Yearly results and progress - Levels that change

Catanzaro

Platinum Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 30, 2014
3,508
Monmouth County, New Jersey
I had a difficult time giving this thread a name. Attached is a condensed spreadsheet of only testing that was done with the TF-100 test kit for my pool. I have followed the instructions to a T. The kit stays inside and water bottle goes from pool to inside home after water has thoroughly mixed for at least 30 minutes before testing. Testing is always done in a.m. prior to any additions unless otherwise noted. The temperatures are based on the forecasted weekly results based on http://www.weather.com

Any PH changes (down only) is because I added either dry acid and now switched to muriatic acid. This happens every 3-5 days as needed (which you may not see on sheet). Daily, I use the Taylor K-1000 to make sure I have TC and to check PH. Every 3-5 days, I must add 10 oz. of muriatic acid to lower PH. This tracking has made me understand my pool's behavior. CYA was also increased in the beginning of the year (with liquid conditioner). I know that I should have used the sock approach, but figured the $$$ saved here was worth spending on the liquid stuff.

What I am trying to get a feel of this why my CH has slowly been decreasing over time. Is this normal? There has been very little water replacement with City water (maybe 5 times at 6" each time). Guessing about 300 gallons each time. The remainder is from rainfall. Raised my PH only once with 1/2 box of Borax. Have added liquid stabilizer, muriatic acid and of course 12.5% liquid chlorine.

I target additions of 3 ppm daily and then have to skip a day here and there if levels are too high. In the beginning, my % was off as bleach was of a lower concentration than I thought. The pool consumes about 2 to 2.5 ppm on average day. I even go back weekly and figure out the average loss per day. This is simple as you take beginning TC, subtract from ending TC and divide by 7 days. This provides you the average daily consumption. No other chemicals were need. I am guessing $350 for a total of 5 months will be the final cost this year.

Slowly, my TA has been decreasing and hopefully this will stabilize the rising issue with the PH. This also could be due to the rotating 360 degree heads, which create a lot of surface water movement and may just be normal. Once my TA comes down to about 80, then I will go from there. I have no issues adding 10 oz. of muriatic acid every few days. It is embedded in my brain. Each and every time I look at the water, a smile comes to my face. That crystal clear. BTW, my liner IS NOT bleached as I have said good bye to the pool store very early on. Ironically, I have not come across one pool this year that the liner was not either bleached or heavily stained. Not a trace or spot of algae.


POOL TRACKING SYSTEM ) 2015 updated 08-15-2015 (HIDDEN COLUMNS) ENLARGED.jpg

Please remember that the spreadsheet has a lot of hidden columns and rows. I have not spent more than a few minutes daily taking care of the pool. Liquid chlorine has been added at least 5 of 7 days. I can fine tune the additions, but it is so much easier to remove 64 oz. from one gallon and add to another gallon. If I am over a few ppm on average, I believe that is fine and no harm can be done.
 
I will remove the highlights and make the fonts larger. This could work. Please give me a few minutes.

Attached a new one, but the old one did not disappear (with highlights) Tried to remove, but no luck. It is not even showing up on the thread, but still there.

All done, figured it out.
 
That's a nice looking spreadsheet Cat. It looks like you put a lot of time, and effort into creating it. LOL and I also understand now why you said it is "a bit detailed." One thing about it, that bad boy speed sheet will keep you on track knowing where you're at now, where you're going, and where you've been. Well done! Have a nice day :)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yes I can see them now. What a pretty pool.

Thank you. I actually took the photo's with I-Phone. Because this did not work, I turned the JPEG pictures to a PDF. Then I turned the PDF back to a JPEG. Adobe allows this and it is usually the trick. Possibly because of the resolution. You will need either Adobe professional or Standard.

As you can see, there is a reflection of the diving board. Drink my coffee in the a.m. on white chairs. Feel's like vacation, but then reality sets in! LOL
 
Water replacement can account for the drop in CH, but you should also see a corresponding drop in CYA. Have you actually been checking CYA, or just filling in the last value?

