Sold house with a pool, bought another house...with a pool

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I'm told this is a "free form" vinyl lined pool which is a bit rare out here. (the way the sides are angled and not straight walls)

It will require special measuring with markers placed and a camera that will stitch the photos
and reference the markers to make a 3d model of the pool to make the liner pattern from.

The bad news is it will be a couple hundred more, but the good news is they have discounted
a few hundred off the price and the new liner will have documentation and a serial number
so it won't ever need measuring again.

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haha! The usual suspects!

Also saw a few containers of Baquicil in the shed!



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Well the pucks could be used to add chlorine and CYA to your brand-new fill water next year...or later this year if you wanna go slow. I actually need to raise my CYA and may drop a puck into the inline feeder and see what it adds.

I think the water company should deal with the phosphate remover and algaeide (down the drain).

The calcium plus should be somewhat useful although with a vinyl liner, you won't need much. What is the CH of your fill water?

So more waiting on the liner...oh well. Next swim season and from here on out shall be perfect!!
 
Not sure yet on the fill water. I left the TF-100 for the buyer of my old place, but I'm ordering another TF-100 today.

They measured for the liner yesterday, replacement install scheduled for Sept 7th. Hoping we have an indian
summer like last year and get at least one swim day in before it gets cold in mid october.
 
Well this is interesting...while going through the pump room (lots of debris to clean out, same as last house)

I found notes on the pool itself:

16,500 gallons (not 14,000 pool co had estimated, though the new liner will tell precisely)

Style: "Pear Shaped, Coved Bottom Hopper"

Also did some searching for the elusive Bond wire.

Pulled the ladder out, didn't see a bonding lug but it could be on the outside of the ladder holes (under decking).

I did find a green wire which goes to ground on the sub-panel, connected to the bond lug on the gas heater...ugh.
 
Bonding to ground is a start but you do really want to bond, with a wire, metal items to metal items that require it.

If you have a voltmeter of some kind, you could measure from your ladder to the ground in your sub-panel and see what kind of resistance you are seeing. With any luck, it'll be below 50 ohms or even better, below 10 ohms. Just make sure you are making good, solid contact with the ladder.
 
Agent99 said:
Bonding to ground is a start but you do really want to bond, with a wire, metal items to metal items that require it.

If you have a voltmeter of some kind, you could measure from your ladder to the ground in your sub-panel and see what kind of resistance you are seeing. With any luck, it'll be below 50 ohms or even better, below 10 ohms. Just make sure you are making good, solid contact with the ladder.
Click to expand...

Not trying to be picky here but I think it's important to make sure anyone casually reading this thread understands that bonding and grounding are technically NOT the same thing and that there are different rules in the electrical code covering bonding versus grounding. Pool School has an introductory article in it called Bonding vs Grounding for anyone interested in a quick read. Just saying'....
 
Ya I'm definitely going to try to make it as right bonding wise as possible.

And agree..grounding is not bonding...hence my "ugh" comment on the gas heater bond lug connected to ground.

I have no intention of busting up the decking around the pool just to bond it.

Hope to find the bond wire but at the very least I will mount a lug on the ladder and run an appropriate thickness
of copper wire from there to the pump and heater then to the sub-panel bar then take ohm measurements.

The previous owners were there for 25 years and said they never felt any shock, but I like to play it safe.
 
Bonding and Grounding are not the same thing, very true.

Bonding is just connecting various conducting items together to ensure that all those items remain at the same potential. That's it.

Grounding is providing a low-impedance return path back to the source. It is there for safety in case a hot wire comes in contact with metal that it isn't supposed to. A metal case of a motor could be energized to 120 or 240 V if the hot wire touches the metal case for some reason. With the equipment ground hooked up, that current has a place to travel back to the source and back to the protection device (a breaker) and trip it and stop the current flow and stop energizing the metal case. Without the equipment ground hooked up, if a person comes along and touches the case, the current will try to go through that person in an attempt to reach its source. Current always travels in a loop...it must go back to its source.

If you read the article in Pool School linked above, you see that in Canada, they require that the bonding wire be connected to equipment ground.

So bonding is great but you need to someplace to connect the bond wire to in order to safely and quickly provide a path for current to flow to ground.

