C New

[C New]

First time pool owner and I REALLY wish I had spent some time here at TFP prior to having a pool built in 2013. I would have done some things differently for sure! This is our 2nd swim season and I'm just now getting a handle on how things work. I'm tired of testing three different ways, getting readings that are all over the place and never feeling confident about what I should or should not do. "Pool guy" comes every other week to test water and add chemicals but it's hard to check his work when I cant even duplicate his readings. I am about to order the T-100 kit as that seems to be the most esteemed kit available. Thanks so much for all the great information and please be patient as I learn to use this forum.

 

[JVTrain]

You won't regret ordering the TF-100. Once you have it, forget the pool guy and save the money doing it yourself. SpeedStir is a VERY nice option and it makes testing fun and I believe more consistent.

Ditch the Nature2. At the very least don't replace the cartridges. Not sure on the newer configs of the Nature2 but I removed the mineral pellets from my cartridge and reinstalled it so I wouldn't have to patch PVC plumbing. Nature2 Express mineral removal

 

[borjis]

You'll be much happier with that kit. It's the Rolls Royce of test kits.

 

[C New]

I don't understand - why would you have to patch pvc plumbing? So mineral cartridge doesn't really do anything but dig in my pocket?

 

[JVTrain]

If you just take out the cartridge in my set up, there would be a fountain of water coming out near the return plumbing. Has to be installed. Only other way would have been to cut the mounting block out of the PVC and put in a straight patch with couplers. You can see it in that thread, the dark blue plastic below the cartridge when mounted to the plumbing.

Minerals do have antibacterial and anti-algae properties but you need high concentrations of them (copper and silver) for it to actually work well. High levels would surely lead to staining of pool surfaces and green hair for blondes swimming in the pool. Chlorine is an effective sanitizer all by itself and metals are just a problem waiting to happen without tangible benefits when proper chlorine levels are maintained. So yes, just digging in your pocket and opening up potential problems.

 

[chiefwej]

1. When you order your T-100 add the SpeedStir. Don't even ask why, you can just thank me later. If you are having any algae issues also add the XL option.
2. While waiting for delivery, spend your time reading, re reading, and studying all the info in Pool School. It's the button at the upper right of this page. It will seem confusing at first, but will slowly all start to fit together and make sense.
3. Take a look at Pool Math (also a button at the top), so that you begin to understand how to use it.
4. When the T-100 arrives you will want to fire your "Pool Guy", since no one can maintain the pool easier, better, and cheaper than a TFP educated pool owner.
5. Any questions or problems you have, there will always be an expert here to help you out.

Welcome to the world of Trouble Free Pool.

 

[C New]

Just ordered the kit and Speedstir and can't wait to get this process under control. Thanks a million!

- - - Updated - - -

Ok I see what you mean about the plumbing. I replaced the cartridge in June but will pocket that money from now on.

 

[duraleigh]

C New, No kidding, your eyes will be opened to pool management.

I can tell you are willing to learn and there are hundreds on this forum willing to teach.

You will enjoy this ride, we promise!!

 

[C New]

I've been reading on this site for a few weeks and have already gone from preschool to third grade. Thanks so much for sharing your experience.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!

I would recommend you look at the link the JVTrain posted and get the pellets out of your water now and not wait for all the metal to be in your water.

 

[JVTrain]

Welcome to TFP!!

I would recommend you look at the link the JVTrain posted and get the pellets out of your water now and not wait for all the metal to be in your water.

Just try to do it a little neater than I did... without breaking threads and going wild with the power drill!

 

[C New]

Mine is a different model so instead of drilling out pellets I should be able to just put the old, used up cartridge back in to plug the opening. The mineral cartridge and the SW cell are in the same canister but each has its own cap.

 

[jblizzle]

Regardless, do what you have to do to get the pellets out of the water.

 

[C New]

Ok mineral cartridge is out. BTW we have well water but don't have any problems with household use. Until test kit gets here I only have strips and pool store for testing and of course they never agree. I took a sample to pool store yesterday and got the following results:
FC/TC 9.8
CC zero
ph 8.1
TA 77
CH 190
CYA 75
but strips show:
Chlorine between 3-5
ph 7.5
TA 80
CYA between 50-100
I added 4 lbs Calcium+ yesterday and I've reduced the SWG output. I'm not aerating. So should I just wait for the test kit to get here or is there anything alarming that needs to be dealt with immediately? It's hard for me to know since I don't know which test is more accurate. We've had 100+ degree days for a while so I was afraid to bring chlorine down too quickly but temps are back to mid- high 90's now.

 

[jblizzle]

There is nothing really wrong in those numbers.

 

[pooldv]

Hard to know which is more worthless, test strips or pool store testing. Most likely they are both wrong. I would let it ride until you get the test kit. Keep the FC between 8-10.

 

[C New]

Will do. Thanks so much for the help.

 

[C New]

Kit came today?! I took a sample and got to work and my numbers are all over the place.
FC 16
CC 0
CH 575
TA 120
CYA between 50&80 (don't have a trained eye for the black dot. Does cant see mean can't see clearly or can't see at all?)
ph 7.8
Salt 3300
i did the chlorine test 4 times to be sure. A rain/wind storm had just passed through so there is a lot of debris in the pool but water is still clear. Outside temp is 78F (much better than the 100+ drought we've had) and water temp is 88F.

so if I understand the chart I need to bring the chlorine level down and bring TA down - right? Is calcium far enough out of range that it needs changing right now or should I leave it alone and let it drift down over time?

chlorine is the easy fix - set output to zero or turn pump off - right?

 

[chiefwej]

All your numbers look fine. 7.8 is the top of the normal range for the pH. Youwill bring that down to 7.2 iwhen it goes any higher. All you need do is turn the adjustment on the SWG down a bit and let the FC level come down over time.

 

[C New]

Well that's easy. I guess I'm trying to make this harder than it is ?. So TA and CH not a problem?