I have seen a small drop in CYA. I fill in the amount weekly, but test monthly, and as we all know the "black dot" is always hard to figure out. Stare at the tube long enough and you start seeing things. Next test is in about 7 days and if CYA is at 40, I will adjust levels. Last time I checked it was at 50. The CH drop has only been over the last few weeks and CYA was tested about 3 weeks ago. (Just looked at records). I have used a lot of solution for other people who just can not understand why CYA is over 100 in their pools. No more testing after this year and they must purchase their own TF-100 test kit. Some people have.

Question: Where do I start adding CH to increase levels. I know that in liner pools it is not a big deal. Thank you.
 
I have seen a small drop in CYA. I fill in the amount weekly, but test monthly, and as we all know the "black dot" is always hard to figure out. Stare at the tube long enough and you start seeing things. Next test is in about 7 days and if CYA is at 40, I will adjust levels. Last time I checked it was at 50. The CH drop has only been over the last few weeks and CYA was tested about 1 month ago.

Question: Where do I start adding CH to increase levels. I know that in liner pools it is not a big deal. Thank you.
You don't. Your vinyl pool doesn't care; there's no plaster to etch.

However, low CH can allow the water to foam. I didn't believe it myself until after I collected a spa-full of rainwater and set things to filter the dust out and, yes, it foamed. It went away quick enough as soon as it started mixing with the high CH pool water, but I can attest it's true. So... if you start seeing bubbles on the surface and it bugs you, raise CH. You can watch for end of season sales and get some Cal-hypo to chlorinate with, which will raise CH for you. A 25 lb bucket of 73% cal-hypo will raise CH by 104. It will also add 148 FC, which should keep you going for a couple months.
 
Rich320:

I stand corrected. CYA is at around 40 at this moment (Wow, a big drop in one month as we had a lot of rain and evaporation causing new fill water). Still ok with this level and will adjust FC accordingly. I will look for 25 lb. bucket of 73% cal-hypo and price it out now and later. I would rather keep my levels between 100-200 than not.

The only other item is that the CYA should be at about 30-35 before pool is closed. Last year, I was at 50 when the pool was closed. Upon opening, I was at 30. Should I increase CYA prior to closing or wait until next year? Any chance CYA could turn into ammonia? If I had very little CYA in the pool, say 20 ppm for example upon opening the pool, would that be a problem? Thank you.
 
Rich320:

I stand corrected. CYA is at around 40 at this moment (Wow, a big drop in one month as we had a lot of rain and evaporation causing new fill water). Still ok with this level and will adjust FC accordingly. I will look for 25 lb. bucket of 73% cal-hypo and price it out now and later. I would rather keep my levels between 100-200 than not.

The only other item is that the CYA should be at about 30-35 before pool is closed. Last year, I was at 50 when the pool was closed. Upon opening, I was at 30. Should I increase CYA prior to closing or wait until next year? Any chance CYA could turn into ammonia? If I had very little CYA in the pool, say 20 ppm for example upon opening the pool, would that be a problem? Thank you.
You're asking the wrong guy about closing. My pool is open year round even if the water is too cold to swim in.
 
It is more of a CYA question. The pool was closed for 7 months. Opened up early too avoid heat and algae. Pool cleared up in 4 hours. I lost 20 ppm of CYA, probably 2 ppm per month plus my cover had a rip in it. I probably pumped water out and eventually filled, back and forth, accounting for the remainder of loss.

This year and a new cover. I am just wondering if I should allow the CYA to go down lower, or does it pose some sort of threat. I wish the pool could stay open longer, but not in NJ. Considering the temperatures drop quickly in October and November, there usually is no threat of algae. Chances are that I can keep the CYA that low, but wanted to know what the best level would be for closing, given that the pool has 7 months to rest.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.