COLOR BLIND - dealing with issues - 1st time pool owner

Aug 3, 2015
74
San Antonio
I'm new to the forum. Just bought a house with a pool in hot San Antonio.

Working through issues and researching on the Internet and pool store. It seems like I walk into the pool store and hear something different and contradictory every time.

I'm at a disability because I am one of the most color blind people that I know. I am trying to find a test kit that is accurate and can help me get through this on my own. I have read a few threads and got some recommendations for test kits that might help. Any other suggestions?
This test kit isn't cutting it. My eyes were telling me I had high chlorine but in reality I can't hold chlorine, and it was way low.
843f0291edace63516a1a1a2be8a4e5d.jpg


The pool is clear and I am trying to follow what the pool store says (I am learning all the pool jargon currently).

Initially I had high chlorine and my cartridge filter was scaled causing low flow. Got a new filter and cleared the pool up. Also, put in about 20 lbs of soda ash to get acid under control. Then I was told I have high phosphates and have been getting those down. I can't hold chlorine and now I am being told that I have high cyanuric acid and they want me to put a $70 bag of something in to get that under control. I am talking with a pool guy and he said that works half the time. Green forms on the walls over night. And I brush it off constantly. I have a Lifeguard Chlorinator that I keep opened to 5. I have checked the valves and get water passing through with a hose. I have also put a floating Chlorinator. New the filter was at 10psi. Now I can get it down to to 12 after cleaning it. By the end of the day and brushing it is back to 25+psi

Direct sun and pool stays around 90*.

The main thing is I need to be able to test it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'd like to start off by welcoming you to TFP!

For starters I'd like to address the test kit. If you can quickly take 3 minutes and watch this video. It displays the chlorine test using the TF-100. I think you'll quickly find you'll be able to follow along even with your eye problems.

Next off I'd like to address your issues you spoke of concerning your pool. Anytime you have visible green forming anywhere, you have algae. The chlorine you're adding is just keeping you from having a full blown green pool. You're solution is to SLAM Process the pool. For now I'd suggest the following,

1. Order a proper test kit as discussed Here

2. Read up on the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and the SLAM Process process while awaiting your kit.

3. Don't touch the Cya reducer! We are seeing a pattern in the results of this product that is leading us to run away from using it. Often members report that the product failed to reduce the cya level at all, costing them both swim time and money. Once we know your proper test results we can assist you further.
 
Click on this link and click on "Pool / Spa" on the left and scroll down to "K-2006 Complete™ Kit with FAS-DPD:" and then look at the FAS-DPD, pH, TA, CH, and CYA tests.

  • FAS-DPD goes from a pink/red color to colorless (usually clear, but sometimes a little cloudy) so if you see no color at all then you may be fooled by the final cloudiness, but if you can see the difference between pink/red and colorless, then you should be OK.
  • pH will be a difficult test since it goes from yellow through orange to magenta/red. You may need to get an electronic pH meter.
  • TA goes from green to red so might be difficult to see.
  • CH goes from red to blue so also may be difficult to see.
  • CYA should not be a problem since color is not involved and instead one determines when one can not longer distinguish a black circle on a white background.
 
You may also want to consider using an app to help you out, I tend to battle as Chem Geek pointed out that the PH tends to be he harder one to identify.

I download a program called color grab from the Android store it gives you a name associated to the colour you see.

I am sure there are others, but at least you can compare the sample to the colour charts and get a rough idea on where it kinda is.

but if you looking to see changes from red to blue or Green to red etc, it would work for that with no problems.
 
I am color blind also. I use the TF-100 and can be pretty accurate on my own. I had the help of my Honey while doing it the first few times. But once I had the hang of it, it's really just noting the last drop of a reagent that causes a change that you are concerned about. I can tell when the color changes, even though I cannot ID the color.
You found the right site for help. These folks are great.
Welcome and good luck.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I checked into the Taylor kits and talked with Wayne at tech support at Taylor to check alternatives. He told me of some, but at $1200 for an electronic meter I might borrow someone else's eyes. He said don't get the cheaper digital testers because they go out of calibration.

I am going to pick up Leslie's version of the 2006 and start the Slam tonight.

In the Slam it says use liquid chlorine or bleach.
Where is the best/most economical place to pick this up? Is liquid bleach that it refers to basically laundry bleach like Clorox or is it referring to a pool chemical? Are there different strength bleaches that I should look for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Matt, the 2005 that Leslie's sells does not have the FAS-DPD test you need to do your slam. You will have to order the K-1515 and all together it will be more expensive to get them separately. You will have to wait on shipping for the 1515, so I would recommend just buying the K-2006 or the TF100 from the get go.
 
Bleach and liquid chlorine are the same chemical: sodium hypochlorite.

Bleach/liquid chlorine prices vary from place to place.

First, you need to make sure it's fresh. Look for a code like 15213. That is the 213rd day of 2015.

As for strength, it affects how much you will use; the higher the strength, the less volume you use. You can calculate the cost per effective ounce: price/ounces in the jug/% strength expressed as a decimal (12.5%=0.125, 8.25%=0.0825, etc)

I check prices wherever I shop and I check both the laundry aisle and the pool section if they have one.

Edit: that kit does have the FAS-DPD, sorry. Most Leslie's only sell the 2005. My bad for not checking with you first!
 
For the pH I recommend you getting a cheaper electronic pH meter and extra solutions for the calibration. It will need calibration every few months but it should be much more accurate for you than trying to read a color comparator block that is somewhat difficult to read without being color blind. You can search electronic pH meters on the forum and find plenty of information on them. We tend to suggest not to use one, but in your case it makes sense to have one.

The best test kit for you to buy due to the pool needing a SLAM is the TF-100 with the XL option. The amount of reagents will last much longer than the other recommended test kits.
 
Ok. Great. Thanks Buckeye.

It's funny that you said that. I just had my kids (who are only going to be here another couple of weeks) compare a chlorine test. There was a little fight as to whether it more closely matched one level or the other. Either way it was low even after 64 oz of Clorox. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.