New Pool Build in Spring, TX

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bdrums

bdrums

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Jul 16, 2015
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The Woodlands, TX
Update 12.27.2015
Final Review posted at post #240
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/102325-New-Pool-Build-in-Spring-TX?p=955045#post955045

Update 11.07.2015
Initial fill complete. Waiting on startup.

Update 08.10.2015
Pre dig questions posted at #19.
We're still a couple of weeks away (probably) from the dig. I want to prepare for the least amount of impact on our sprinkler system. I have 3 questions.

1. Some of the heads will be covered by the deck and the equipment pad. We're considering digging these up prior to construction and either capping the to-be-covered heads or running all new lines so there are no joints under concrete. What did you do and what would you do different?

2. The control valve system for the sprinkler system is on the side of house the excavator will use. So there is risk of damage there. The PB said he would try to have the operator miss the valve system. We have narrow access and can't take down the shared fence, so the PB is bringing in a mini excavator, but there is enough room where the valve system is to navigate around it. I'm not banking on the operator guy doing as he was asked. He'll make dozens of trips along that side of the house so I just know he'll run over them. What can I do to mitigate the damage? Maybe dig up the valve system and turn off the sprinkler system while construction is going on then re-install the valves?

3. The side of the house where the excavator will run is sloped significantly. The PB said they would have to level it for the excavator. Probably by scraping dirt from the high side (near the house) and filling the low side (near the fence). Would we be better off bringing in extra dirt and building up the fence side? Might cause too much pressure on the wooden fence though.

Thanks!

Update 08.05.2015
Signed contract last night! Had a tough choice between 2 excellent builders. Would have been satisfied with either one.

Design
In ground gunite pool with raised spa.
33' x 17' free form
12" wall along back
440 pool / 500 total sq ft.
17.8k gallons
3.6' to 6'
8 Waterway jets in spa
Spa waterfall into pool
Spa water bubbler
6 stone scuppers on wall
Oklahoma flagstone coping, wall and waterline
Stamped concrete deck
PebbleTec or PebbleSheen level 1
(Images to come soon, I hope. I have hard copies but not digital)

Equipment
Jandy
- 60 DE filter
- 2.0 VS main pump
- 2.0 Flo Pro for scuppers
- 1.5 Stealth for PV3
- Savi Melody 28w pool lights (3)
- Savi Melody 14w for spa
- PDA PS6
- JXi 400K BTU natural gas heater

Paramount
- PV3 in floor cleaning system
- MDX main drain in pool and in spa
- SDX secondary

Polaris
- 1.5hp air blower

Misc
- Zodiac Nature2 Fusion Inground
- Paramount ClearO3
(I don't plan to run these. The builder includes them in his package. I hope I can catch the installers and just not install these.)

(Removed original post as no longer relevant)

Now the interminable wait for permits & lending.
 
Last edited:
Maybe I was a bit vague. I used the term "mingle area" to mean where the table and chairs are.

We did flip the design but it pinches in the pool quite a bit on the left to leave enough room for table and chairs. From the left side of the house to the easement line is about 23 ft.

I'm having a hard time envisioning how much deck we'll have and how much pool.

Oh BTW the design you see is about 92 perimeter feet.
 
Welcome to TFP, and yay another Spring, TX pool.

Depending on the amount of shade you get, you may want to factor into your design cooling your pool.
I don't mean a heat pump, but sufficient water feature that you can run them early in the morning, when air is cool, to drop the pool temp.
I can take mine down 2-4 deg on a good night.
87 feels much better than 91 on hot days like we get July-August here.
Deck jets, laminars and waterfalls all offer this. The SPA spillway does not get enough 'air' to be effective.

Light directed away from house. The glare detracts from the pool at night for those on the patio or in the house.

Depending on your budget, swim jets are an option for the lap swimmer. We use ours every day. I don't see mention of kids, but they are very imaginative of other uses for them.

I see your concern about the mingling area. It's fine if the bedroom occupants are always the ones mingling.
What, if any, are your restrictions from bumping out the deck to the fence on the left?
This would let you recover some puppy space outside the bedroom.
Do you have any plans for outdoor kitchen/gazeebo/grilling area?
 
ozdiver said:
Depending on the amount of shade you get, you may want to factor into your design cooling your pool.
I don't mean a heat pump, but sufficient water feature that you can run them early in the morning, when air is cool, to drop the pool temp.
Click to expand...

Not much shade until late evening. We plan to have a couple of sheer descent falls in the back wall.

ozdiver said:
Light directed away from house. The glare detracts from the pool at night for those on the patio or in the house.
Click to expand...
Not sure what you mean.

ozdiver said:
What, if any, are your restrictions from bumping out the deck to the fence on the left?
This would let you recover some puppy space outside the bedroom.
Click to expand...

We have a 5ft easement on the side fences so I think we're planning to use as much as we can.

ozdiver said:
Do you have any plans for outdoor kitchen/gazeebo/grilling area?
Click to expand...
Nope. It's a challenge enough just to get a decently sized pool. The deck space shown is pretty much right at the minimum build size(I.e., minimum charge.)

