CH Problems

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Chula Vista 45k

Chula Vista 45k

0
Jul 24, 2015
14
Chula Vista California
I have recently taken on the job of maintaining my pool after 3.5 years of having pool service. I am a sucker and made the dreaded walk into leslies. The following are my test results from yesterday;

FAC-5
TAC-5
CH-900
CYA-90
TA-80
PH-7.6
Copper-0
Iron-0
TDS-4300
PHOS-500

I retested myself this morning;
FAC-2
TAC-2
PH-7.8

I added 1quart of acid this morning after testing. I input my information into the TFP calculator and it is suggesting that I reduce my water by 71% to eliviate the CH problem and of course leslies recommended me draining to get rid of TDS. Pool cleaner was using LC and leslies has me using powder and tabs. My question is do I really have to drain the pool?
 
STOP using the powder and tabs NOW! They will raise your CYA up even higher than it is and truly cause you grief.
The more CYA that you have in your pool requires higher levels of free chlorine there also and if you can't keep it up that extra high amount you WILL get algae. Liquid chlorine, even household bleach is preferable to what you're doing now.

Order your own test kit. It will be far more reliable and trusted than Leslies or other pool stores random tests. TFTestkits.net, PoolSupplyWorld.com (in Ca) can both get you the TF-100 test kit a pool your size needs. The cost $68 will be recouped the very first time you DON"T get talked into buying some un-needed chemical at the pool store. DO NOT worry about Phosphates or TDS... that's one area they scare folks into buying silly potions.

You *may* want to drain some water and replace just to lower that CYA level you've got. If you can't due to drought, you'll have to be very committed to keeping your FC high enough to avoid algae until you can slowly replace water in stages to lower that CYA.

The CH is high, but almost everyone in the west seems to have that, and it can be worked around by keeping your pH down lower (about 7.2) to avoid scaling. Don't add anything to your pool chemical wise that contains calcium.

Time to start reading Pool School, up at the top right of this website.
 
No to baking soda. Raising TA just makes it more prone to growing Calcium scale.

Partial draining is the most cost-effective way to reduce CH. If you have any lawn that you haven't just let die, use pool water to irrigate it and refill the pool with the irrigation water you saved. Test your tap water. You'll likely discover you're awful close to "ideal" already, so you'll likely never get CH in the pool down to the recommended levels. My experience is that up to 800 CH is not much of a problem. Keep TA low and pH at the lower end of safe and things will be fine. When you get to 1000, there isn't much you can do to prevent scaling.

Even replacing 4" at a time will likely shave close to 100 CH off the readings each time.
 
Thank you Richard for your rapid reply. I can remove some water at a time as to not have the water company coming after me. I am not sure how to do that. My skimmer has two hole in it, one that goes to filter and the other is plugged. I have a back wash option but I know that will only get me so far. Could you please advise on how to remove the water and let me know which details about my pool you may need?
 
The drain in the deep end could be plumed to your skimmer, but you said the other hole in the skimmer was plugged, so I don't know. IF the main drain is plumbed to the pump, you could drain as much as you want through backwash. With the pump running, try plugging the skimmer hole to see if you still have water flow out the returns. Maybe the main drain is tee'd in underground.
 

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I tried plugging the skimmer hole as suggested Robert and very little water was coming through. I suppose there is a great deal of build up in the line which is why the water flow wasn't heavy. I did manage to drain using backwash coming from the hot tub and was able to take out 2" of water. I will refill and test and then rinse and repeat a little at s time. I may also just go rent a pump and pump a little more water.
 
Chula Vista 45k said:
Update: I received my Test kit yesterday and performed all test this morning. Results are;
CH 5-10
PH 7.5
FC 8
CC 0
TC 8
CH 1225
TA 80
CYA 40

Other than adding the recommended baking soda and pretty much draining the pool, does any one have any further concerns with the numbers I provided?
Click to expand...

That test kit only measures chlorine in ranges of 5? The difference between 5 & 10 is 100%. It will be very hard to keep proper FC level if this is as accurate as it can do. And at high cya level, or if you need to kill algae, you'll need a test that can read above 10. Take a look at the recommended kits in pool school at the top.
 
BuckeyeChris said:
That test kit only measures chlorine in ranges of 5? The difference between 5 & 10 is 100%. It will be very hard to keep proper FC level if this is as accurate as it can do. And at high cya level, or if you need to kill algae, you'll need a test that can read above 10. Take a look at the recommended kits in pool school at the top.
Click to expand...

I think you misread...ch is 5 to 10...his fc number was 8
 
Actually, you're in great shape! You have a hose bib coming right out of the pump befo9rethe filter. Use that.

I like to move spa water to the pool and then I can empty more at a time without going below the skimmers and I can be filling the spa up again with fresh water at the same time. I don't see the three-ways for that in your pictures, though. But anyway, connect a hose to that faucet and water the lawns.
 
robertmee said:
I think you misread...ch is 5 to 10...his fc number was 8
Click to expand...

ah, I saw he still has his hdx kit in his sig and wasn't sure. He had CH listed twice and the second number was more in line with what we were talking about so I figured first reading is Chlorine. but that still doesn't make any sense to me. 5 to 10 calcium hardness? maybe the tf kit has some other tests I'm not familiar with.

Nevertheless, whatever. This thread will obviously move along fine in spite of me getting confused within it.
 
Actually, I was backwashing with out a filter because Noticed a crack in the manifold and some tears in the grids. New grids arrived today and new O-ring and manifold due in tomorrow. Once I have it all back together tomorrow I will most defiantly recharge. Thanks for the help on the draining issue.
 
BuckeyeChris said:
ah, I saw he still has his hdx kit in his sig and wasn't sure. He had CH listed twice and the second number was more in line with what we were talking about so I figured first reading is Chlorine. but that still doesn't make any sense to me. 5 to 10 calcium hardness? maybe the tf kit has some other tests I'm not familiar with.

Nevertheless, whatever. This thread will obviously move along fine in spite of me getting confused within it.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the mix up, the first one should have read CL 5-10.
 

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