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Thread: How do I verify my Autopilot is still working?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Round Rock, TX
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    525

    How do I verify my Autopilot is still working?

    All winter I've had to add bleach to my pool to keep the chlorine levels up.

    I run my autopilot 5 hours per day, it is the 48 size cell in a 15k pool, set on power level 3.

    I do see it run, and see that temperature compensation changing the amount of on/off time, but I don't get enough chlorine in the pool. Basically it stays at 0 if I don't add bleach.

    I took the cell out and looked at it and the plates look new. There is no build up on it at all.

    Is there a way for me to test the system to see if it works? The system in about 2 years old, but last year the board went out and was replaced under warranty.

    thanks,
    dave
    15,500 gal, inground gunite pool with 7 ft spa, 2 speed pump 2hp/.33hp, 3/4 hp booster pump, Intermatic P1353 timer, AutoPilot SC-48, Sand filter with ZeoBest, Heater, that I never use . . .

  2. Back To Top    #2
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    Silver Spring, MD
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    Re: How do I verify my Autopilot is still working?

    It is very common for FC levels of zero to be caused by either low CYA levels or organics in the water. Check that your CYA level is between 70 and 80, and check that manually added chlorine remains at the same level overnight. If CYA is lower, raise the CYA level. If the FC level falls overnight you need to shock the pool.

    There are a couple of simple things you can do to check the cell. The first thing to keep in mind is that the unit does not produce chlorine the entire time the pump is on, only the percentage of the time that you have it set for. You need to do these tests when the cell is on and supposed to be producing chlorine.

    If you have the Digital model, select Test AutoPilot from the menu and note the cell voltage and current when the unit says it is on. If either one is zero then something is wrong.

    Another approach is to look for tiny bubbles coming out of the returns. Tiny bubbles appearing only when the unit is on are hydrogen gas and indicate that the cell is working.

    Another approach is to get a sample of the water from a return while the cell is on and test the FC level of that.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Round Rock, TX
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    Re: How do I verify my Autopilot is still working?

    OK,

    I checked the voltage it is at 25V when I turn on boost.

    My CYA is 50, it dropped from 80 to 40 over the winter so I'm in the process of getting it back up.

    Unfortunately I have a small air leak on my inlet pipe before the pump basket is I always get a stream of bubbles.

    I'll assume that with a 25V reading for the cell that it is working, and that my low CYA just could not keep the cholorine. I'll up the CYA, try and fix the air leak, and check again.

    thanks for the ideas,
    dave
    15,500 gal, inground gunite pool with 7 ft spa, 2 speed pump 2hp/.33hp, 3/4 hp booster pump, Intermatic P1353 timer, AutoPilot SC-48, Sand filter with ZeoBest, Heater, that I never use . . .

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Re: How do I verify my Autopilot is still working?

    Quote Originally Posted by lovingHDTV
    OK,

    I checked the voltage it is at 25V when I turn on boost.


    I'll assume that with a 25V reading for the cell that it is working,
    you need to check the current (amps) as well, as the voltage will always be there, even if the cell is dead.

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