How to reduce CH?

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LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2007
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Austin, TX
Is there any magic out there that will remove CH without draining the water? ;) The problem is, my fill is hard water and it's even worse now that we have been in a long drought. My last TF100 CH test read around 600. All my other chem levels are near perfect. I have a developing CH line at the water line, so I guess I will be using some acid to remove it.

Thanks in advance!
:goodjob:
 
It's got to be rough goings down there in the Austin area with all that limestone raising the CH in your fill water. You can't really escape it. Have you checked into having water trucked in? Of course, it probably wouldn't be feasible for every time that you need to top the pool off, but an initial fill with trucked in water without all that calcium in it might make it last a little longer. Just a thought.
 
One option is to use a water softener to treat the fill water. However, you would need to refill the pool first with treated water.

You could also plumb a water softener into the pool plumbing with a bypass so a small amount of water constantly goes through the softener. With adjustment valves, it could be set up such that you can get a fairly fast drop initially (i.e. divert a lot of water into the softner), but long term, it could be setup to maintain a 300-400 ppm level (i.e. divert less water into the softner). Since your fill water has a very high CH, you will probably need to divert at least a portion of the water traveling through the plumbing.

Either way it is probably an expensive solution but you may not have much of a choice because of the constant addition of CH from the fill water.

My fill water is about 200 ppm and I need to refill my pool every year as it climbs to over 800 ppm. I have thought about doing this myself but the city is bringing osmosis online this year to help with the mineral content so I want to see how well that works first.
 
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I also have high CH in the fill water. The few times I tested it it was around 200 ppm. I think one thing that has been over looked is reducing the amount of evaporation from your pool. Where I live, west central Florida, we recieve also zero rain from November until June. For that reason, I keep a solar cover on the pool 24/7 during those months. The only time it comes off is when we are swimming. Then during the rainy months I use a liquid solar cover, and leave the blue solar cover off. In this maaner I fill the pool less than once a month, usually every other month.
 
Thanks all for the replies!!! Your great as always.

The water seems to be a bit clearier today. I raised the FC and lower my pH.

Start numbers:
FC: 3
TC: 3.5
TA: 160
pH: 8.1
CH: 600

Last night reading
FC: 14
TC: 14
TA: 90
pH: 7.1
CH: 600

I noticed a bit of green to the water at the start but my TC numbers really didn't show a big swing. I figured I start off raising the FC and slowly lower the pH.

The other issue that has been in my mind (I know Jason has told us not to worry about) is phosphates. I am using Dry Acid in my pH Adjuster chem feeder and I have been told by some here that the Dry Acid will raise my phosphates. I really love using the pH Adjuster for it keeps my pH steady except when it runs out like I let it do at the start of this issue. :hammer:
 
Your numbers are looking good.

Dry acid is sodium bisulfate. It will raise your sulfate level, but it won't have any effect on phosphates either way. Very high sulfate levels can damage some SWG cells, though it is very unusual for the levels to get that high.
 
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