stabilizer 300, phosphates 500, FC at 1 - HELP

kschmidt1

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LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2015
176
Grandy, NC
10-12 yr old pool, 23000 gal above ground, sand filter, vinyl liner. Fairly new to pools, past three years uneventful. This year having problems keeping FC numbers up. Had switched algaecide (using maintenance dose) and ended up with case of pink algea. Superchlorinated with 6#dichlor, had to add water and added another six. All is gone and still have low FC readings, like 1, but stabilizer now at 300. Took water sample and they also tested for phosphates and found reading of 500. Suggested draining 1/2 pool. I would like to try to get thru to fall (we may go ahead and start from scratch, new liner, etc) Am not necessarily worried about CYA, would like to be able to keep chlorine numbers so we could use until then. Pool tester sent me home with 5# non-chlorine shock and qt of phosphate remover. Any suggestions>:confused:
 
I'd suggest returning the non-chlorine shock and phosphate remover. The pool store says drain because they know they participated in getting your CYA up to stratospheric levels yet blaming it on phosphates makes it sound more believable. Your CYA is probably through the roof with all that dichlor you put in, and as CYA rises so does your chlorine requirement.

How do you chlorinate your pool normally? Algaecides are occasionally useful in certain situations but don't kill algae as much as they prevent it. And some just add more problems if they contain copper or are cheap and cause foaming.

You need your own test kit so that you can get reliable test result numbers as well as monitor your pool better. There are just two test kits we recommend based on their ability to test chlorine at high levels (up to 50ppm) and test your CYA. The TF-100 kit comes from TFTestkits.net or the Taylors K-2006 (no other number!) comes from Amazon and online sellers and occasionally local vendors.
 
Use 3" dichlor tabs in floater and when I want to try to boost numbers quick I throw one in skimmer. Once a week, 2# dichlor shock. I knew CYA was up using pro test strips, but don't regularly test phosphates. Live amongst trees and tall pines , NC coast.
 
Phosphates are meaningless if you maintain adequate FC levels. They are the latest buzz word for the stores to sell you expensive elixirs. There is also no need for algaecides.

The required FC level you need to maintain is a function of your CYA level according to the FC/CYA Chart.

You need to invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits and then post up a full set of test results. You will certainly need to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process, but you may need to address the high CYA level first.

Have you discovered Pool School yet? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 
Do you know the CYA accurately? If not, then how can you know what FC to maintain for it to be safe?

Sure you can use liquid chlorine ... you just need to know the numbers to be able to use PoolMath to know how much to add.

Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
 
OK -

TC - 0
FC - 0
pH - 7.2
TA - 120
CYA - 300 (confirmed by local ACE not computer analysis, but strips they use)

21500 gal, AG vinyl, 1-1/2 HP Power-Flo Matrix pump, 2 yr old Hayward Vari-Flo sand filter, pool 10(?) yrs old, well water, currently have AquaChek Select Strips (Taylor on order)
 
Last edited:
OK - TC - 0
FC - 0
pH - 7.2
TA - 120
CYA - 300 (confirmed by local ACE not computer analysis, but strips they use)

No chlorine odor, slight cloudiness

21500 gal, AG vinyl, 1-1/2 HP Power-Flo Matrix pump, 2 yr old Hayward Vari-Flo sand filter, pool 10(?) yrs old, well water, currently have AquaChek Select Strips (Taylor on order)
 
Am not necessarily worried about CYA,
That should be your BIGGEST concern. You essentially have an unmanageable pool with CYA at that level. The additional issue is the testing for CYA you are getting is notoriously bad. You should get a good test kit and do you own testing but, even then, I think you are in for a rather large drain and refill if you want to really fix your pool.
 

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I realize I have problems - was just trying to see if I could salvage a couple of days out of it until my test kit arrives on Tuesday. I will test and post results unless you feel I should start emptying ...

Thank you.
 
You can certainly put a gallon or so of Clorox in your pool each day until your kit arrives. The important thing is to get that kit and post up a complete set of numbers, We'll all help you get your pool in shape.
 
Most tests do not measure CYA above 100ppm. And if they are using strips, then the results are worthless anyway.

If your CYA is really that high, you need to replace at least 75% of the water as a first step (likely in multiple smaller water changes to protect the liner).

- - - Updated - - -

I can get liqiud pool chlorine at hardware - believe it's 12.5% - would that be better than Clorox?

Thanks.
Depends of the cost. Use the Liquid Chlorine Cost Calculator
 
I will test and post results unless you feel I should start emptying ...
Don't start emptying based on test strip results. You could very well have crazy high CYA as the strips indicate, but we have had situations where someone thought they needed to drain and got the test kit and found out their old numbers were way off. You may have far less of a problem than indicated, or it could be that bad, no way of knowing for sure until the kit arrives.

You will know Tuesday and that is the best time to start working on it. You already made the hard decision, getting a proper test kit, it is pretty simple from here. Did you get the K-2006?
 
Yes - Would like to chlorinate with liquid for a couple of days - how much should I add?

Thanks.
As mentioned what your FC level is dependent on your CYA level. Certainly adding a gallon a day in a 21,500 gal pool would not hurt. Exact amount needed will not be known until you post your test numbers Tuesday. Having zero FC is begging for algae to take hold.
When I run Pool Math it indicates a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise the FC to 4.7 for a 21,500 gal pool.

The issue is if your CYA is not 300 but 100 by adding a gallon a day your FC could be 15-20 ppm by Tuesday and above normal but probably below shock level.

Others may do better math than me but an initial dose of a gallon followed by 1/2 gallon per day is what I would do.
 
OK - Got my test kit K2006, and after viewing a video or two, finally got nerve to test. Here's what I got (the ones that looked wanky, I did second time - in otyher words, tested everything twice;) )
FC - 15 ppm (5 drops to clear)
CC - 4 ppm (2 drops to clear, 25ml sample)
pH - 7.3-7.4
Alk - 225ppm
CH - 125
CYA - (it took 19 drops to hide dot - never got near any readings)

what's next/
 
Ok... Now you can start draining.

If your CYA didn't even get close to 100 then it is extremely high. Your CC is high too but with your CYA you can't really SLAM. Since you have an AG pool then you can probably do a significant water change all at once, something like 1/2 - 3/4 to make it as efficient as possible.

From my HTC One via Tapatalk
 
I will have to see if water in a large quantity is available. Would be tough doing 1/2 at a time with a well. would we be able to do a slow drain and refill (maybe 6 inches a day or so), adding chlorine to be able to keep using if cannot find water source. We are still in 90's here.

Thanks.
 

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