Jandy Zodiac Flow Sensor Bad?

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LynnOnTheWeb

LynnOnTheWeb

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 16, 2013
144
Austin, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm trouble shooting service numbers on my Aquapure and wanted to run the entire scenario by some folks before I spend money on replacement parts.

  • First error codes were the 125 & 194 - Clean Cell. I pulled cell and inspected it. No obvious build-up, but I cleaned it and got a few bubbles. Put it back together, still getting the 125 & 194 errors.
  • Took apart the big thing that holds the 4 filters, cleaned them and put it back together. Now getting 172 & 184 error.
  • Checked the front board per the troubleshooting guide. All numbers not exact, but only slightly off. Based on a couple of posts I read, this is acceptable.
  • Have an extra sensor from when I replaced the salt cell 2 years ago. Scrubbed it with a green scrubby and swapped it out. Still getting 172 & 184.
  • Pulled the old cell, cleaned the newer (2 year old) cell with the green scrubby again and put it back on. Now I'm getting a Lo error. Yesterday the salt levels were fine. Now I'm not getting any salt readings.

My questions to the group:
  • Is it likely that both of these sensors are bad?
  • How long should a new sensor last? Two years seems like an awfully short time.
  • Should I do anymore testing or does it seem pretty clear that the problem is with the sensor?

Lynn
 
The actual salt level, as of yesterday, was 3.something. Now it is ----. I don't have strips to test the accuracy of the SWG though.

I saw someone mention the 'new sensors' in another thread. Is this considered a new one or should I be replacing it with another one with the little extra board?
Amazon.com : Zodiac R0452500 16-Feet Port Sensor with O-Ring Replacement Kit for Select Zodiac Jandy PureLink AquaPure Water Purification System : Swimming Pool Chlorine Alternatives : Patio, Lawn Garden
 
Thanks, James. I saw your posts in both threads. I will check the white wire and jumper. I'll also connect directly without the extension. I've been running with the board installed for 2 years without the jumper,. It would be amazing if a 5¢ piece of plastic solves my problem!

Update ---
I looked through The directions at the link you sent me. Thank you for that. I definitely did not receive those directions with my replacement sensor. I remember the instructions that I got being very confusing, and this document is very clear. I hope I still have that jumper, I usually keep extra parts but I don't know that I kept that one. If I didn't, should I be able to find a replacement jumper somewhere so I don't have to replace the entire sensor before I test this?

Lynn
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Not sure where to get an extra jumper. However, all it does is connect the two pins together. You could connect them some other way. For example, you could solder a wire across the pins.
 

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Did you get the information about the little white button on the daughter board? This is on the circuit board on the cabled connected to the multi-function sensor (temperature, salinity and flow)? When codes indicate "no flow" it is usually because it needs to be recalibrated. This fix is simple. With the pool pump and the AquaPure controller powered, hold in this little button for 7 or more seconds and release it. In about 1 minute or less, the codes for "no flow" should clear.

If you have no idea what I am talking about, I can post a picture of this.
 
I remember the calibration using the white button, but didn't remember how to do it. Thanks for that.

Craziest thing though. I pulled the daughter board to get the jumper issue taken care of and decided to connect the sensor directly to the board so the pumps could run while I figured out how to connect the pins. I went to check on everything a little bit ago, and now I'm getting no errors.

If it continues to work, I'll probably leave it alone for the time being.
 
Couldn't find a jumper at Radio Shack so pulled out the soldering iron and made do. It's not pretty, but it worked. For the first time ever, I get a solid green flow light on the board instead of a blinking one.
baf8976c545e9914f4356df8530ebbaa.jpg


While I was putting everything back together, I removed the extension cable, connected the mini board directly to the board, and calibrated. At first I was still getting errors, but now it's running error free.

I've already ordered my replacement sensor. If my current sensor is still working when it arrives, I'll probably send it back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Four days in, the old sensor is still working (no errors, at least), and the new sensor has been delivered to me. I'll probably give it another week and if the old one is still functioning properly, I'll send the replacement sensor back.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
The old sensor started erroring again, so I ordered a new one. I've installed it, set it to program B and get the flow light. After about 10 minutes, I start getting error codes 125 and 194 again.

Thoughts? I'm stumped!
 
125/194 indicate low current. That can be caused by a bad cell cord, a worn out cell, low salt level or a scaled cell. Since you have a fairly new cell and have already cleaned it, I would check or replace the cell cord and verify the actual salt level with a k-1766 test kit or a good conductivity meter.
 

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