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Tom Fuller

0
Jul 23, 2015
7
Melrose,NY
Ok.......Finally got the TF 100XL with the Speed Stirrer after reading reviews on here. Just by using strips I had on hand I knew I had a PH issue. Read off the chart low. So, after running first round of tests today, this is what I have come up with.

Chlorine Test-Took forever using speed stirrer to get even a light shade of pink after adding the powder. One drop is all it took to turn it clear meaning .5 FC I believe. Would turn light pink again if it kept stirring. Came up with .5 CC when adding the R 0871.

Total Alkalinity-Turned hot pink after adding the 5 drops of R 0008, not green. Didn't do anything after adding the R 0009. Didn't think it would, was just curious. TA=0?

CYA-Ran the test as written. Put into the vial with the black dot. 50 I could barely see the dot, 40 I couldn't see it at all.

Calcium Hardness-75ppm

PH-Below 6.8.

Used the K 1000 quick test also. Showed no chlorine and a PH a shade lighter than 6.8.


I tried to be thorough in explaining, lol. If you need any other info. I'd be happy to give it. I read the pool chemistry section and used the calculator for 29,100 gallons. I would like to continue using the Chlorinator and hope to straighten it out and stabilize the water. The pool gets full sun all day every day that we have sun in upstate NY. I ran the tests while the pump was running in the evening. I got the water away from the returns, on the opposite side. I haven't added the amounts given yet, wanted to make sure first.

It it said to add: 212oz of 6% Bleach
32 oz of Soda Ash
683oz of Baking Soda
797oz of Calcium Chloride


Do these sound remotely right? I believe I entered everything in correctly. ??. Thanks for reading a long, rambling post! lol
 
Welcome to the forum. :wave:

Those Poolmath numbers look correct but do this instead.

1.. Bring your pH up using 20 Mule team Borax to around 7.4 or so. Use Poolmath to calc dosage.

2. Get chlorine in your pool pronto. Calc to dose around 3-5 ppm and then keep it there by replenishing.

3. Tomorrow, buy enough CYA to get to 30-40 ppm and put it in. (It won't show up on the test for a few more days but you can assume it's in there for all your calculations.

Post back results for pH, TA and FC and we'll go from there.

Be sure you read and understand "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

How does your water look?
 
If you know you put the appropriate amount in to get to 40 on the CYA just go on as if its there now. It takes about a week to actually show up on the test. From how you describe the tube, I'd go with 40ppm also. Its kinda a subjective test but it isn't life or death to be spot on accurate as long as your FC level is always enough.

Have you seen the CYA/Chlorine chart in Pool School? That will help guide you in how much chlorine you need to keep in the pool on a daily basis. You need to keep enough in there so that even if it gets used up your FC level doesn't drop below the minimum amount needed per your CYA level.
 
Two things to note, your pH can even be lower than 6.8, if you add the borax and you don't get your pH target you need to continue adding until you reach your target step by step, and testing for CYA is tricky, I will wait for the day when there is sunshine and test it outside with your back facing the sun and the vial at waist level
 
On the alkalinity test did you add r0007 also? There's three steps to testing TA.

- - - Updated - - -

Also don't know if it matters but try not using the speed stir when adding the powder. Stir it with the little dipper. Then use speed stir on adding drops.
 
Ok, I will get the PH and Chlorine in check. Some more info after the build. The pool water was delivered and I don't think any stabilizer was added. I run the TriChlor tabs in the chlorinator. I read somewhere that there's stabilizer in there? I'll double check. We had algae problems in the beginning. Cleared up with longer filtration (thus more chlorine) and bumping up the chlorination rate with that a bit. In the AM, after running for the evening and some of the night I got a FC reading(on the strip) of 4. Like I said, I've never added stabilizer. So....I'm curious how I'm getting a CYA reading and if my 0 FC is a result of no stabilizer and a full day of hit sun. I'll test first thing in the AM to compare results.


Thanks for for the help so far!
 
you did report a CYA of between 40 and 50. Not sure why they are suggesting that you add more at this time. You may have the start of another algae bloom. Check the CYA chart and make sure you never go below the target.

More help should be along soon.
 
well, I misspoke on the CYA. I carelessly overlooked you were reporting it as 40. Do not add ANY more. I am sorry I missed that.

You say you have never put any CYA in your pool.....then someone else did. CYA is not naturally occurring and only gets into your pool if someone puts it there.
 

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Welcome, Tom. Those pucks you're using are what have gotten you to 40 ppm cya, and they won't stop there. For each 10 ppm FC you add using pucks, you will add 6 ppm CYA. Before long, you will have high cya, and the problems associated with that, which include cloudiness, algae outbreaks and water that actually isn't sanitized. That's because there is a relationship between how much cya you have and how much free chlorine you need for true sanitization. Pucks make that a moving target.

I know you said you want to keep using your Hayward chlorinator, but you have an opportunity right now to have a trouble free pool by either switching immediately to liquid chlorine dosing daily or adding a SWG to your equipment.

In either case, you would then have a fixed/stable amount of CYA (40 is actually perfect in a non SWG pool) and you would thus have the same number to dose to each day to completely avoid issues. At 40 in a non-saltwater pool, you'd never want to drop below 3 ppm, and always want to target 5 ppm. (See the link re cya:chlorine in my signature.)

Cya never dilutes. The only way to remove it from your water or lower it is to drain and refill. Now that you have a kit, you could in theory manage your pool that way, but I don't think the convenience of the pucks is really worth that kind of hassle. That's why most folks who use the TFP method do not use pucks except for vacations, etc. my own hayward chlorinator sits empty 99% of the season and as a result my water is gorgeous ;)

To reduce lugging bleach and having a lot of bottle waste, in my case I use 12% chlorine that I get refills for in 4 gallon cases at the pool store run by our pool builder (I just don discuss my methods with store staff ;) )

But lots of folks here just use regular unscented bleach (not splashless) from the grocery store.

I hope once balanced you enjoy your new pool, but I also hope that for long-term troube free maintenance, you kick the puck habit ;)
 
Ok. It's been roughly 40 hours since adjustment made. Used the quick test kit (K1000 I believe), PH is between 7.2-7.5 according to the shade of red. FC is between 4-5. I'll run the complete tests this evening and post results. Thanks again for the help!!
 
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