PH off the chart with SWG

[jagger2005]

Here are my numbers from Sun
TA - 120
CH - 425
CYA - 80
Salt -3800 SWG was turned on Saturday and I overshot the recommended ppm

Last night:
FC - 5
CC - 0
pH - 8.2

My pH was probably a lot higher. Last night after measuring, I added 48 oz muratic acid to get me to 7.2 (PoolMath). This morning it still measured 8.2 so I added 48 oz again. I just checked it around noon and it was 7.8 - 8.2, so I added 24 oz.

I have been trying to target 7.5. Before the SWG, it would hold for a couple of days and then I would add about 24 oz to get it back to 7.5.

This is a new plaster pool. I am getting bubbles at 2 of my returns and one of the returns is probably 16 linear feet from the t15 cell. So from what I have seen posted by chem geek, I might be fighting both carbon dioxide gas and hydrogen gas with my system.

What would be the best way to handle my water balance? Thanks in advance for any advice

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I am running at 50% as I am trying to dial in how much chlorine will generate in an 8 hour pump run time

 

[tackettaj]

I will let the experts chime in but from my experience and understanding the high pH you're seeing with your new plaster pool is normal right now. It will take a few months for this to settle down as the water is pulling this from the plaster. Keep lowering with acid and eventually you should notice it to start settling down. I just recently went though the same thing. My pool took close to three months for the pH to begin to settle down.

The rest of your results seem higher than recommended (TA, CH, Salt) but I will leave that to the experts as I'm not sure how the impact of being a brand new pool may have.

 

[jagger2005]

I was just thinking I should test my tap water. It is city, and as far as I know only chlorine, muriatic acid, and stabilizer have been added to pool


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[jagger2005]

Hoping all the muriatic acid I added will knock down the TA some


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[tackettaj]

Testing your tap will give you an idea of where your water started as well as tell you what impact it will have when you must add to your pool. For example I tested my tap water to see what the starting fill water will be in regards to CH.

Your pH reading high is very normal for a new plaster pool. Stay on top of the pH with acid and as your plaster continues to cure it will settle. For the first couple of months my new pool increased pH daily. So much that I was adding 32 ounces of acid almost daily. After about 2 months it settled down and now I only have to add acid about twice a week. I also see an increase because of my spa having a spill over.

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Hoping all the muriatic acid I added will knock down the TA some


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It will take some time but you can lower TA by following the steps here.

Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

 

[pooldv]

You are fighting two things. The SWG aerates the water and causes PH to rise some And if you were using pucks before those lower PH some. And the high-ish TA is also causing it to rise. When PH gets to 7.8 add MA to lower it to 7.2. Doing this repeatedly will lower your TA and PH/TA will eventually reach an equilibrium. Probably around 60-80ppm. Lowering Total Alkalinity

 

[jagger2005]

I just tested my tap water and the CH is 250. That makes sense. After I got my test kit, I tested the pool a couple of days later and it was 250. Any ideas what would make it go to 400? Any methods to control it short of replacing water - maybe just live with it?

Thanks for the link - I will re-read it.

One thing I just remembered. After the pool was filled, they were cutting some flagstone for some deck steps and the dust got into the pool. The PB said it was an organic stain and that he would do a no-drain acid wash and add a local sequestrant to get it out. I assume he did this because the stain is gone. Any way that would have impacted the CH?

 

[tackettaj]

Your water will pull calcium from the new plaster while it continues to cure. My city water started out with CH really low so it gradually increased. Your tap water starting high + new plaster is probably leading to your high CH. The only way I know to lower it is by drain and fill. Others may have a better solve for you.

You do need to keep an eye on your CH. Above recommended levels and you stand the chance of scaling and cloudy water.

 

[tackettaj]

Also, what is your chlorine producing range for your AquaRite SWCG? With my SWCG it turns off automatically for any level above 3500.

 

[jagger2005]

It is producing at 3800. I was worried about that. I need to read manual. I was hoping I could avoid a partial drain and just let the evaporation get it down eventually


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[bkfamily1]

I don't think evaporation will get it down. When the water evaporates, the CH is left behind. Then you add water that brings in more CH with it, and the end result is a higher CH level in the pool.

Do you by chance have a water softener? My outside spigots come straight from the well. But I installed a soft water spigot outside near the pool. So when my CH is high, I top off the poll with soft water to bring it down.

 

[jagger2005]

I was talking about getting the salt down. But you have a good point on CH. Something for me to consider. My house is pre plumb for softener. Guess if I added it I could get a house hose bib re plumbed.


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[bkfamily1]

sorry - my bad - I misread it the first time

 

[singingpond]

It is producing at 3800. I was worried about that. I need to read manual. I was hoping I could avoid a partial drain and just let the evaporation get it down eventually


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Evaporation won't reduce salt levels. Splashout, backwashing the filter, vacuuming to waste - in other words, things that remove water with the salt coming along for the ride - those will reduce levels over time.

 

[jagger2005]

Lol...just like the CH


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[bkfamily1]

If the SWG is running and consuming salt and water is being added without salt won't the evaporation and replacement drive salt down over time?

 

[jagger2005]

I think I read somewhere that when the chlorine is consumed it turns back into salt. These people here are ALOT smarter than me!


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[bkfamily1]

You and me both brother!

 

[jagger2005]

And I guess when water evaporates it leaves the salt in the pool


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[chem geek]

If the SWG is running and consuming salt and water is being added without salt won't the evaporation and replacement drive salt down over time?

You are forgetting what happens when the chlorine that the SWG produces is used/consumed. When chlorine is used/consumed, it reverts back to chloride salt. So there is no salt loss from chlorine generation and usage. There is some small amount of chlorine lost from outgassing and from combining with organics and not fully oxidizing them.

Evaporation only removes water and does not remove salt. So when evaporation lowers the water level the salt concentration goes up (total amount of salt is the same, but it is now in a smaller volume of water). After refill the concentration returns right to where it was (total amount of salt is still the same, but now the amount of water is the same as it was before the evaporation).