New to site: Don......Fighter of the Green pool.

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D

dr2casto

0
Jul 16, 2015
18
Tallahassee/Havana/Florida
Hello all,
I have been fighting the standard "green" pool. Below is current readings at the present after 10 days.

(Pool store readings)
Temp: 80 (Provided)
CYA = 40 (After 67% drain and refill using your pool math for 120 CYA reading a week ago.)
TC=7
FC=7
TA=78
Tot Hardness: 123
Ph=6.9

Whats been done since this reading:
Added 4# Dichlor Shock in an effort to raise the level in order to proceed to the (Yellow Mustard Algae) level. I do not know how to measure the chlorine at this level any help would be appreciated.
I put 5ml pool water to be tested with 45ml of tap water and then tested this. I multiply the results by 10. Will this give accurate results? If not, then how to measure FC?
 
dr2casto said:
Hello all,
I have been fighting the standard "green" pool. Below is current readings at the present after 10 days.

(Pool store readings)
Temp: 80 (Provided)
CYA = 40 (After 67% drain and refill using your pool math for 120 CYA reading a week ago.)
TC=7
FC=7
TA=78
Tot Hardness: 123
Ph=6.9

Whats been done since this reading:
Added 4# Dichlor Shock in an effort to raise the level in order to proceed to the (Yellow Mustard Algae) level. I do not know how to measure the chlorine at this level any help would be appreciated.
I put 5ml pool water to be tested with 45ml of tap water and then tested this. I multiply the results by 10. Will this give accurate results? If not, then how to measure FC?
Click to expand...

I believe Dichlor will raise your CYA so be careful with that. This is why bleach is recommended, it doesn't negatively interfere with your other numbers. Cal-Hypo based shock will not add CYA, but does add Calcium increasing water hardness.

You will need a FAS-DPD test kit. With this you can measure Free Chlorine at a higher level than 5ppm. It is also required for the overnight chlorine loss test (OCLT) which is part of the SLAM process.
 
For a SLAM, you will need LOTS of bleach. I didn't use 12% bleach, but I would start with a minimum of 5 gallons and possibly even 10 gallons. I would not proceed with the SLAM until you have a FAS/DPD test kit. While you wait, you could add 1 gallon of bleach nightly to keep your algae at bay while you wait.

In addition, while you wait, you should read Pool School, especially the section on SLAMMING.

Oh and I almost forgot the most important part -WELCOME!! You've come to the right place to say bye bye to Algae that stays gone and the most sparkly, clear pool you've ever had. I promise!!!


[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Good point. Poolstore PH is more accurate than test strip PH. I would add muriatic acid to raise PH from 6.9 to 7.2.

Scratch that! Muriatic acid lowers PH, use Borax to raise PH.
 
Last edited:
No, muriatic acid lowers pH. Original poster, you can add borax (the 20 mule team stuff) to raise pH - PoolMath will help you determine the quantity needed.

Note that adding 4 lbs. dichlor to your pool will raise CYA by 12 ppm. I assume you don't want to go down that path again, after recently draining water to reduce excessive CYA!! There is a useful section near the bottom of the PoolMath page where you can look at the effect of chemical additions. Be sure to enter your pool volume at the top of the page first.

And, as a first priority, you really need a decent test kit so you can see what's going on while maintaining the high chlorine levels needed to successfully defeat algae - that means a kit with the FAS-DPD reagents.
 

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Thanks
I have ordered a K-2006 Kit and have already received the CYA test kit.....I am at 55 CYA and have put 10 3" tabs of non-stabilized chlorine pills (tricloro-s-triazinetrione) to help battle the algae. I will get the bleach today. It should'nt raise my CYA correct?

- - - Updated - - -

Ordered the K-2006 test kit and am after the liquid bleach today.
Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Cal-hypo would be the ticket then if I can find it.....seems the pool supplies dont carry it around here????? Given that I have thrown 10 non-stabilized 3" tabs of non-chlorinated (trichloro-s-triazinetrione) into the basket to halt the problem until I can get some bleach. My CH is low so if I could find Cal-Hypo it would be good.
 
Don, if you suspect your CYA is already at 55, I would remove those 10 tablets and not use any more pool store "bags-o-shock" as I like to call them. They will send your CYA even higher which will make your SLAM more difficult (more bleach). Until your K-2006 gets here and you have an accurate way to test your FC at higher levels, simply add about 1 gallon of regular bleach (generic is fine) to your water each night. It won't clear your water, but hopefully it will keep it from getting too much worse. You just want to hang-tight until your FAS-DPD stuff arrives. Only then can you ensure you are calculating for, and adding the right amount of bleach to perform the SLAM properly.
 
I did add 1/2 the recommended amount of Muratic to keep Ph low, I was under the impression that this allows the Chlorine to work more effectively......
Ureka!.......The pool has gone clear as of this morning.....I did nothing more than brush the pool and move from Diclor to Trichlor.....which in my case is 99% Chlorine "Non-Stabalized" to keep from hiking the CYA.....it did move to 55 over the past few days.....Ooooops.....live and learn.

Current test readings using current 5 way kit....
FC=25
Ph=7.6 (Invalid with this FC level I am told)
Alk=90

Need to know when to add clarifier?
Also should probably vac the settlings to waste?

Will maintain current FC level until ?
 
Last edited:
This morning the pool looks milky and I am stoked that the green is gone.
Test results:
FC = 20
Ph = 7.8 (added 1 cup muratic acid)
Alk= 90
CYA= Holding at 55

Added 2 tabs Diclor (Non-Stabalized) to keep Chlorine up

Now awaiting my new test kit....(still using 5 way until then)
Would like to add clarifier at some point to drop out the milk OR will it continue to clear on its own?

Still not sure how to post daily: I am using this "Reply to thread" as means to update the original post I began back when.....is this correct or do I reply to each new comment?
So........
 
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Mostly, we stay away from things like clarifies. If you still have a little cloudiness after a few days you could look into adding a little DE to your sand filter. There is an article in Pool School about doing it.
 
BTW, You're doing fine as far as posting goes. TFP method is to use plain no-frills bleach instead of pucks. Pucks are for CYA addition and vacation use only. You have to be careful with them because as you add CYA you need more chlorine to have a clean, sanitary pool. Eventually you will end up having to drain and refill if the CYA gets too high. As far as know most pucks have CYA. I seem to recall that there are some that use Calcium instead but that can bring trouble too. Using bleach adds only chlorine so it's thought of as the best way.
 
pabeader said:
Mostly, we stay away from things like clarifies. If you still have a little cloudiness after a few days you could look into adding a little DE to your sand filter. There is an article in Pool School about doing it.
Click to expand...

I am hearing you say "be patient"......
I need to know if the tabs I am using are "stabilizer" free.....I have looked all over the bucket and do not see any mention. It does say 99% active ingredient of Trichloro-s-triazinetrione. What do you think?
Thanks for your help.
Don
 

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