Aquapure 1400 low salt/bad sensor?

[Macinsac]

I have an Aquapure 1400. About 3 weeks ago, I started to get a low salt indication, making the cell turn off. I cleaned the cell; sensor and pool filter, and then was getting correct salt readings 3.1-3.2, cell on and functioning properly. After about a few hours, the reading starts dropping to 2.8, 2.6, Etc. until it gets low enough to turn the cell off. This takes about 1-2 days. I then can remove the sensor, clean it with a green scrub brush, re-install it, and then it will read 3.1-3.2 again. I'm not sure what to do. It seems to me if the sensor is bad, cleaning it would not make it start working. Any suggestions?

 

[ping]

Welcome to TFP!

How old is the SWG?

Is there white scale on the sensor or inside the cell?

Have you verified the salt level with a salt test?

Post water test results.

 

[Macinsac]

Welcome to TFP!

How old is the SWG?

SWG was purchased and installed July 2010

Is there white scale on the sensor or inside the cell?

Build up in generator, cleaned with muriatic acid, sensor was clean

Have you verified the salt level with a salt test?

I have not verified the salt. According to the Aquapure at the end this winter about 2.8-2.9, then added salt in the spring, it has held at 3.1-3.2. Pool has always been stable with chemicals. I have never had a reason to believe the sensor was wrong.

 

[jblizzle]

A 5 year old SWG ... would not surprise me if the cell was at the end of its life.

 

[JamesW]

Here is a test procedure you can do to check if the problem is the trisensor or the circuit board. There are three test buttons on the circuit board.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test
buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’
key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It
should read 75° F or 24° C.
Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’
key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front
cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

The flow sensor should have a small adaptor board and the adaptor board should have the jumper installed.

Also, have the salt level checked.

 

[Macinsac]

I found more of my records, I did replace the generator in September 2014.
I performed the test you outlined, results as follows: 3.2GPL, 74*, 90*
I could not locate the small adapter board, so not sure about the jumper.

I had Leslie’s test the water, here are the results
Free Chlorine 7, Total Chlorine 7
Salt 2400
Hardness 220
Cyanuric Acid 60
Total Alkalinity 200
Ph 8.0
Acid Demand 8
Phosphates 1000

Leslie’s Pool said to add muriatic acid to correct the alkalinity and phosfree to reduce phosphates.
So I know I need to add salt, still not sure where the problems lies with the Aquapur

 

[jblizzle]

Well, if you do not stop trusting pool store testing and invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits you are destined to have more problems in the future.

You can not just add acid to "fix" the TA. You have to follow a process, although this is low priority: Lower Total Alkalinity

And forget about phosphates.

 

[Macinsac]

I believe I have a nice test kit, a Taylor K-2005. Leslie's confirmed my tests. What I don't have is a test for salinity, thus the reason for taking it in. Any ideas on the Aquapure?

 

[jblizzle]

Close .... you need to add the FAS-DPD Chlorine Test to give you the equivalent of the recommended K-2006.

 

[JamesW]

If 2400 ppm is your actual salt level, then it is too low. Get the salt to 3200 and try again. If you got a new cell, it should have come with a new trisensor and cell cord.

The trisensor should have come with an adaptor board or an integrated interface module.