New and confused

[driftn]

Hello,
Well recently, we have had to let go our pool man. Not because he wasn't doing a good job; he was doing a great job. So now that leaves us to do it ourselves. I say us but it'll be ME. I don't mind at all doing it, just need to know what I'm doing. My DH don't have the time AT ALL. I'm totally confused! I have read, and reread the pool school. Even the beginners info.
TH 1000 FC 2/4 Ph 8.4 TA 240 CYA 300

Off the chart! I really don't know what to do. I was told by a local pool store that I need to drain my pool and start over. The water has been in there for 4 years. If I do need to drain, how do I do it? The water looks nothing like the way our pool guy kept it. Where do I start?

Thanks

 

[JasonLion]

Welcome to TFP!

Yes, you need to replace nearly all of your water (more than 80%). Your CYA level is way too high and the only practical way to bring it down is to replace most of your water. Assuming that TH is total hardness, your hardness level is also approaching the point where you need to replace most of your water. If it was just the hardness you could put it off a little, but given the CYA level there is little choice.

In arid areas of the country with high CH levels in their fill water, you accumulate CH in the pool water over time. Eventually that gets to a point where you need to replace a large portion of your water.

Given your numbers, I expect that you are probably getting some calcium scaling right now. You either want to get started on replacing water right away, or add enough acid to bring the PH down to between 7.0 and 7.5 sometime soon.

It would be a great idea to get a top quality test kit and measure the levels of your fill water. A great test kit will pay you back several times over by avoiding problems and saving on chemicals. It would be great to start with a test of your fill water to see what you should expect to see after the water gets replaced.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I just wanted to say hi and Welcome!

When I first found this site, I was frustrated, desperate for help and ready to get rid of our pool. My hubby and I made a deal when we got the pool that I would handle the chems, if he handled the equipment. At the time, I thought I had made a good deal and then a few years later we started having problems. By the time I found TFP I had spent thousands on chems at the pool store and still had problems with my pool water. I JUST wanted someone to tell me, step by step, how to fix it and to EXPLAIN to my why it was happening. This site and it's experts, did exactly that.

So you are in the right place. You will get the advice you need and we will cyber-hold-your-hand through the process!

So, to reiterate what Jason said, run a set of tests on (or have the pool store test) your fill water (from your hose), and post them here. Second, order a good test kit and start testing your water yourself, it allows you to take total control and you are not relying on someone else's abilities, or lack thereof! Personally I would recommend the TF-100, it's the test I have and an excellent value for the money. At first it seemed like a lot, and I had already spent so much, but now I know better...it was the best investment in my pool I could have made. The money I have saved by testing myself and avoiding the pool store, and the resulting recommendation from them for chems I didn't need, and the test has already paid for itself!

Good luck, we're here to help! :-D

 

[Guest]

Are you testing with strips? I suspect that you are. (TH instead of CH and pH of 8.4, These are strip results. CYA test can only give you 300 if you are using strips and strip CYA tests are notoriously inacurate.) Get rid of them and get a good test kit. I suspect (more than suspect---I KNOW) that your test results might not be accurate.

I am also wondering about your FC 2/4 reading. I suspect that you are reading both the chlorine and bromine scale. For a chlorine system only the first number is valid.

First step is to get a good test kit so you know exactly what is going on in your pool.
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison

Once you do that we can help you. We are very good at hand holding around here@

 

[driftn]

Thanks for your replies

I am testing with strips. After reading some of the threads I figured I should get a "real" test kit. I will do that.

Jason, I do have some calcium scaling around the pool and spa. Will it be wise to try to get rid of it before the water is drained or do I need to buy the chemicals now to get rid of it?

 

[duraleigh]

driftn,

I would suggest as a first step that you take a water sample to a pool store that doesn't test with strips and post those results here while you're waiting for your kit to come in.

You pool water may not be quite as bad as first suspected and it may well be you don't have to do a complete drain. Those more accurate test results will help us all help you get your water back where it belongs.

They will also help us get an idea of how best to help you with the scaling issue you have.

For what it's worth, You are most likely not the only cause of your water problems. Your inital results indicate your pool has been not maintained properly for a longer period of time than you suspect. Even tho your water may have looked good, I'm pretty sure your water has been mismanaged quite awhile.

The two kits most folks on this forum like to use are the Taylor K-2006 and the one I manufacture, the TF-100. Any others usually have some shortcomings and may not help you as well as you need.

This forum is the premier site on the net for accurate swimming pool info. The advice you get here comes from some of the most knowledgeable folks in the country and they are always willing to share what they know.

 

[JasonLion]

Calcium scale can be very difficult to remove. Small patches of scale can be removed with a pumice stone. In mild cases, lowering your CSI to about -0.8 and brushing aggressively can sometimes remove scale, particularly when a sequestrant designed for calcium is also used, but this can take weeks and you need to be careful not to lower your PH too far of you can damage copper heat exchange coils. There are no drain acid wash systems, such as Jack's Magic The Copper & Scale Stuff, but the heater (if any) must be bypassed and the process can take weeks. The only reliable solution for removing calcium scaling is a full drain and acid wash.

 

[Guest]

I concur with Duraleigh. Your water has been out of balance for a long time if you have scaling. Scaling is a SLOW process so firing your pool service was the right thing to do. Get a good test kit, either the K2006 or the TF100 and take control of your water. The scaling is the last of your worries right now. In the mean time read Pool school, then re read it, then post any question you might have. If our over 6000 members can take care of their own pool so can you!

Getting a water test from the pool store is not a bad idea either but realize that many pool stores don't test that well! Just use their test as a guide to get you started.