Thanks. I'm not super picky - just trying to make sure I haven't overlooked something important.
 
I would definitely want the spa to be closer to the Master Bedroom! So when you make a mad dash from the bedroom to the spa, you don't have far to travel. It would also be nice to hear the waterfall into the pool from your bedroom. Just my two cents!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Regarding the lights.
Setting them in the wall closest to the house facing away lets them reflect off the far wall and look good.
If they are in the wall opposite the house facing back toward it, the glare is not nice and detracts from the view.
 
ozdiver said:
Regarding the lights.
Setting them in the wall closest to the house facing away lets them reflect off the far wall and look good.
If they are in the wall opposite the house facing back toward it, the glare is not nice and detracts from the view.
Click to expand...

OK. Gotcha. That pic doesn't show the lights but in the night time image he has the lights facing away from the house. So, I think we're good there. Thanks! I would not have thought about that since they are under water.
 
Update:

We have a bid from our 2nd builder (not the one who provided the rendering in the OP). This builder quotes:
500 Sq Ft (approx 17K gallons)
Stamped concrete decking of about 400 sq ft
Jandy 60 DEV or 580 CL filter
Jandy 2.0 hp Stealth filtration pump
Jandy 2.0 hp FloPro water feature pump
Jandy JXi heater
Jandy PDA PS6 pool computer
Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 hp booster pump
Brass skimmer lids and 6" brass drains in deck where needed
Jandy Savi Melody colored LED lights (6 total)
Pebbletec or Pebblesheen level 1 color
Spa has 8 jets and a water spout
Chlorinator: Nature2 fusion and Paramount Clear03
Full startup plus 2 months of pool service
Oklahoma flagstone coping and water feature wall
Water features: 6 scuppers

Builder 1 hasn't provided detailed specs but here is my understanding
About the same size pool and spa
Pentair (Sta Rite) VS pump
(No separate water feature pump)
Water feature: 2 x sheer descents
Paramount PCC2000
3 white LED lights
Flagstone coping
Kool deck about 400 sq ft
I believe 6 jets in the spa, but could be 8.
Pebbletec or Pebblesheen level 1 color
No remote control
Heater (not sure what kind or how many BTU)


PB1 is about $2,000 less than PB2.

Here are the significant differences as I see them:
PB1
- includes PCC2000.
- uses Kool deck.
- does not include remote control.
- uses VS pump.
- does not use 2nd water feature pump

PB2
- uses stamped concrete with a sand treatment to reduce slickness.
- uses Savi colored LED lights
- uses PDA remote control.
- uses separate water feature pump
- uses single speed pump

PB2 says that the single speed pump will run 6 - 8 hours a day depending on how much daylight you get and that a VS pump won't save us much money, especially when you consider replacement or repair costs. I'm dubious of this claim, but I have read that VS pumps are much harder to repair.

PB2 insists on the Nature2 and ClearO3. It's his package deal. I suppose I could just turn them off once installed. I don't know if he'll go for it, but I think I'll propose to trade the Nature2 and Clear03 for a VS pump.

I haven't done the math completely, but once differences are accounted for, I believe the bids to be close enough to not matter. I'm down to - do I go for the PCC2000 (PB1) or the other extra features (stamped concrete, multi colored LED lights, remote control, separate water feature pump) from PB2.

Related question: How often do those of you with a Polaris or Dolphin cleaner have to handle these things? Is this an everyday activity or just 2 or 3 times a week?

We go to talk to PB1 to get solid bid Monday after work.

Thoughts welcome. Thanks!
 

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We're still a couple of weeks away (probably) from the dig. I want to prepare for the least amount of impact on our sprinkler system. I have 3 questions.

1. Some of the heads will be covered by the deck and the equipment pad. We're considering digging these up prior to construction and either capping the to-be-covered heads or running all new lines so there are no joints under concrete. What did you do and what would you do different?

2. The control valve system for the sprinkler system is on the side of house the excavator will use. So there is risk of damage there. The PB said he would try to have the operator miss the valve system. We have narrow access and can't take down the shared fence, so the PB is bringing in a mini excavator, but there is enough room where the valve system is to navigate around it. I'm not banking on the operator guy doing as he was asked. He'll make dozens of trips along that side of the house so I just know he'll run over them. What can I do to mitigate the damage? Maybe dig up the valve system and turn off the sprinkler system while construction is going on then re-install the valves?

3. The side of the house where the excavator will run is sloped significantly. The PB said they would have to level it for the excavator. Probably by scraping dirt from the high side (near the house) and filling the low side (near the fence). Would we be better off bringing in extra dirt and building up the fence side? Might cause too much pressure on the wooden fence though.

Thanks!
 
I would not have any part of the sprinkler system under the concrete for just in case needs in the future. Why even take the chance you will need to bust it up?

-Valve system-build a temporary "building" around it and paint it a BRIGHT color. Just some pieces of plywood to make cover it and act as a buffer. With the bright color he will be more apt to see it.

-no help with the grading. Maybe a picture will help.

Kim
 

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