Imagine if somehow a hot wire gets connected to your bonding system. You'll have energized the whole bonding system to 120 V or 240 V. If you haven't connected that bonding system to your equipment ground, anyone who touches that bonding system (grabs a metal pool ladder) could have current flow through them as the current tries to get back to its source.

I would also invite anyone to go measure the impedance between the bonding lug on their equipment and the equipment ground (if it has one...a metal ladder obviously doesn't have an equipment ground) on say their heater or their pool pump. I think you'll find in the neighborhood of 0 ohms of impedance because they are one and the same.

I know I sleep well at night having connected my bonding system to the equipment ground in my sub-panel. :)
 

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Regarding the ladder,
the bond wire connects to the ladder anchor socket on the screw thing that you tighten to secure the ladder (if yours has one). Thats the way mine is.

If hte pool is bonded, you should be able to find the bare bonding wire at the equipment pad, connecting anything thats metal.

borjis said:
Ya I'm definitely going to try to make it as right bonding wise as possible.

And agree..grounding is not bonding...hence my "ugh" comment on the gas heater bond lug connected to ground.

I have no intention of busting up the decking around the pool just to bond it.

Hope to find the bond wire but at the very least I will mount a lug on the ladder and run an appropriate thickness
of copper wire from there to the pump and heater then to the sub-panel bar then take ohm measurements.

The previous owners were there for 25 years and said they never felt any shock, but I like to play it safe.
Click to expand...
 
Divin Dave said:
Regarding the ladder,
the bond wire connects to the ladder anchor socket on the screw thing that you tighten to secure the ladder (if yours has one).
Click to expand...

Dave, I took the ladder out on saturday and saw both anchor sockets with bolts to tighten it down with (like you mention). The holes the ladder goes in are solid
so I didn't see a bond lug but suspect it could be behind it under the concrete.

There is a line with square wood stick "filler" that goes between the decking slabs right next to the right ladder socket/hole. I might remove that and see if I can dig down a bit to attach the bond wire through that, then route it to the edge of the foundation to the house and go along that line to reach the equipment pad.

It would keep it all under and out of sight.




I looked more closely in the pump equipment room and found it does not have a subpanel.
It just has the panel for the timer box.

Within the timer box is the timer and 1 black wire, 1 white wire and a bare copper ground coming
through the wall.

That connects to the timer, then the timer connects to the pump motor wiring and gas heater wiring
so they both are on when the timer turns on.

Would that ground wire coming out of the wall be ok to connect the bonding wire to?

The main house panel is located much further away.
 
The only thing I see on the equipment pad is this:

This is exactly what it looks like though the copper is a bit dirty. I'm going to shine it up and do
some testing with a meter to the ladder. What should the ohm reading be if this is the bond wire?
or should I just test for continuity to the ladder?

It sticks up out of the pad about 1 inch and is bare copper with some of the shielding at the base.

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The bare copper wire is the equipment/safety ground so you are in good shape to tie your bonding system there.

It sounds like you've found the bonding wire for your pool, ladder, etc. so that is great!

Continuity is fine but you could measure the resistance, too, if you like. It should be well under 40 ohms although likely in the single digits of ohms. Just make sure, as you are doing, to get a good clean contact from your meter to the wire. Shiny is great!
 
I went to test that copper wire out of the pump pad I believed was the bond wire and as I peeled away the sheath, it actually is not a solid copper wire, it's a bunch
of colored wires....old phone line...dang!!

There is one other dead (cut) phone wire bundle near that then a verizon telco box. crazy.


So It looks like I'll be stringing that bond wire to the ladder after all.

Also I do have a sub panel with a double breaker for the pad equipment...it's just really small one and the timer box is just above that.

The breaker is NOT a GFCI and I think I want one there for sure for extra precaution and meeting the latest code.
 
borjis said:
and how!

The house was remodeled and mostly finished except for 2 of the bedrooms and the bathrooms are still totally 1970's..already tearing them down for updated look / new tile!
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Dude, what you got against shag carpet, silver & gold wallpaper and plastic couch covers....and let's not forget the great color scheme of the 70's - pea green, orange and brown!! Seriously, those rooms are "classic" and will be back in style in no time....


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