Thanks, everybody, for the great advice and getting me on the right track. Now I'm looking forward to making a contribution.
 
Preach it!

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Thank you for your kind words! TFPC is all about the testing and the knowledge it gives you to take control of your pool. Every day we see pool owners who construct beautiful pools costing $25K or more who balk at the idea of spending $68 on a high quality test kit! I'm all for saving money but this is not the place to scrimp! I know the first time they walk into the pool store to get the "free expert testing and advice" they will walk out having spent far more than $68! Sadly the will probably go back several times before they decide to live with poor quality water.

For those out there who are not convinced, a high quality test kit is an investment in the life of your pool. Without a high quality test kit you risk damaging your pool with too low or too high CH, too low or too high pH, and risk your health with FC too low for the CYA level. Many of the "quick fix" algae solutions sold by pool stores contain copper which can stain light colored hair and plaster surfaces and the stains are difficult to remove.
 
Excellent post! :)

TFP is all about teaching people how to care for their pool and keeping it sanitary and free of algae. We only promote adding chmicals that your pool needs. If you dont have a proper test kit, then you cant know what the pool parameters are, or determine what is needed.

You have passed the 1st requisite in now understanding the need for the test kit.

You are home free now. No more green pools and expensive chemicals for you!

Welcome to the world of Troube Free Pools!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html


Enjoy



njboater74 said:
I stumbled upon TFP like a lot of folks -- after getting a stubborn green pool.

While I definitely was sold on the system after the green pool started to clear up in literally minutes, I didn't fully commit to it because I didn't take the time to really understand it. So I'd wind up with a greenish pool just a couple weeks later, which I would easily clear with enough bleach. Not what this system is about.

I finally ordered TF-100 this year and committed to holding my FC up to the right levels based on the FC/CYA chart. It's been clear ever since.

The mistake I made about test kits was presuming that it was about being able to test for different chemicals and conditions (such as testing for CYA and CH). Since I had a kit that could test FC, CC, pH, and TA, I could just take it to the pool store for those occasions I needed to know CYA and CH.

Then I realized that the right test kit is not (just) about testing for more conditions, but about getting accurate, quality results. How could I possibly hold FC at 6ppm with a test kit that only measured up to 5, and even then just gave a range of 3-6? How could I maintain a shock level of 20ppm when, according to my test kit, 6ppm and 20ppm were indistinguishable.

Thanks, everybody, for the great advice and getting me on the right track. Now I'm looking forward to making a contribution.
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