new and trying to get rid of green algae that came out of no where

jfpool

0
Jul 18, 2015
23
Huntsville, AL
Two weeks ago my pool started to turn cloudy. I had no idea why b/c it was perfectly clear and the little crappy sticks the store sells said everything looked good. The CYA started to go higher but the store told me not to worry about that. One week (this week) it started to turn green. On Tuesday I found this sight and learned that the two chlorine sources I use are the most likely cause. The pucks add CYA and the powder adds calcium according to the Pool School info. I then realized after looking at your chlorine and CYA chart that I was off the map on acid and that the algae was a result of too much acid causing the chlorine to be ineffective. Also, learned that the initial cloudiness was likely caused by too much calcium from the powdered chlorine.

So I decided to quit listening to the pool store (they told my wife that everyone seems to have the same problem this year and offered now advice) and started to learn from your site. I immediately learned that I needed a proper test kit and got the TF100. I then also started removing water about 1000-1500 gallons at a time. The owner of the pool (I am renting) said the pool is 30k gallons but from taking rudimentary measurements (also after adding my first set of liquid chlorine), I think the pool is actually 20k gallons. After I got the test kit yesterday, I did the initial shock in the afternoon maybe an hour before sunset.

Initial test:
CYA: 55-60 (after 3 water changes of about 1000-1500 gals each)
FC: 6
CC: .5
Cal: 475
PH: 7.5

Based on 55 CYA and 30k gallons, I added 5 gals of liquid chlorine (SMART brand; 10%) to the pool. I also added ~1000 gals to the pool overnight

At night time i tested again:
CYA: 60
FC: 37 (i looked at the calculator and this numbers is consistent with a 16000 gallon pool; but the water was still low so I estimate the pool is 20k)
CC: .5

Tested again this morning (pool is now full):
CYA: 50
FC: 36 (i expected lower since i was still filling the pool and thought the CyA was high enough to start killing algae)
CC: .5
Cal: 325
AK: 180
PH: 7.8

Sorry for the long story but I wanted to make sure I give you a good back ground.

I just would like some smart guys to tell me if I am on the right track. I was a little disappointed that the algae was still a dark green this morning, was hoping for a little more milky look as it dies off. I hope it is just a matter of patience since my CYA was above 100 when I started (according to stick test I didn't get my TF100 until Friday). I have my boys brushing twice a day and skimming when needed.

By the way I bought a Gardena Water Flow Meter, http://www.amazon.com/GARDENA-WATER-TIMER-SMART-METER/dp/B007NHRSOYm on amazon and it was awesome in helping me keep 3 gal/min rate (my well pump fills my tank at 5 gal/min) over night to fill the pool without killing my well pump.

I have attached a image of the pool from this morning before my son brushed it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the forum. :wave:

You are on the right track but misunderstanding just a bit. The algae did not appear out of nowhere....it was lurking where you couldn't see it as your chlorine was too low. Then, it got full strength and burst into view....That's why it's called an algae "bloom"

Secondly, it will clear and you are doing the right things but it's going to take more time than you think so be patient and keep you chlorine up. You are dosing a bit too high. You should be keeping your FC around 24 ppm.

You do not tell us that you are RELIGIOUSLY following the SLAM article in Pool School. Following that to the letter will result in a clear pool......ignoring any aspect of it will prolong your SLAM or result in failure. We'll help....keep us posted
 
The hardest part of the pool $tore habit to kick is the 'put it in and it's fixed' way of thinking. That just isn't true for long term joy. You have to keep putting chlorine in as needed to MAINTAIN the proper FC level until your pool passes the tests. In the beginning, test every 1- 2 hours and dose as needed. Once you stop losing FC between tests, then you can go a little longer between testing and dosing.
 
I have read the SLAM article and using it to try to do this shock. In the past I thought SLAMing was just throwing in three scoops of powder chlorine every week. Therefore, this article has opened my eyes.

One question on the SLAM article.

Do I have to keep the high chlorine level in my case (22) until the water is clear or do I just get it up to 22 and let it fall to normal levels and if still green SLAM again to 22 again (or for whatever corresponds to my CYA at the time it drops to normal levels)?
 
longer answer:
You have to keep putting chlorine in as needed to MAINTAIN the proper FC level until your pool passes the 3 OCLT tests.
In the beginning, test test CL every 1- 2 hours and dose as needed. Once you stop losing FC between CL tests, then you can go a little longer between CL testing and dosing.

- - - Updated - - -

I just realized that I was using test two different ways that weren't obvious to somebody just getting started. Hope the repost made more sense.
 
Do I have to keep the high chlorine level in my case (22) until the water is clear or do I just get it up to 22 and let it fall to normal levels and if still green SLAM again to 22 again (or for whatever corresponds to my CYA at the time it drops to normal levels)?
That's the part that fools most people and the one we have the hardest explaining (we have to get better at that)

In essencw, we want you to keep your FC @ 22 ppm 24/7 until your pool is crystal clear. Of course, that's impossible but we want you to get close by testing and re-dosing.

Bring your FC to 22 or so ppm. About 4 hours later, test again (let's say it tests at 18 ppm) and then add enough chlorine to bring it back to 22----4 ppm.

Keep doing that in ever increasing time period until you are only testing once or twice daily and having to replenish very little....like 3 ppm or so.

This means you have burnt out all the organics and are ready for the OCLT. The OCLT will confirm that you have met the three criteria to stop the SLAM...
1. Your pool water is sparkling and there is no visible algae (dead or alive)
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.

Once you meet those, your SLAM is complete and you let the FC drift down to normal levels. Make sense?
 
...................
Tested again this morning (pool is now full):
CYA: 50
FC: 36 (i expected lower since i was still filling the pool and thought the CyA was high enough to start killing algae)
CC: .5
Cal: 325
AK: 180
PH: 7.8

...........................
Welcome.

Just to be clear, CYA does NOT kill algae. Chlorine at the proper level for you CYA content kills algae.

Dom
 

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Welcome.

Just to be clear, CYA does NOT kill algae. Chlorine at the proper level for you CYA content kills algae.

Dom

Yes, I understand. I just wrote it wrong. I meant to say: the CYA was LOW enough to start killing the algae (given my high chlorine level)

I thought that filling the pool would lower it and the high content of chlorine with the current CYA would allow the chlorine to start working.

I just checked my chlorine again and it fell to 33 so I guess its working, just cannot really see it yet. Just got to be patient I guess.

Thanks though
 
You are on the right track! You are NOT going to believe how clear the pool will be when you get it TFP clear!

I am so glad you found us! Good job having the kids brush the pool!

It is going to take time. I will ask you to do something that will help you SEE the progress. Go take a pic of your steps looking down into the water (do NOT drip your camera!). Now you will take the same pic once a day and share it here. That way we ALL will be able to watch it clear!

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Do you have a light in the pool? If you do please go take it out and sit it on the side of the pool. Use a toothbrush and clean that whole area and leave the light out. That is a MAJOR algae hiding place!

You are renting that place with that wonderful pool??? How sweet is that! LUCKY!

Kim
 
You are on the right track! You are NOT going to believe how clear the pool will be when you get it TFP clear!

I am so glad you found us! Good job having the kids brush the pool!

It is going to take time. I will ask you to do something that will help you SEE the progress. Go take a pic of your steps looking down into the water (do NOT drip your camera!). Now you will take the same pic once a day and share it here. That way we ALL will be able to watch it clear!

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Do you have a light in the pool? If you do please go take it out and sit it on the side of the pool. Use a toothbrush and clean that whole area and leave the light out. That is a MAJOR algae hiding place!

You are renting that place with that wonderful pool??? How sweet is that! LUCKY!

Kim

Since you bring up the pool light...

My breaker keeps tripping. I went to the junction box and found out the main pool light is the cause. I have done some research on how to take a light out and change the bulb. Can ALL pool lights come out while the water is still high? It seems so from the info I have found on this site and you tube. I think the gasket is leaking b/c my son swears that he can see water behind the glass when he swims. I want to take the light out and place on the deck to air dry then test. But since this is my first time, I wanted to make sure ALL lights can come out when the water is high.

Also, any recommendations for a RF light switch and LED color changing bulb that doesn't require a full casing swap?

Thanks for all the help so far. The pool looks little better today. My FC is now 22 from my last check, CYA is 50. I want to get my CYA down between 40-45 with mild water changes overnight.
 
I don't have the 100% certain response on the pool light but I will say yes you should be able to take it out. I had the same concern as you before taking the plunge and pulling our lights out .......also because of an algae issue.

Be careful testing it out of the water though. Those lights are designed to need the cooling of the water. My builder told me never to turn them on unless water was above the lights. I have read on here however that a quick test out of water for a few minutes is ok.
 
jfpool, Welcome. Hope you enjoy the forum. Looks like you've been reading which is nice to see. Some people come in and want all the answers and ignore the information that is provided. Just wanted to say that your chlorine will work more efficiently at night when the sun is off the pool. Two things break chlorine down and they are organics (which you have) and the Sun. Looks like you're on your way though. Good luck and I can't wait to see that mosaic on the bottom of the pool. :cool:
 
When you dose your chlorine, its us ok to shoot high because it will be ate up quickly in the beginning. The key is to keep it above 22. So if you are losing 5-7ppm between tests, make sure you have enough cusion to make it until you can dose again. The longer you stay at shock level the more algae you kill.
 
That's an awesome pool! You've been given great advice so far. Kim's advice on the pictures is excellent. It allows you to celebrate small victories. I also can't stress enough the constant testing and dosing of the FC. I was teaching during my SLAM so whenever I was home, I made sure to test and dose every hour. And when I knew I would be away for a while, I always targeted a little higher, closer to mustard shock level, but never over that.

You can do this and you will be so glad you did!


[emoji176] Lisa P.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
so next hurdle:

Going on vacation for a week on Friday. need advice on what to do before I leave. I don't think this problem will be tackled by Friday, and with the fact that I have to have it at SLAM levels until I get the water clear is not looking good to me.

I was thinking hitting at 25-40% higher than the SLAM level and then have a freind dump two gallons of liquid chlorine in the pool half way through my vacation.

Thoughts/Wisdom?
 

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